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Aequitas
Nov 16, 2009, 10:31 PM
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Hey everyone I am looking for pictures of good and bad gear placements. I have read Climbing Anchors by John Long and have done searches on this site. Everything I have seen so far is spread out across multiple posts and websites. Is there anywhere that has a large collection of pictures of good and bad gear placements? If not I would like to start one here. I know the best way to learn is to go out with a veteran and try it but I would like to learn as much as I can before I go outside.
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scotty1974
Nov 16, 2009, 10:36 PM
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Not to knock Long's book, but Craig Luebben's book is much more comprehensive with better pictures as well. Pick it up, you won't regret it.
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subantz
Nov 16, 2009, 10:42 PM
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This Is a good Idea. I think there should be one on this subject and also a seperate thread for bad placements. You may be on to something here.
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Couloirman
Nov 16, 2009, 11:55 PM
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I need to up my post count, so Ill start:
The rocks were solid(not loose boulders like most of eldo...), perfect expansion range, parallel enough crack. I say its bomber.
(This post was edited by Couloirman on Nov 16, 2009, 11:58 PM)
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acorneau
Nov 17, 2009, 2:08 AM
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Aequitas wrote: Hey everyone I am looking for pictures of good and bad gear placements. I have read Climbing Anchors by John Long and have done searches on this site. Everything I have seen so far is spread out across multiple posts and websites. Is there anywhere that has a large collection of pictures of good and bad gear placements? If not I would like to start one here. I know the best way to learn is to go out with a veteran and try it but I would like to learn as much as I can before I go outside.
I've got boat-loads of pictures that I've ganked off the web, but there's no way in hell I'm uploading all that stuff.
If I can figure out an easy spot to put it all I will. (Hint, hint... recommendations, hint, hint!)
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johnwesely
Nov 17, 2009, 2:24 AM
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caughtinside wrote: coastal_climber wrote: [image]http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v2580/59/74/536168059/n536168059_2326396_5210899.jpg[/image] le sigh.
Textbook bad placement, but maybe that was the point.
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coastal_climber
Nov 17, 2009, 2:42 AM
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caughtinside wrote: coastal_climber wrote: [image]http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v2580/59/74/536168059/n536168059_2326396_5210899.jpg[/image] le sigh.
You'll be disappointed to learn that I didn't place that.
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trafla
Nov 17, 2009, 2:45 AM
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johnwesely wrote: caughtinside wrote: coastal_climber wrote: [image]http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v2580/59/74/536168059/n536168059_2326396_5210899.jpg[/image] le sigh. Textbook bad placement, but maybe that was the point.
Something like that for lead yeh.., but that looks like a ground placement like for a top rope anchor pulling down. I think it's fine for something like that though you could still retract the cam a bit more.
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johnwesely
Nov 17, 2009, 3:03 AM
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trafla wrote: johnwesely wrote: caughtinside wrote: coastal_climber wrote: [image]http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v2580/59/74/536168059/n536168059_2326396_5210899.jpg[/image] le sigh. Textbook bad placement, but maybe that was the point. Something like that for lead yeh.., but that looks like a ground placement like for a top rope anchor pulling down. I think it's fine for something like that though you could still retract the cam a bit more.
The cam retraction is fine. It is the upward flare that will get you as the cam walks up till it is tipped out. I have never had that happen, but the textbook says it can. Hence, textbook bad placement.
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Aequitas
Nov 17, 2009, 3:09 AM
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acorneau wrote: I've got boat-loads of pictures that I've ganked off the web, but there's no way in hell I'm uploading all that stuff. If I can figure out an easy spot to put it all I will. (Hint, hint... recommendations, hint, hint!)
I would be happy to compile a large number of images into something usable. Obviously though they would need descriptions because I can't be trusted to assess the validity of the placement..
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charlie.elverson
Nov 17, 2009, 3:37 AM
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if you have a google account you can upload them all at once to google docs into a single folder then share the entire folder and post the link. make sure to check the box allowing anyone to view the folder.
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currupt4130
Nov 17, 2009, 4:33 AM
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trafla wrote: johnwesely wrote: caughtinside wrote: coastal_climber wrote: [image]http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v2580/59/74/536168059/n536168059_2326396_5210899.jpg[/image] le sigh. Textbook bad placement, but maybe that was the point. Something like that for lead yeh.., but that looks like a ground placement like for a top rope anchor pulling down. I think it's fine for something like that though you could still retract the cam a bit more.
Explain how you would retract the cam more? The crack is pretty damn parallel. As someone else pointed out the problem is the cam walking up and opening and possible tipping out. Just wondering.
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Aequitas
Nov 17, 2009, 4:13 PM
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questionable tricam placement?
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bill413
Nov 17, 2009, 5:17 PM
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Aequitas wrote: [image]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/resized_tricam.jpg[/image] questionable tricam placement?
No, the tricam seems to be placed well. It's the feature it's in that looks very suspect.
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Aequitas
Nov 17, 2009, 5:24 PM
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sorry, should have been more specific, thanks for the clarification
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acorneau
Nov 17, 2009, 6:26 PM
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charlie.elverson wrote: if you have a google account you can upload them all at once to google docs into a single folder then share the entire folder and post the link. make sure to check the box allowing anyone to view the folder.
Ok, I think I have it figured out (maybe). I have uploaded a bunch of pictures here:
http://docs.google.com/...Y0NjM4ZTUw&hl=en
DISCLAIMER:
All these pictures belong to other people. I do not own the rights to them and present them here for personal use only. If I have a picture belonging to you and you want it removed, please send a personal message and I will take it down as soon as possible.
I'll try to put up more as I have time. If you find multiple copies of the same picture, let me know so I can fix it.
(This post was edited by acorneau on Nov 17, 2009, 6:37 PM)
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rockforlife
Nov 17, 2009, 6:29 PM
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I can't seem to get the link to work? Is it just me?
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Aequitas
Nov 17, 2009, 6:33 PM
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I second that the link is not working
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shimanilami
Nov 17, 2009, 6:35 PM
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Aequitas wrote: ... questionable tricam placement ...
That statement is redundant.
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charlie.elverson
Nov 17, 2009, 6:39 PM
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It worked for me after failing once. I'm not signed in to my google account though so that shouldn't be making any difference
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