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chartley
Dec 1, 2009, 4:17 PM
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im looking for a new pair of shoes. i have a pair of galileos im about to get resoled and wanted something that would compliment those. i have been climbing for about a year so my footwork is not that great yet. i mostly boulder but im getting into to sport some. i was thinking of getting a slightly more agressive shoe but ones that i would not wear out too quickly. i tried on the jet7, solutions, and optimus primes the other day. im going to try on some more but i didnt have time earlier. the optimus primes fit the best but ive read a few people say they wear out quickly. any feedback or suggestions?
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sp00ki
Dec 1, 2009, 11:36 PM
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if you go with the primes, be sure you like a rounded toe like that.
a lot of people complained about loss of precision when climbing in areas that hat tiny dime-notch feet, especially when bouldering crimpy areas.
another thing is-- because of the additional rubber around the upper of the shoe, they stretch far less than other evolvs-- know this when you buy them. it's said that the best way to buy them is to bring a pair of broken in shoes and switch them on and off until you find a size that feels the same.
have you checked out the pontas? if you like evolv, they're a really awesome shoe. i actually have a new pair to replace my old ones in my lap right now.
good stuff...
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chartley
Dec 2, 2009, 3:46 AM
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there wasnt much of a wall where i was trying them so it was hard to tell about the rounded toe. i think that might be a problem though because i do climb where there are lots of tiny feet. i want to try the pontas on but i havent been anywhere that has them. i tried on a few more shoes at the gym today. i liked the muira VS and testarossa. i think i rather have velcro than laces for bouldering though. i would probably mostly use my galileos still and use the muiras when i need them.
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rhythm164
Dec 2, 2009, 5:49 AM
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That's a lot of coin to drop if your footwork isn't great. None of those shoes you mentioned are beginner shoes, and besides not being able to really use a shoe as specialized as a Miura VS or a Testarossa, you're going to destroy them. Are you climbing mostly in the gym, or outside or what. You may want to consider something of a more milage based shoe if you're trying to improve your footwork. I see a lot of people roaming around the gym in their 150 dollar shoes falling off basically everything they get on. Whereas if you focus on improving technique you're going to get waaaay more out of it. I use a pair of totally blasted pair of 5.10 Mocs in the gym, and at times outdoor as well, and once they break in, they are an awesome shoe that will stand up to alot of abuse. I'm not saying I don't have a couple other pairs that I use for different stuff/areas, but don't fall into the trap of thinking expensive shoes are a substitute for technique. Think as well about where you're climbing outdoors, what kind of rock and such. For example, I feel like my Sportivas are great on limestone, but fall short on the granite in Tahoe; where 5.10's shine. One more thing to think about concerning the Muira VS, half the crew i climb with bought this shoe, myself included, and found that the velcro straps where less than structurally sound. Just something to keep in mind. Anyways, if i were you, i'd start reading some of the reviews on this site, it'll become readily apparent what works and what doesn't. Good luck!
cheers,
A
(This post was edited by rhythm164 on Dec 2, 2009, 5:52 AM)
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Myxomatosis
Dec 2, 2009, 6:36 AM
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If your going to get a pair of Gal's resoled you might as well splash out on a real nice pair for outdoors and use your Gal's at the gym. This is what I normally do.
So in saying that... my 5.10 Dragons are probably the best shoes for any edging or small footholds Ive come across.
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chartley
Dec 2, 2009, 7:22 AM
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one person saying spend less and one saying spend a lot. i wouldnt be using this shoe as my main shoe. i would try to just use it when i need something more agressive. i wasnt really thinking about the miuras at first because of the price but they are on sale so it doesnt matter much to me now. i dont want to buy a shoe i havent tried on and i havent seen the dragons at the few places ive been.
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Myxomatosis
Dec 2, 2009, 7:37 AM
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chartley wrote: one person saying spend less and one saying spend a lot. i wouldnt be using this shoe as my main shoe. i would try to just use it when i need something more agressive. i wasnt really thinking about the miuras at first because of the price but they are on sale so it doesnt matter much to me now. i dont want to buy a shoe i havent tried on and i havent seen the dragons at the few places ive been.
Dragons are great but you really need to fit the right size to buy them, they are very tight.
If you got the money to spend on a pair of good shoes, then go hard. you already have a cheap pair.
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rhythm164
Dec 2, 2009, 3:07 PM
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Spend whatever you like, it just doesn't make sense to me to drop a ton of cash on fancy shoes that sloppy footwork is going to destroy in short order. That being said, you already dropped a good chunk of cash on the Galieos (which I would really consider "cheap"shoes, those things rock, and they're expensive), so spending an extra 15 dollars on Miuras wouldn't really be a stretch. And actually, when I got my first pair (5.10 Spires) to my first good pair (Sportiva Katanas) my footwork got a lot better because I didn't want my new 120 shoes to suffer the same fate as my 40 dollar Spires. I guess if money is no object, head out as try on as many as possible. If there's no where nearby that stocks what you're into, Zappos has a pretty good selection, AND they do free shipping back and forth so you can dial in size.
cheers,
A
(This post was edited by rhythm164 on Dec 2, 2009, 3:08 PM)
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lemon_boy
Dec 2, 2009, 3:57 PM
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chartley, i climb primarily in galileos and find them to be the best shoe i have ever worn. they consistently perform well on all terrain. the only times i wear something else are when i am doing a sustained offwidth (old high top 5.10 altias) or desert thin hands cracks (pair of slippers that let my toes lay more flat).
i would do as one of the guys above said - buy a new pair of galileos for outside, and use your old re-soled pair in the gym.
and work on your footwork...
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lena_chita
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Dec 2, 2009, 5:00 PM
Post #10 of 11
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I personally think that after a year of climbing, and with self-admitted less-that-stellar footwork, you don't need different shoes for different terrain.
If you like galileo and they fit you well, get another pair of them to wear while the old ones are geting respoled, and then maybe climb in the old pair in the gym and save the new pair for outside...
Of course, you can pick up a different model, any of the ones you mentioned, whatever fits you best. nothing wrong with that.
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