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alpinelynx


Dec 6, 2002, 5:27 PM
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making aiders
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Since I am cheap (okay, poor) I was thinking of making my own aiders, rather than shelling out money. I can either a) tie them or b) sew them.

any other ideas/opinions about this? should I just weasle handmedowns or tap for change at the local market?

thanks!


brianthew


Dec 6, 2002, 5:38 PM
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You can certainly tie your own from flat webbing. But as I found out, they don't come close to commercially made ones...the roll-your-own variety tend to be harder to use, as the steps tend to shut themselves and such.

But I'm sure it's completely possible to make a good set of aiders....just I've never tried it.


apollodorus


Dec 6, 2002, 6:49 PM
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Use flat, not tubular webbing. It's stiffer, and the foot loops stay open better.

To get started tying aiders, put the two ends of the webbing flat together, pull one about a foot past the other and fold it over like this:

-----------------
| ---------------------------
-------------------------------

Tie an overhand knot in the three strips (Frost knot) so that you have a loop at the top to clip into.

Pull a step-width of webbing out to one side and tie an overhand. Pull a step to the other side and tie another overhand. Keep doing this until you get to the last step, which is just a loop at the bottom.

Don't crank on the knots until you get them all adjusted.


twrock


Dec 6, 2002, 10:23 PM
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If you have a sewing machine that'll do a zigzag stitch, you can sew 'em and you won't have the bulk or pain of the knots. I have some fairly detailed instructions in a MSWord file for 4, 5, or 6 step traditional designed aiders. PM me with your e-mail address if you want them.

BTW, I used my home-made aiders for my first big wall, so they will work.

[ This Message was edited by: twrock on 2002-12-06 22:24 ]


full-time-climb
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Dec 7, 2002, 4:05 PM
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I have tied sevral pairs. I often give them to people for a second set when using two sets to climb on. A couple of things I have found helpful are:
1-Go to your local auto supply store and get some clear plastic gas line and cut it into 6 or 8 inch lengths and put one of these on the long side of the webbing. This is the spot that goes under your foot. This will hold the loop open and support your foot. It will also reduce the wear on the webbing.
2-Tie the overhand knot with enough webbing on the step length of webbing so that when your foot is in the knot is slightly above your foot. This way the knot does not press into the side of your foot. I believe the two lengths that I tie the overhand knot at is about 9 and 17 inches for each step.
3-Slip a short piece of webbing over the main webbing at the very top loop where your biner will attach to act as a double thickness to reduce wear.
4-Use a different color of webbing for each one you tie.
Hope this helps. I am now using the Metolius speed aiders.
L8r
John

[ This Message was edited by: full-time-climb on 2002-12-07 16:06 ]


alpinelynx


Dec 7, 2002, 6:20 PM
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Hey thanks you guys! I definitly got info I hadn't considered. I will let you know how this pans out.. wish me luck


passthepitonspete


Dec 8, 2002, 5:29 PM
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You will need us all to wish you "good luck" if you tie up a set of aiders using knots.

The knots will hang up in cracks and drive you crazy!

If you are an aid climber, then you should either be handy with a sewing machine [like Jason "Singer" Smith] or else you should be very good friends with your shoe repairman in your local mall who does all your sewing and repairs for you.

I think sewing up a set of aiders in the configuration of the Yates Wall Ladders might be an OK way, but the Better Way is to save your pennies and buy a pair of Russian Aiders!

Your aiders [along with your adjustable daisies and adjustable fifi] are used in every single move you make.

When there is a device available like Russian Aiders which extends your reach by a frickin' FOOT on each and every placement [that's like 0.3048 m, eh?] then why the HAIL would you waste your time, money and effort on anything else??

Think about it.....


alpinelynx


Dec 9, 2002, 11:00 AM
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Hung up in cracks you say, eh? what a pain. I will consider your words, master piton man.


evanmfreeman


Dec 9, 2002, 5:41 PM
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better yet, make your own russian aiders, as i'm in the process of doing. my biggest problem is finding good, strong rings...

any suggestions?


twrock


Dec 9, 2002, 11:04 PM
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Quote:then why the HAIL would you waste your time, money and effort on anything else??
Now Pete, don't go and bust a blood vessel over this. I have no doubt that Russian aiders are currently the very best thing going, but there are a few other factors to consider. And according to one "expert" on such things, up until a few months ago he was using traditional aiders and had even gotten up an El Cap A5 or two with them.

The total cost of materials for a pair of "traditional" aiders is very small. The manufacturing time is "reasonable". And obviously they do work. (I would agree that "ladder style" aiders are preferable over the "traditional" design; but I can't offer instructions for those.)

The cost of Russian aiders (if you can find them) is much higher. If you want to make your own to save money, the materials cost is also much higher. Manufacturing them is much more complicated. And I don't know of anyone who is giving away a set of detailed instructions on how to make them (well, there was that one person who wrote up how to tie your own...).

For a "first taste" of aid climbing, it is not unreasonable to use traditional aiders. And even if you later move onto other style aiders, it wouldn't it be unreasonable to keep the old one's around for backup. They certainly are light and tight to pack.


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