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go_dyno
Dec 28, 2009, 6:29 AM
Post #1 of 9
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Registered: May 8, 2005
Posts: 193
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I'm an ice climber. I have a buddy from China who is an alpinist. He is an endurance athlete and has climbed everything from Denali, Ranier, Whitaker to several peaks in the Himalayas & South America that are prestigious, but we are in Ouray and I have discovered that (believe it or not) he has never had any rope experience. I had to teach him how to "tie in" to a rope and how to belay! Friggin crazy!!!!!!
His harness is a minimalist alpine bod that is way too big for him.
Not knowing why you would want a "BOD" harness. Do I look for a Bod harness that is better fitting and more versatile, or do I find a Bod harness that fits him and convince him to get both a Bod & a ICE harness or do I convince him to get a good ice harness & tell him to use it for both ice & alpinism ????
Personally I think if I was doing Alpinism I would want a harness that had a full strength haul loop and was adjustable for different clothing, i.e. two buckles in front and belay loop & full strength haul loop with gear loops, buuuuuuuut I'm not a minimalist alpinist and don't know the latest gear philosophy for that. I do know that I need to get him up to snuff on fundamental rope skills and self rescue and crevasse rescue and a wee bod harness doesn't seem to be enough. Help me save his skinny China ass! Thanks!
(This post was edited by go_dyno on Dec 28, 2009, 6:30 AM)
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uni_jim
Dec 28, 2009, 6:48 AM
Post #3 of 9
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Registered: Mar 27, 2008
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I am a fan of petzl harnesses, I have a SAMA, and wear it for everything (rock, ice, alpine, gym, whatever), but if I thouht I REALLY needed adjustable leg loops, I would get the ADJAMA from petzl. I Like the fixed leg loops though, I just have to put my harness on before my crampons, not a big deal to me.
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cantbuymefriends
Dec 28, 2009, 10:35 AM
Post #4 of 9
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Registered: Aug 28, 2003
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What's the problem with the Bod?
I have a Regular (not the Alpine) Bod that I use for ice, and the little alpine climbing that I do, and i think it's awesome. When you have to adjust your clothing for anything between maybe -20C to +10C, I find that other harnesses with "regular" adjustable leg loops just don't cut it.
Just my 2 cents.
FWIW, my Bod is the pre-belay-loop model, with 4 gear loops and fleece-padded belt.
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lumineferusother
Dec 28, 2009, 3:19 PM
Post #5 of 9
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Registered: Jul 4, 2005
Posts: 118
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While you're at it, have him invest in some basic Alpine/rock climbing classes. It's not only sad, it's outright dangerous and rather stupid to be not able to do something as simple as tying into a harness....
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midwestpaul
Dec 28, 2009, 6:44 PM
Post #6 of 9
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Registered: Jul 16, 2006
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The advantage of a bod harness is that it fits well underneath a hip belt and packs small. It is more appropriate for less technical glacier routes where the rope is mostly used for crevasse safety and simulclimbing, than high-angle, technical alpine routes where you would want belay/haul loops, etc.
That said, I've seen people use bod harnesses for all types of climbing. As long as he won't pop out of it if he flips upside down he is probably good to go. Also, you need to make sure is he belaying off the loop that says "belay here" or if the harness doesn't have one of those, that the belay locker is clipped through the waist and the leg loops and NOT clipped to the tie-in loop on the rope which could unravel the figure-eight in a high-load (lead fall) situation.
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kheegster
Dec 28, 2009, 10:01 PM
Post #7 of 9
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Registered: May 14, 2009
Posts: 30
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When I am looking for a harness for alpine/ice, the main factors are:
- lightweight
- packable
- releasable leg loops (front AND back)
- fits under backpack
Other factors that one would look for in a normal harness that aren't so important for an alpine harness:
- comfort: clothing will provide padding, and anyway one shouldn't hangdog or take big whippers on ice
- number of gear loops: I attach ice clippers to rack screws, so I only need 2 gear loops.
I current use a Mammut Alpine Light harness that fit all the criteria above. I was also considering the Arc'teryx A300a, but this is considerably more expensive.
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tomcat
Dec 29, 2009, 12:38 AM
Post #8 of 9
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Registered: Sep 15, 2006
Posts: 325
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I've used BODs a lot.The advantage is the leg loops drop out,so if you put your crampons on first for some easy ground,or want to drop the harness,but not the poons,you can.They work just fine.
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go_dyno
Jan 2, 2010, 9:58 PM
Post #9 of 9
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Registered: May 8, 2005
Posts: 193
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Thanks
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