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Nero2
Dec 28, 2009, 3:18 AM
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Hey, I've been reading up about climbing and I cant seem to find much info on Roped Solo climbing. Does anyone know of any articles or videos on how exactly this is done? My main curiosity is how you attach yourself to the anchor. I see mention of a self belaying device and so on, but how does this all work, particularly on a multi pitch cliff where you cant anchor the rope at the bottom.
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zeth01
Dec 28, 2009, 3:39 AM
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ill say it before anyone else does. if you have to ask then you're not ready to know. That being said I dont think theres much info on this anywhere other than random threads here. If you look up the instructions on how to use a soloist you may gain a better understanding.
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Nero2
Dec 28, 2009, 3:45 AM
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I'm not ready to know? Why is that? I know I'm new to outdoor rock climbing and I dont plan on any roped solo climbing before I'm ready for it, but I am curious. Knowledge never hurt anyone.
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zeth01
Dec 28, 2009, 3:47 AM
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it's jus tone of those thing you have to learn on your own. and like i said look at the pdf for the soloist. that should tell you what you want to know more or less
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rgold
Dec 28, 2009, 4:10 AM
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One place to start is by reading the manual for the Silent Partner, which is probably the best (and also most expensive) device for roped soloing. (And may not be available any more?)
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shockabuku
Dec 28, 2009, 4:19 AM
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Why do you think it may not be available any more?
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rgold
Dec 28, 2009, 4:31 AM
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Wren sold it to Rock Exotica, which doesn't list it as a product on its web site. But the stores seem to have them (I should have checked that first) so I guess they're still around.
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shockabuku
Dec 28, 2009, 4:53 AM
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Strange.
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dead_horse_flats
Dec 28, 2009, 5:05 AM
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What ever method you go with, practice it several times on something small first to make sure you have the setup correct.
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vegastradguy
Dec 28, 2009, 5:35 AM
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Nero2 wrote: I'm not ready to know? Why is that? I know I'm new to outdoor rock climbing and I dont plan on any roped solo climbing before I'm ready for it, but I am curious. Knowledge never hurt anyone. its not so much that you're not ready because you're new- its more because the systems involved and the inherent knowledge needed usually comes with time and understanding of more basic systems- folks who are very new to the sport will often become overwhelmed with basic systems (anchoring, rappelling, etc, etc)- and the combination of these systems as well as using them in specialized ways like rope soloing is generally just too much information. that said, i will say that roped soloing always requires an anchor at the bottom, and this can manifest in a variety of ways depending on the options available- which again comes with time and experience. the basic procedure is to anchor at the bottom, climb the pitch, anchor at the top, rappel (and clean), remove the bottom anchor, ascend the pitch (either via the rope or climb it again, depending on preference), and repeat. the rest of it, honestly, is much better explained in person by someone who understands it and knows your experience well enough to explain it to you properly. finally- roped soloing is one of those things that alot of experience and knowledge is necessary to do well and safely. even if you understand the basics of it, there are many subtle complexities that make it not for the inexperienced. go out, learn, understand, and be safe.
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dan2see
Dec 28, 2009, 5:36 AM
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dead_horse_flats wrote: What ever method you go with, practice it several times on something small first to make sure you have the setup correct. Yes. "Something small" also means "close to the ground". My first effort at rope-solo was top-rope from my bedroom to my living-room. My bed was the top anchor. But it's on wheels, so it was a "Don't Fall" situation. Then I tried leading the same route. So I did try some easy routes at the crag. Gotta say I found a lot of ways to commit careless mistakes. But I have confidence in my set-up. But I won't do this for curiosity -- there's gotta be a good reason.
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skiclimb
Dec 28, 2009, 5:37 AM
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bleh
(This post was edited by skiclimb on Dec 28, 2009, 5:41 AM)
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uni_jim
Dec 28, 2009, 6:54 AM
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rgold wrote: One place to start is by reading the manual for the Silent Partner, which is probably the best (and also most expensive) device for roped soloing. (And may not be available any more?) I use a soloist, used to use a clove hitch. Many rope soloists out there, and many options exist for a belay device, but he entie system is still set up in much the same manner. Here is the Soloist manual for comparison. http://www.mtntools.com/...es/soloistmanual.pdf
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Nero2
Dec 28, 2009, 8:44 AM
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In reply to: its not so much that you're not ready because you're new- its more because the systems involved and the inherent knowledge needed usually comes with time and understanding of more basic systems- folks who are very new to the sport will often become overwhelmed with basic systems (anchoring, rappelling, etc, etc)- While I havent done much outdoor climbing, I am not starting out blank. Im familiar with how rapelling works, how ATCs work and how grigris work and so on. My experience is mostly with rappelling rather than climbing though.
In reply to: finally- roped soloing is one of those things that alot of experience and knowledge is necessary to do well and safely. even if you understand the basics of it, there are many subtle complexities that make it not for the inexperienced. go out, learn, understand, and be safe. Thanks for the info. I've got a couple of friends who are into climbing and I'll be going with them. Im not sure if they've ever done any roped solo though, and my curiosity has been bugging me ever since I looked into it.
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dugl33
Dec 28, 2009, 6:59 PM
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The fact that this thread is in the beginners section is troubling. The point being made about this being an advanced technique isn't trying to put you down or be arrogant, it's just that you want to be otherwise very solid with your skills before trying it. I would say for example leading multi-pitch trad for several years is a good start. Having a little aid experience wouldn't hurt. You're skipping from algebra to calculus with very little trig. Make sure your affairs are in order.
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healyje
Dec 28, 2009, 9:15 PM
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First up, moderators should move this out of the Beginners forum. Nero2, curiosity isn't necessarily a bad thing, but in the case of roped soloing you're talking about conjoining non-standard use of equipment with a high level of skills, experience, and judgment. Also, sport rappelling isn't climbing anymore than caving is even though both use much of the same equipment. Rappelling is a narrow and highly bounded interaction with equipment which doesn't provide enough relevant interaction with rock or gravity to substitute for climbing experience. The concerns expressed here are of the "curiosity killed the cat" variety. If you really are curious, then I'd say become a climber and give it a go after you've bagged enough yardage over stone to develop the necessary competence, experience, and judgment
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