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braaaaaaaadley
Dec 9, 2002, 6:32 PM
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first i must say cool site!!
I have been climbing off and on for the past five years. I have led a couple of indoor routes, and i have led once outdoors. I feel confident that I am a safe climber. My question to you is do you feel that it would be dangerous(or smart) if I were to lead easier sport routes with friends that have a simmilar expierence to me rather than with some hard core professors i usually climb with(and let lead)? I have all of the gear, but have had no opportunity to use it. The climbes are totally bolted and relatively short. Any thoughts appreciated!!
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braaaaaaaadley
Dec 9, 2002, 6:35 PM
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sorry about the double post!! It makes me mad when it does that!
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nikegirl
Dec 9, 2002, 6:44 PM
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naw...all fixed.
we all did it once.
Welcome to our family and community
enjoy the site.
T
~T
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on_the_bum_again
Dec 9, 2002, 7:27 PM
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You have to start sometime. If you have someone you can trust absolutely to provide a solid lead belay, then go for it. If you need to build some confidence for the lead, TR it first (if this is an option). Work out the moves on TR then redpoint the sucker, or if you're really bold try some onsight leads that are within your range.
Don't forget to breathe!
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orangekyak
Dec 9, 2002, 7:33 PM
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My conservative side says that if you are not sure, then you should not do it.
But my frosted side reminds me that I was teaching others to lead after fewer than 10 leads myself. I considered it safe at the time because we were on easier terrain than our max ability level.
But you have got to know you're ready to teach others before you take on that responsibility.
One of my greatest joys in climbing is bringing others into the sport and watching them grow. When you are ready you might also find it to be very rewarding. If you are not sure, then maybe you'll want to make it your goal to be sure.
Sorry for the vagueness, I think you just have to know.
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braaaaaaaadley
Dec 9, 2002, 7:49 PM
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Here's what I was REALLY getting at... my professors don't have a lot of time to climb anymore since school is in full swing meaning we don't have anyone to lead the climb's. My current ability is i have trouble climbing 5.10's, can climb some 5.9's and can easily clim 5.7's(like the one I walked up the other day at the New River Gorge). I was thinking about leading a 5.6-5.7 so we could go climbing on our own terms.
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jt512
Dec 9, 2002, 8:03 PM
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The issue is not how hard you climb. 5.6, 5.7, 5.10, 5.12, it doesn't matter. What is important is whether you understand how to safely clip, thread anchors, lower, downclimb, rappel, communcicate with your partner, etc. The fact that you have to ask us whether you are ready to lead climb unsupervised, suggests that you're not.
-Jay
[ This Message was edited by: jt512 on 2002-12-09 12:04 ]
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cracklover
Dec 9, 2002, 8:17 PM
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My advice: bribe, beg, or otherwise curry favor with one of the "hard-core" professors who know what they're doing. Offer to buy dinner, perform sexual services, whatever. Have him or her spend the whole day following your leads and critiquing them. After that, you should have a more appropriate sense of whether you're read to lead outside on your own.
Edited to add: By the way, you didn't mention how much of your four years of climbing experience has been indoors vs outdoors. Don't think that gym climbing makes you qualified to climb outside - it doesn't. In a gym, they are responsible for creating a safe environment. Outdoors, you are responsible for the beginner you take out. Whether you're toproping or leading, you're responsible for making sure they know what they're doing, and that you've set up the anchors correctly. Even if you do, there may be things that happen which are beyond your control to prevent. Climbing outdoors can go from fun in the sun to a nightmare faster than you can say "Holy sh*t!"
GO
[ This Message was edited by: cracklover on 2002-12-09 12:34 ]
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galt
Dec 9, 2002, 8:30 PM
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You have to start somewhere, right? If you can CONFIDENTLY and SAFLY lead indoors then go for it! I'm not saying indoor climbing is anything like outdoor, but the concepts are still there. I'm weary to suggest this because of your lack of confidence, but if you think you can do it... man go for it! (not one person here can say that they have not climbed something before they should have. ie. doing a climb out of their league, even if it was un-safe.)
My one suggestion is climb a familiar route. Top Rope it a few times to get familiar with it. Go through all the motions when TRing it. Only climb where you would climb if you were clipping. Heck if you have an extra rope tie that on to you as well and use it to practice. Have a buddy on the ground tell you if you clips are ok. Climb it a few times TRing it, then lead the sucker.
If you're worried about someone seeing and laughing at you then tell them your predicament. Odds are you've just found your "Pro-Climber" you were looking for.
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col_sanderz
Dec 9, 2002, 9:05 PM
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Do you know how to set up a top rope anchor properly?? If so and you have two ropes and three people, I suggest doing the lead with a belayer as usual but have a top rope backup. This way, you can get people a feel for climbing and belaying lead with the safety of top ropin. This is the way I teach people to do it.
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drector
Dec 9, 2002, 9:17 PM
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You need 2 things to take your first lead; A belayer who will not drop you even if he/she is yanked off their feet and into the wall (Best to anchor him/her), and the nerve/desire/confidence/ability to go for it.
My first lead was with a partner who had the same experience and I did. I went right for a trad lead.
It just comes down to a single knowledge that you are ready. If you have any reasonable doubts (we all get scared) then wait until the moment and the belay are right. Don't do anything stupid and don't rely on gym experience. Don't be afrair to back-down either. Leading is scary.
Dave
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braaaaaaaadley
Dec 9, 2002, 9:29 PM
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Cracklover... This fall i have climbed at the "local crag" about once a week. I am very farmiliar with toproping. The problem witht this particular crag is that there is no way to access the "top" b/c there is an overhang at the top with some sketchey loose stuff. Instead you have to lead it clip off on the two o rings bolted near the top, and then repel down. I am farmiliar with sport leading but I have only done that in the gym. So I guess the general consensus is go over it with the p dogs before risking it.
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cracklover
Dec 9, 2002, 10:21 PM
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Excellent. And if the professor you usually go with blows you off - look elsewhere. Don't be afraid to be a partner slut - just be safe. And have fun!
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rocknpowda
Dec 9, 2002, 11:05 PM
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JUST DO IT!
it sounds like you've gone with experienced people before and even lead under thier supervision; that's more training than alot of people ever had when they started lead climbing.
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