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TheProducer
Jan 21, 2010, 11:19 PM
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Hey, I was just wondering has any one tried this/think it'll work. say your bouldering up a straight cliff, could you put a cam in the crack and use a quickdraw and clip the cam onto your harnesses and it'll work as a holder for you so you can rest and go higher? i dont know just something i thought of! BRING ON THE FEED BACK!!!!
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Colinhoglund
Jan 21, 2010, 11:33 PM
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With proper placement skills a cam will hold your static weight, ie. it will hold a fall to  .
My question is why would you? Either go for it and take a fall if you fail, or toprope it till your confident. The holy grail of climbing is the free ascent, and the best expression of that is the flash, why hang and ruin that?
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TheProducer
Jan 21, 2010, 11:45 PM
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your completely right! only problem is i dont have enough equipment yet to top rope it or get a crash pad. if i had a crash pad i would defiantly just free climb high as hell. but i also thought it would be cool to be able to take a breather up the cliff you know? just clip in a cam and rest a bit then continue haha.
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spacemonkey07
Jan 21, 2010, 11:54 PM
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maybe you invented a new sport?
if I were you I'd call it cam climbing
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sungam
Jan 22, 2010, 12:20 AM
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Goddammit Mike, isn't printing off the complete webster dictionary doing it for you anymore? Or did sweaty librarian find you out?
Pure spiritual karma braham.
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johnwesely
Jan 22, 2010, 12:30 AM
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TheProducer wrote: Hey, I was just wondering has any one tried this/think it'll work. say your bouldering up a straight cliff, could you put a cam in the crack and use a quickdraw and clip the cam onto your harnesses and it'll work as a holder for you so you can rest and go higher? i dont know just something i thought of! BRING ON THE FEED BACK!!!!
That is a great idea Mr. Troll.
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shockabuku
Jan 22, 2010, 2:17 PM
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TheProducer wrote: Hey, I was just wondering has any one tried this/think it'll work. say your bouldering up a straight cliff, could you put a cam in the crack and use a quickdraw and clip the cam onto your harnesses and it'll work as a holder for you so you can rest and go higher? i dont know just something i thought of! BRING ON THE FEED BACK!!!!
The likelihood of disaster in this endeavor approaches unity.
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coolcat83
Jan 22, 2010, 2:32 PM
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well since you'd want to do more than one route you'll need a set of cams, biners, slings....or with less money you could get a rope, slings, some lockers, and a crash pad.
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qtm
Jan 22, 2010, 2:44 PM
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TheProducer wrote: Hey, I was just wondering has any one tried this/think it'll work. say your bouldering up a straight cliff, could you put a cam in the crack and use a quickdraw and clip the cam onto your harnesses and it'll work as a holder for you so you can rest and go higher? i dont know just something i thought of! BRING ON THE FEED BACK!!!!
Pretty bad idea. Here's why.
You have to know how to place gear. It's not rocket surgery, but you shouldn't go trusting your life to a piece of gear you don't know how to use.
It's one piece of gear. It's pretty foolish to trust your life to a single piece of gear.
Unless it's a splitter, you don't know what size cam you're going to need. So buying a single cam won't help you very much.
Unless the piece is set perfectly, it's going to move when you weight it. Which could cause it to pop out. Any movement could cause it to shift and pop out. It might be ok while you're hanging, but as you stand to get ready to climb, it could pop out.
Because you're using a quickdraw, if you fall, you're going to put very high forces on the piece. The reason we can fall on trad gear is that the dynamic climbing rope stretches and "absorbs" some of the force. The draw isn't going to do the same, and you could generate enough force to break the piece or rip it out of the wall.
Maybe it'll be fine the first couple of times, because you're being very careful about setting, weighting, and climbing past. But at some point, you're gonna be pumped, gonna put in a crappy placement, start climbing without unclipping... and the result is not going to be pretty.
Invest in a pad or buy a TR kit.
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kachoong
Jan 22, 2010, 2:57 PM
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So you want to boulder wearing a harness? Why not just wait until you have the experience and balls to climb it without the cam?
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dugl33
Jan 22, 2010, 5:20 PM
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I've seen several climbers, no doubt more experienced than you, pull gear by resting on it. The problem is basically that you'll end up weighting the piece at waist height, which will lever it up, and then fair odds its gonna pop.
So, now, instead of falling with some measure of control, you're flying back first and out of control toward the ground.
Save the 60 bucks your gonna spend on a cam, and you're half way to a pad, or boulder with some friends who have one already...
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rockforlife
Jan 22, 2010, 7:03 PM
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Colinhoglund wrote: With proper placement skills a cam will hold your static weight, ie. it will hold a fall to . My question is why would you? Either go for it and take a fall if you fail, or toprope it till your confident. The holy grail of climbing is the free ascent, and the best expression of that is the flash onsite, why hang and ruin that?
fixed
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jtgb1966
Jan 22, 2010, 7:15 PM
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dugl33 wrote: Save the 60 bucks your gonna spend on a cam, and you're half way to a pad, or boulder with some friends who have one already...
+1 - offer to drive, spot, bring along some munchies or a few brews, don't be a jerk, and the most you'll need to get you going is a decent pair of shoes and some chalk.
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shimanilami
Jan 22, 2010, 7:49 PM
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You are either an idiot or a troll.
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dynosore
Jan 22, 2010, 8:08 PM
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shimanilami wrote: You are either an idiot or a troll.
Don't rule out the possibility that he's both.
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TheProducer
Jan 22, 2010, 8:12 PM
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you guessed wrong dumbass
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TheProducer
Jan 22, 2010, 8:18 PM
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Thanks for the few good responses and no thanks to all the negative comments/responses.
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bill413
Jan 22, 2010, 11:52 PM
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TheProducer wrote: Thanks for the few good responses and no thanks to all the negative comments/responses.
What part of:
OP wrote: BRING ON THE FEED BACK!!!!
were you unclear on?
qtm's response was tremendous.
The "negative comments" were pretty reasonable for the question...and pretty tame.
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nattfodd
Jan 23, 2010, 9:09 AM
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shimanilami wrote: You are either an idiot or a troll.
I think he's a genius: he just invented multi-pitch bouldering!
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i_h8_choss
Jan 23, 2010, 9:50 AM
Post #21 of 64
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TheProducer wrote: you guessed wrong dumbass
dude if you're going to go bouldering w/ a cam, you're the dumbass
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shockabuku
Jan 23, 2010, 10:25 AM
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TheProducer wrote: Thanks for the few good responses and no thanks to all the negative comments/responses.
You're welcome.
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joeforte
Jan 23, 2010, 12:29 PM
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dugl33 wrote: I've seen several climbers, no doubt more experienced than you, pull gear by resting on it. The problem is basically that you'll end up weighting the piece at waist height, which will lever it up, and then fair odds its gonna pop. So, now, instead of falling with some measure of control, you're flying back first and out of control toward the ground. Save the 60 bucks your gonna spend on a cam, and you're half way to a pad, or boulder with some friends who have one already...
I have also witnessed people trying to rest on gear, and instead popped the piece because they pulled outward on it accidentally. I think resting on gear is a bad idea. You're better off trying to climb it out, and if you do end up falling, the piece will be more likely to hold because the pull will be in the correct direction (down).
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Adk
Jan 23, 2010, 12:59 PM
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I would advise against it.
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northfacejmb
Jan 23, 2010, 3:32 PM
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Cheap harness- $40
Two lockers- $16
Draw or sling- $4
One cam- $60
Total- $120
Cheap Crash pad- $110
Using you're money on the correct gear- Priceless
(This post was edited by northfacejmb on Jan 23, 2010, 3:33 PM)
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