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pspoulin
Jan 15, 2010, 6:39 AM
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Registered: May 8, 2009
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rtwilli4
Jan 15, 2010, 3:46 PM
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Dude you are on the wrong side of Thailand!
No, actually the boulders there are great but it is so damn HOT!
Come to Phi Phi and climb... http://www.catclimbingshop.com
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phang_nga
Feb 2, 2010, 11:52 AM
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Dude, unless you like crowds, bad service, being over-charged, hassled, etc...stay where you are. The rocks are no hotter there than in Phi Phi or Krabi.
Personally, I can't stand Phi Phi or Krabi, especially when there's limitless climbing to be had elsewhere. I don't doing the exact same thing that hundreds of other climbers do... but that's me. 
Go to Ko Yao Noi in Phang Nga Bay if you do come to this side. There are tons of nice routes and no crowds.
Good luck finding a climbing partner. Let us know how it goes.
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rtwilli4
Feb 2, 2010, 1:39 PM
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Of course they are crowded and overpriced... they were developed and became famous almost two decades ago. In the case of Phi Phi it was OVER two decades ago. Add the fact that they are in a beautiful, easily accessible setting in one of the most visited countries in the world and you have the craziness that is southern Thailand.
Koh Tao is no better. At least here on Phi Phi there is a local Thai community.
PS the TAT is currently assessing the safety of the climbing on the Phranang Peninsula because of all of the un-liscenced climbing shops that have been dropping people this year. There is serious talk of closing the park to climbers.
If you want Koh Yao Noi to stay the way it is, then you shouldn't mention it on the internet.
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phang_nga
Feb 4, 2010, 10:38 AM
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rtwilli4 wrote: PS the TAT is currently assessing the safety of the climbing on the Phranang Peninsula because of all of the un-liscenced climbing shops that have been dropping people this year. There is serious talk of closing the park to climbers. If you want Koh Yao Noi to stay the way it is, then you shouldn't mention it on the internet.
The TAT couldn't pour piss out of a boot if the instructions were on the heel. There's very little chance that the TAT has enough influence in Krabi to do anything of this magnitude. They 'talk' a lot more than they 'do'.
Ko Yao Noi and various other islands in the bay don't get hardly any climbers. I wouldn't mind it staying that way... though I also don't mind telling a few folks about it... hoping it won't get flooded with climbers. It's not as convenient, so I don't think it's going to get messed up as quickly as Krabi go that way. I lived in Ao Nang in the early '90s. I can't believe what a mess that place has turned into. Railay and Tonsai are a mess too, in my opinion, but not as bad... purely by the fact that the area is limited in size for potential growth.
Anyway, there are quite a few nice videos on YouTube about Ko Tao. I haven't climbed there yet, but after seeing some of these, I'm interested.
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rtwilli4
Feb 4, 2010, 2:05 PM
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The bouldering is good but like a lot of tropical areas, it needs a bit of traffic to keep it that way. I had a hard time finding some areas when I was alone and the jungle has taken over some of the areas. One place I found had a resort built on top of the boulders by the time I got there! Some of the other areas are in the open which means not as many mozzies or vegetation in the way but it also means more sun. This was three years ago before that video came out, which I haven't seen. So who knows how many people have climbed there since.
As for the island itself, it is overrun with drunken dive masters and drunken motorbike drivers. It has basically no Thai community and no local culture. It's got more crime than anywhere on the west coast, which is saying a lot considering the violence that has been going on on Phi Phi this year.
As a whole I think southern Thailand is an overcrowded tourist trap that is a perfect example of how not to develop an area for tourism. The greed and lack of forethought here has created not only a "mafia" but also a culture of haves and have nots. The average daily wage on Phi Phi for anyone that is not a diver or climber is less than one percent of the average monthly income of the land owners. Even owners of large bars and restaurants make less than 10 percent of what their landlords make.
I can only wish that I was here 20 years ago. I've met a lot of the guys who put up the first routes on the peninsula and in Phi Phi and I envy them.
But just because Phi Phi is a tourist trap and Tonsai is now a Toilet doesn't mean that you can't find good climbing in these places. We are still putting up quality DWS and sport routes in the hard 7's here and the only reason there aren't more 8's is because I can't climb that hard!
Where exactly do you live? I can't imagine why you'd want to live in Thailand at all if you don't like the tourism. It's going to spread everywhere and ruin the entire environment.
If you are looking for someone to climb at Koh Yao with, I'd love to go.
I also have a full rack and would love to place some gear if you know of any areas!
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phang_nga
Feb 5, 2010, 1:32 AM
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Registered: Apr 2, 2006
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rtwilli4 wrote: As for the island itself, it is overrun with drunken dive masters and drunken motorbike drivers. It has basically no Thai community and no local culture. It's got more crime than anywhere on the west coast, which is saying a lot considering the violence that has been going on on Phi Phi this year. As a whole I think southern Thailand is an overcrowded tourist trap that is a perfect example of how not to develop an area for tourism. The greed and lack of forethought here has created not only a "mafia" but also a culture of haves and have nots. I can only wish that I was here 20 years ago. I've met a lot of the guys who put up the first routes on the peninsula and in Phi Phi and I envy them. But just because Phi Phi is a tourist trap and Tonsai is now a Toilet doesn't mean that you can't find good climbing in these places. We are still putting up quality DWS and sport routes in the hard 7's here and the only reason there aren't more 8's is because I can't climb that hard! Where exactly do you live? I can't imagine why you'd want to live in Thailand at all if you don't like the tourism. It's going to spread everywhere and ruin the entire environment. If you are looking for someone to climb at Koh Yao with, I'd love to go. I also have a full rack and would love to place some gear if you know of any areas!
Crime, drunks and exploitation are becoming the hallmarks of anywhere in Thailand with tourism. I'm sure this is not unique to Thailand to be fair.
Krabi and Phi Phi Thais have some of the most unfriendly Thais I've ever met. They're nice as long as you wallet is open. I'm pretty easy to get along with, but these guys often aren't. Their xenophobia is pegging the meter!
I climb trad mostly and have a big rack too. I like doing a bit of aid from time to time too... just to get to the top. I don't mind sport climbing. I've honestly never bouldered or DWS... don't like falling even in water.
I'm in the tourism business, but unlike almost everyone else, I only run small group, environmentally-sustainable tours. Money isn't my driving force.
I live in Phuket Town (quiet part), though I hope to someday move to Phang Nga Province... somewhere near Phang Nga Town. That's a lovely area with enough climbing to last many lifetimes. I also do a lot of climbing in Khao Sok.
BTW, I'm from Hampton, Virginia.
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