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rock_fencer
Feb 7, 2010, 6:36 PM
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Really not inhibitor, sure its one pitch but that pitch is probably top 5 best crack pitches east of the Mississippi. And yeah rumney is sport but you could climb techno-surfing on gear for sure, plus it used to be a trad crag before it got bolted.
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jrathfon
Feb 7, 2010, 6:53 PM
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yet they are all single pitch, i'd exclude them in the book i wrote. they are damn good climbs, but i don't include cragging in my definition of classic lines, just how i roll.
my goal this season is to finish up the gorge 5-star 11a's, which means i guess i'm gonna have to suck it up and actually get on inhibitor! NUTS!
if i was going to make a 50 eastern cragging routes, they might get my vote, course i haven't done techno either.
i'd throw in:
book of solemnity, cathedral
roadside attraction, rrg
andromeda strain, rrg
rock wars, rrg
never never land, gunks
feast of fools, gunks
flying hawaiian, rumney
stuff i havent touched:
the gift, rrg
inhibitor, rrg
yellow wall, gunks (maybe that goes in routes)
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rock_fencer
Feb 7, 2010, 7:29 PM
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fair enough, yeah thats becoming my goal for RRG, that and actually going there to clip bolts though thats probably not going to happen until i finish all the gear routes in my range.
For multipitch i would second Hyperbola at LGR amazing arcing crack and then classic water groove.
I would also include Southern Exposure and Fancy Lads at now closed Drapers Bluff, both for quality of the second pitch and the history behind it.
I would also include Reflections and Stone Wall Jackson at Table Rock SC even though its closed and i havent been on eiuther. They represent southern adventure climbing at its most hardcore. Reflections is just so damn pretty, http://picasaweb.google.com/...&feat=directlink
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nkane
Feb 7, 2010, 7:56 PM
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I know it's been mentioned, and I'll never send it, and it's single pitch, but Predator at Rumney has to be in the conversation for the most aesthetic sport route in the East, if not the country.
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jamatt
Feb 7, 2010, 8:05 PM
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From the moderate corner:
North Route: Table Rock, NC
White Lightening: Table Rock, NC
My Route: Table Rock, NC
The Daddy: NC Wall
Maginot Line: Shortoff
Sundial Crack: Looking Glass
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euphoricclimbing
Feb 7, 2010, 8:10 PM
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Here's my list for best TOP 10. Please note that I have not been to every place in the East like Cathedral, cannon cliff, or most of Linville gorge. I agree that the line has to be multi-pitch.
1) Marshall's Madness to Crack of Dawn - Seneca
2) West Pole to Gephart finish - Seneca
3) Roadside Attraction - RRG
4) Soler - Seneca ( 2 long pitches, sustained and amazing)
5) Shockly's Celiing - Gunks (better pitches and longer than high E)
6) Bonnie's Roof - Gunks (both pitches are sweet)
7) Something Interesting to Dangler - Gunks
8) Conn East Direct to Alcoa Presents - Seneca
9) Castor to Orangeaid - Seneca
10) Conn East - Seneca
Notables:
Gephart-Duffy -Seneca (last pitch is loose and scary)
Gunsight to Southpeak ( only one pitch)
High E - Gunks ( sorry, but this is truly the most overhyped route in the country)
Foxfire - RRG - ( just not enough good climbing)
Peregrine to sundial crack (accidentally) Looking Glass
The Quest - RRG
Zoo View - haven't done it yet.
Yeah, I am sure more classics are at Cathedral, etc. Just going off my own experiences.
(This post was edited by euphoricclimbing on Feb 7, 2010, 8:12 PM)
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camhead
Feb 7, 2010, 10:06 PM
Post #33 of 71
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*facepalm*
This thread has digressed into a simple "hey, what are the best climbs in the East?"
As was brought up in the other thread, the 50 classics are primarily listed for their HISTORICAL significance, they shaped the direction of climbs to come. In my experience, that trumps aestheticsof movement or "classic" status usually.
But by all means, keep it up with the "hey this is a really rad climb, too!" My vote would be for Woody's Arete sit start at Cooper's Rock, WV (v5). BAM.
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naitch
Feb 7, 2010, 10:15 PM
Post #34 of 71
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euphoricclimbing wrote: Here's my list for best TOP 10. Please note that I have not been to every place in the East like Cathedral, cannon cliff, or most of Linville gorge. I agree that the line has to be multi-pitch. 2) West Pole to Gephart finish - Seneca .
Ah...did you mean the Direct Finish to West Pole? Gephardt-Dufty is on the southern Pillar while West Pole is on the South Peak West Face.
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snoopy138
Feb 7, 2010, 10:15 PM
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j_ung wrote: This is spun off from the 50-classics thread, which is itself a spin off from something else. Anywho... if we were to create a list of 50 classics east of the Miss., what do you think would be on it?
The drive to your nearest airport for your flight out west?
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euphoricclimbing
Feb 7, 2010, 10:20 PM
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I do mean the direct finish to west pole. I thought that is was referred to in the old guide book as Gephardt's finish. Yes, I know about Gephardt-Duffy on the southern pillar and am not confusing the two.
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j_ung
Feb 7, 2010, 10:21 PM
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snoopy138 wrote: j_ung wrote: This is spun off from the 50-classics thread, which is itself a spin off from something else. Anywho... if we were to create a list of 50 classics east of the Miss., what do you think would be on it? The drive to your nearest airport for your flight out west?
Pffft... we may not have the length, but it's the girth that counts... right? Please?
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kachoong
Feb 7, 2010, 10:30 PM
Post #38 of 71
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I heard the pink slab route at the Aiguille Rock Gym in Orlando is classic! Been up for years too!
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wes_allen
Feb 7, 2010, 11:04 PM
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The first two pitches are kinda so-so, but the last pitch of wild hickory nuts at rumbling bald might be the best rock climbing I have done, anywhere. Sure there are three bolts, but a sport route, it isn't.
The quest at rrg would be the only one to make a multi pitch list, though there are some solid single pitch lines for sure.
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blueeyedclimber
Feb 7, 2010, 11:49 PM
Post #40 of 71
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Before we go any further, can we nail down a definition of "classic." I believe a lot of things can go into this, but I think a "classic" is a climb that a trip is centered around. As a local, it's easy for us to spout off a hundred climbs at our climbing area that we consider classics. But when you go on a trip, what are those climbs that you circle in the guidebook and say "I don't care what else I do, as long as I do THAT climb."
When I went to Red Rocks, Epinepherine was THAT climb. The rest of the climbing was filled with "whatever". ..good climbs, mind you, but still whatever, compared to my target climb.
I think cragging and single pitch climbing doesn't lend itself to target climbs. Why would I travel across the country to climb a 50 foot climb? So, when we talk about classics, it might be better if we were not allowed to label "classics" at our local areas.
Just a thought.
Josh
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dr_feelgood
Feb 7, 2010, 11:52 PM
Post #41 of 71
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camhead wrote: *facepalm* This thread has digressed into a simple "hey, what are the best climbs in the East?" As was brought up in the other thread, the 50 classics are primarily listed for their HISTORICAL significance, they shaped the direction of climbs to come. In my experience, that trumps aestheticsof movement or "classic" status usually. But by all means, keep it up with the "hey this is a really rad climb, too!" My vote would be for Woody's Arete sit start at Cooper's Rock, WV (v5). BAM.
Bring your raincoat.
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sherpa79
Feb 7, 2010, 11:57 PM
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Some that are classic in my mind...
RRG
Rock Wars
Autumn
Caver's Route
Arachnid
Nevermore
Africa
Where Lizards Dare
WNC
The Daddy
The Prow
NE Ridge
Cavers to My Route
And, quite a few bushwhackin', trundlin', fire ant infested classics that I've done and never known where we were, only that we were having FUN!
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johnwesely
Feb 8, 2010, 2:04 AM
Post #43 of 71
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sherpa79 wrote: Some that are classic in my mind... RRG Rock Wars Autumn Caver's Route Arachnid Nevermore Africa Where Lizards Dare WNC The Daddy The Prow NE Ridge Cavers to My Route And, quite a few bushwhackin', trundlin', fire ant infested classics that I've done and never known where we were, only that we were having FUN!
I may be unique, but I did not have any fun at all on Caver's. I do kind of agree concerning historical significance though.
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johnwesely
Feb 8, 2010, 2:05 AM
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j_ung wrote: I excluded the Nose on Looking Glass, because, while I recognize its huge historical significance, I really don't think it's all that great a route. IMO, Peregrine, Hyperbola, Sundial and half the routes on the South End are better.
I think the history and "classic value" of the nose trumps the barely different movement on peregrine and sundial.
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johnwesely
Feb 8, 2010, 2:06 AM
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Although Bedtime for Bonzo may not be the greatest climb, it does have a pretty unique character, a priceless view, and a very accessible grade.
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jrathfon
Feb 8, 2010, 4:35 AM
Post #46 of 71
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johnwesely wrote: Although Bedtime for Bonzo may not be the greatest climb, it does have a pretty unique character, a priceless view, and a very accessible grade.
i agree, but the only reason that thing is multipitch is cause you have to walk ledges, i mean you do a one rope rap with a 60 to hit the ground.
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jrathfon
Feb 8, 2010, 4:44 AM
Post #47 of 71
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blueeyedclimber wrote: Before we go any further, can we nail down a definition of "classic." I believe a lot of things can go into this, but I think a "classic" is a climb that a trip is centered around. As a local, it's easy for us to spout off a hundred climbs at our climbing area that we consider classics. But when you go on a trip, what are those climbs that you circle in the guidebook and say "I don't care what else I do, as long as I do THAT climb." When I went to Red Rocks, Epinepherine was THAT climb. The rest of the climbing was filled with "whatever". ..good climbs, mind you, but still whatever, compared to my target climb. I think cragging and single pitch climbing doesn't lend itself to target climbs. Why would I travel across the country to climb a 50 foot climb? So, when we talk about classics, it might be better if we were not allowed to label "classics" at our local areas. Just a thought. Josh
i agree fully with you josh. meanwhile, you should travel down here to do rock wars, it's that good. if you got to the gorge, it's the one thing (as a 10a trad climber) you MUST do. course it's 110' not 50' but it's a craggin' line.
but yeah, classic: you'd travel the lengths of the east coast to get there, and you MUST do this before you leave. it's classic cause henry barber put it up with hob-nailed boots, a swami, and two Tetons, ground up in the 40's, it was 5.10 before 5.7 existed. seriously though, the shear audacity of the line, the history, the exposure, situation and aesthetics all come into play. i'd give the glass MAYBE two lines. it's the friggin' entire east coast 50 classics, come on, are there really more than 2 lines at the glass worthy of this status? i'd say NONE at rumney, 3 at the gunks MAYBE. historic places like seneca, cannon, cathedral should all be there, just for there place in east coast (and north american for that matter) rock climbing history.
high-e itself does kind of suck (or just majorly over-hyped), i have to agree with that. i'm not the huge route history buff, but big bold, hard, ground up routes should be top on the list. i KNOW the black dike falls under this category, i mean onsight in the 70's solo in a storm with straight shafts, first grade 4 in new englad, SHEESH.
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guangzhou
Feb 8, 2010, 7:13 AM
Post #48 of 71
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charley wrote: What makes a climb a classic? History, the first ascensionist, the route, fun, hard, exposure, or what.
Depends on the author of the book to be honest.
olderic wrote: There is another aspect to all this too - typically "classic" implies that the climb is within reach of the average climber. If you are familiar with the European, especially British, list and books (wherre all this started) they typically have lists of "classic" climbs for everyman and "extreme" climbs for the hardmen.
Fifty Classic climbs didn't list routes that were within rech of the average climber when it was published. Actually, it listed routes that were cutting age for the ERA. Routes that pushed the envelope of climbing for climbers of that generation.
Even today, the routes are not that easy. Sure they look easy on paper, but I've climbed a lot of the pure rock routes and I've seen more than one party bail on each and everyone of them.
When I lived in TN, I considered putting together a photo/guide book of classic routes in the South East. I would have listed route 5.11a and below for the book I have in mind.
A newer version of the book has come out, 50 Favorite Climbs. Look at that list and you'll see that those routes are not easy. It's a remake of the book 30 years later with a new eye on climbing. I wonder what climbers will say about those routes 30 years from now.
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guangzhou
Feb 8, 2010, 7:34 AM
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My list, I am sure they are other great routes out there, but I am only going to recomend routes I've actually done.:
The Prow (Cathedral)
Glass Menagerie (Looking Glass)
Great Arch (Stone Mountain)
Warriors Way (Whitesides.)
Mobby Grape (Canon)
Hands Across America (T-Wall)
Corn Flake Crack (Looking Glass)
Someone earlier mentioned The Bolted One at Jackson. An excellent route, not on my nomination list.
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camhead
Feb 8, 2010, 11:55 AM
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This may be another thread topic (yet again), but does anyone have access to the "Fifty Favorite Climbs" list? I remember it begin pretty cool, and I've done quite a few more of those routes than I have the "Fifty Classic Climbs."
As I remember, Tricks of the Trade in Zion, Rainbow Wall in RR, Grand Wall in Squish, etc. were some of the routes.
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That's a pretty wide accident. 
