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jrathfon
Feb 10, 2010, 6:10 AM
Post #51 of 67
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bandycoot wrote: "That's, like, your opinion, man." ~The Big Lebowski
i wouldn't have thought you need to cite the quote, at least i hope you wouldn't have needed to.
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aerili
Feb 10, 2010, 6:39 AM
Post #52 of 67
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Cochise Stronghold:
* Warpaint 5.10c
* Stampede 5.11a
* Sheep Thrills 5.11c ? (<--Not sure if that is slab or not)
The Needles must have some hard slab routes....I just haven't climbed them myself (yet!)
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curt
Feb 12, 2010, 11:44 PM
Post #54 of 67
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boadman wrote: bandycoot wrote: In reply to: Anything less than 90 degrees is a slab climb. It might not be a friction slab, but it's still a slab. I'm pretty sure that the meat of the B-Y is vertical, as I said before. Thus, it probably wouldn't be considered a slab. Watch the video: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=45198 There's a bunch of pictures at the end that show the angle of the climb. It's steep, but not vertical. Slab.
Indeed not--it's beyond vertical for much of the route.
Curt
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k.l.k
Feb 12, 2010, 11:54 PM
Post #55 of 67
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johnwesely wrote: yokese wrote: LCohen wrote: Is anyone aware of a list of the best/most definitive slab climbs? Thanks! I don't really understand what you mean by "best/most definitive", but this one is surely one of the hardest: http://www.planetmountain.com/...?l=2&keyid=36940Since when are face routes considered slab?
"Slab" is the usual word for translating the various European terms for any steep, fairly smooth plane of rock. Dalle, in French, is "slab" in English. So if you see the term in a guidebook, it can easily mean a climb that hits 90 degrees.
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camhead
Feb 13, 2010, 12:27 AM
Post #56 of 67
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k.l.k wrote: johnwesely wrote: yokese wrote: LCohen wrote: Is anyone aware of a list of the best/most definitive slab climbs? Thanks! I don't really understand what you mean by "best/most definitive", but this one is surely one of the hardest: http://www.planetmountain.com/...?l=2&keyid=36940Since when are face routes considered slab? "Slab" is the usual word for translating the various European terms for any steep, fairly smooth plane of rock. Dalle, in French, is "slab" in English. So if you see the term in a guidebook, it can easily mean a climb that hits 90 degrees.
This is America. I don't care what all those cheese-eating surrender frogs think a slab is. If English was good enough for Jesus, it is god enough for climbing terminology. Good lord, who won the American Revolution anyway?
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Basta916
Feb 13, 2010, 12:40 AM
Post #57 of 67
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Hm.. "Red River Gorge"
great
"super slab"
"Iron lung"
a number of .11 at Chica Bonita, don't forget "Henry" at Left Flank.
Many, many others...
And other climbers will look at you like you are crazy, some will ask
"why would anybody climb that?"
Just like many here will say " why would anybody go to "RED"to climb
slab's"
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camhead
Feb 13, 2010, 12:52 AM
Post #60 of 67
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Dang, that route looks amazing.
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ryanb
Feb 13, 2010, 1:30 AM
Post #61 of 67
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boadman wrote: bandycoot wrote: trenchdigger wrote: kachoong wrote: Bachar-Yerian A slab? Suicide Rock in Idyllwild likely has a lot of classic hard slabs, though some of which have crux sections too vertical to really call "slab". Slab master Darrel Hensel put most of the hard ones up. Some of the classics off the top of my head... Serpentine (5.9) Ten Karat Gold (5.10 R) Sundance (5.10b) Valhalla (5.11a) Rebolting Development (5.11a R) New Generation (5.11c) Moondance (5.11c) The Untickable (5.12a) Ishi (5.12d) Someone You're Not (5.13a) Trenchdigger, go get on Duck Soup! It's awesome! For the 2nd pitch, have you belayer use the anchor for another climb below and out right so that if you blow the 5.10 runout right off the anchor it isn't factor 2 and you won't hit your belayer. :) Also, I agree. The B-Y is vertical knobs and is in no way a slab climb by the largest stretch of the imagination. Anything less than 90 degrees is a slab climb. It might not be a friction slab, but it's still a slab. I think Index in Washington is probably the coolest place for slab climbing I've ever been. Really funky slab climbs. Super wierd beta.
The fifth force at index gets my vote for the coolest beta on a slab (85 deg?) climb. As far as I can figure out it involves both an all points off dyno and a mandatory heel hook into a crazy barn door dyno...one short climber claims he bypasses both of these moves with ~v8 crimp boulder problems.
Model worker is also a fun odd ball slab and Newest Industry is a pure (70 deg?) slab that has to be one of the hardest 11a's at index.
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johnwesely
Feb 13, 2010, 1:45 AM
Post #62 of 67
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Basta916 wrote: Hm.. "Red River Gorge" great "super slab" "Iron lung" a number of .11 at Chica Bonita, don't forget "Henry" at Left Flank. Many, many others... And other climbers will look at you like you are crazy, some will ask "why would anybody climb that?" Just like many here will say " why would anybody go to "RED"to climb slab's"
Yellow Brick Road at Lady Slipper has some of the best movement at the Red. Great climb.
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snoopy138
Feb 13, 2010, 3:46 AM
Post #63 of 67
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bandycoot wrote: trenchdigger wrote: kachoong wrote: Bachar-Yerian A slab? Suicide Rock in Idyllwild likely has a lot of classic hard slabs, though some of which have crux sections too vertical to really call "slab". Slab master Darrel Hensel put most of the hard ones up. Some of the classics off the top of my head... Serpentine (5.9) Ten Karat Gold (5.10 R) Sundance (5.10b) Valhalla (5.11a) Rebolting Development (5.11a R) New Generation (5.11c) Moondance (5.11c) The Untickable (5.12a) Ishi (5.12d) Someone You're Not (5.13a) Trenchdigger, go get on Duck Soup! It's awesome! For the 2nd pitch, have you belayer use the anchor for another climb below and out right so that if you blow the 5.10 runout right off the anchor it isn't factor 2 and you won't hit your belayer. :)
Heh, I didn't do that, oops. My belayer was about 100 lbs and somewhat scared. Didn't think there was any .10 getting to that first bolt, though. Felt 5.9.
Pitch 1 I have to admit to cheating and clipping a couple of the revelations bolts. Couldn't figure out where the goddamn 1st bolt was until I was at the anchor and saw that I had missed the one 60 ft. off the ground.
2nd pitch of Revelations is also really cool, ~120 ft. of very sustained 9/10a slab.
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pendereki
Feb 13, 2010, 3:49 AM
Post #64 of 67
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Registered: Oct 22, 2004
Posts: 323
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If a person is crimping, isn't that face climbing, not slab?
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camhead
Feb 13, 2010, 3:56 AM
Post #65 of 67
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
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Basta916 wrote: Hm.. "Red River Gorge" great "super slab" "Iron lung" a number of .11 at Chica Bonita, don't forget "Henry" at Left Flank. Many, many others... And other climbers will look at you like you are crazy, some will ask "why would anybody climb that?" Just like many here will say " why would anybody go to "RED"to climb slab's"
Superslab is not a slab.
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Basta916
Feb 13, 2010, 4:16 AM
Post #66 of 67
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Registered: Jun 27, 2007
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camhead wrote: Basta916 wrote: Hm.. "Red River Gorge" great "super slab" "Iron lung" a number of .11 at Chica Bonita, don't forget "Henry" at Left Flank. Many, many others... And other climbers will look at you like you are crazy, some will ask "why would anybody climb that?" Just like many here will say " why would anybody go to "RED"to climb slab's" Superslab is not a slab.
ok..you are correct...
most of slabs in the RED are not really a slab...let's call them RRG Slab's (around +/-90 degrees or so) Superslab is a lot of smear , technical....RRG Slab
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lvpyne
Feb 13, 2010, 3:12 PM
Post #67 of 67
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Posts: 207
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camhead wrote: Quartz Mt. in Oklahoma should be on anyone's list of slab-intensive places. Yes, Oklahoma.
Combine that Oklahoma climbing (yes, Oklahoma) with the Backside area of Enchanted Rock (in Texas) and you have some classic, off-the-geographic-beaten-path slab climbing,
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