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Make Rock Climbing an Olympic sport
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dingus


Feb 16, 2010, 3:08 PM
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I am over wrought with ambivalence. Climbing in the Olympics... yaaaaaawwwwwwnnnnnn!

Whatever.

DMT


qtm


Feb 16, 2010, 3:10 PM
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tom550 wrote:
exactly! its not even the point of watching the olimpics but what will happen over time. you would see a increase in people climbing then die down. then you would start to see better shoes, chalk, mats, etc.

Oh, is that how it works? There's no selling out of your longtime customers, moving production away from premium goods to more cheaply made products to meet the lower buying power of the masses?

Hmm... no, I guess we *never* see any threads about how a great boutique company has gone public and no longer offering the same quality products.


dingus


Feb 16, 2010, 3:16 PM
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I don't want climbing in the Olympics. It would definitely sully climbing. The need to win some metal would bring Big League Cheating to the sport. And pro climbers who missed their chancee to be children back in the day... will get to compete against amateurs, thereby completely negating the very reason for the games to begin with,

It seems to me Olympic will bring out the worst aspects of climbing and completely ignore the best.

Enjoy!

DMT


qwert


Feb 16, 2010, 3:41 PM
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tom550 wrote:
exactly! its not even the point of watching the olimpics but what will happen over time. you would see a increase in people climbing then die down. then you would start to see better shoes, chalk, mats, etc.
Actually all of this better stuff you mention is crap.
Better shoes are already there! They are called ice climbing boots with monopoints, i just always get thrown out of the gym when i use them. but they are really the best thing!
Better chalk: shure, i get my stuff from colombia. but i dont put it into the chalk bag, but in my nose. I get much higher than with your crappy ordinary chalk.
And the mat i know is actually a fine guy, so i would want him improved.

...On a more serious note:
Almost all stuff we are using for climbing is the same since about 30 years!
Innovations are minor, and will stay minor, until we get stuff like carbon nanotubes. Most stuff that happens nowadays is cosmetics. And with chalk ... i am not going to explain again to some idiot what chalk actually is ... no improvement to be expected.

And to all of the people that think gym climbers dont go outdoors:
At least in germany it is not true. The german alpine club has actually done a study, and the vast majority wants to go outdoors.
There are a lot of people that become a worthy addition to the climbing community, but the more folks you get, the more assholes you get.
I am not kidding you, but i have often seen people at the rock, that are loudly complaining about stuff like "that route is way to hard for the grade" "which idiot put the bolts so far away" "why are there no draws" "what am i supposed to do at the top? there is not clip in point!" "why are there plants and dirt in the crags?" and so on.
We are getting access problems already simply due to the massess of climbers.

qwert


johnwesely


Feb 16, 2010, 3:56 PM
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airscape wrote:
Don't forget the mats... they use that in gymnastics too.

The mats are not really analogous though. They are not designed to be portable.


Partner camhead


Feb 16, 2010, 3:59 PM
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Re: [qwert] Make Rock Climbing an Olympic sport [In reply to]
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qwert wrote:
Almost all stuff we are using for climbing is the same since about 30 years!
Innovations are minor, and will stay minor, until we get stuff like carbon nanotubes. Most stuff that happens nowadays is cosmetics. And with chalk ... i am not going to explain again to some idiot what chalk actually is ... no improvement to be expected.

It all depends on your personal definition of what "innovation" and "revolutionary" technology is, but 90% of well-informed climbers would disagree with your statement that most innovation of the last 30 years is merely "cosmetic."

I'll let others tell you why, if you can't figure it out for yourself.


qwert


Feb 16, 2010, 5:31 PM
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camhead wrote:
qwert wrote:
Almost all stuff we are using for climbing is the same since about 30 years!
Innovations are minor, and will stay minor, until we get stuff like carbon nanotubes. Most stuff that happens nowadays is cosmetics. And with chalk ... i am not going to explain again to some idiot what chalk actually is ... no improvement to be expected.

It all depends on your personal definition of what "innovation" and "revolutionary" technology is, but 90% of well-informed climbers would disagree with your statement that most innovation of the last 30 years is merely "cosmetic."

I'll let others tell you why, if you can't figure it out for yourself.
I know my statement was provocative, but i do think that it is true - in the greater sense.
Take carabiners: Sure, we have wiregates, and hot forging and keylock and whatnot, but esential we still have little pieces of metal that still have the same failure mode than they had since someone got the idea to make the gate a structural part. sure, they go lighter and stronger, but for 90% of the climbers this does not make a noticeable difference.
or shoes. Yes, the rubber is a bit stickier, and some advanced shapes are helping me to better shred the gnarkill, or whatever that is called, but they dont make me climb significantly better than old EBs
or ice axes. Still a piece of steel on an aluminium tube. The forms changed a bit, but i still have to use a lot of power, to climb above my protection.
Or ropes. since the invention of the kernmantel rope they got a tad lighter, and hold some more falls, but they still have a significant weight if you want to have a usable length, and they still fail if you load them over a sharp edge.
And so on

and i dont think olimpionics will change much.

qwert


wallwombat


Feb 16, 2010, 7:53 PM
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Re: [tom550] Make Rock Climbing an Olympic sport [In reply to]
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tom550 wrote:
Who sits down to write on an internet forum to talk about rock climbing? Were you planning to come and talk about climbing all day and help other people who climb?
i really dont get this form.

Mate, I don't know if you realised but, in the first sentence, you accidently put a 'u' in 'form'.

Just make sure you don't go letting me down by putting a 'y' in 'olimpics'. I'll have to construct a whole new mental picture.


kriso9tails


Feb 16, 2010, 8:03 PM
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What the hell are you talking about? We live in an age where we can get grigris in different colours and atc sports. If these two things have not revolutionized your climbing, I don't know what the hell will.


jcoop


Feb 16, 2010, 8:43 PM
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Re: [altelis] Make Rock Climbing an Olympic sport [In reply to]
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altelis wrote:
jcoop wrote:
...

I'm not saying you are wrong. I'm saying I don't want climbing in the Olympics. When you put up reasons why you think its a good idea and I offer reasons why I disagree with your reasons, that's called a discussion.

When I say 'STFU NOOB" that's putting my fingers in my ears. And saying I'm closed minded and don't want to listen puts you a step closer to that truth than me. I've never called you an idiot or closed minded. I've disagreed with your points- but then again, if you only wanted people who agreed you would've probably made a poll with only one answer choice, eh?

Of course there are d-bags anywhere. Sure I might be one of them. But the more people you pull into gyms because they saw people pulling plastic in the olympics, inside some gym far removed from the outside, thats going to up the chance they are a douche bag. This actually brings up one more reason why I like the winter olympics so much more than the summer- the winter olympics are primarily mountain sports. Sports that consist of people originially looking up the hill and saying "I want to play there".

The beginners who I typically get along with the most are mountain people, who play in and among the mountains. They've had to skirt or walk under enough cliffs to finally say, you know, it would be FUN to be up there.

The beginners who I typically don't get along with are the one's who's connection to the sport starts with seeing it as a gym thing, far removed from the beauty of exploration of wild and far flung places. This, to me, would include people who learn about climbing while watching the olympics and seeing somebody pull plastic in an arena.

And of course plastic carries over to climbing rock. That's why I go to a gym when I can and its not climbable outside. But the thing about climbing that gets me off isn't found in that gym. Its found outside. That's why the winter games again, are more appealing to me. They are outside. I can see the huge peaks behind them and am reminded of why I like the mountains so much.

You can disagree, that's fine. And I'm not mad at you for it. For me, the reasons why I climb are found deep in things other than climbing- they are a spirit of adventure and pushing one's self that I have found in many pursuits in the mountains. They are the same reasons I ultimately grew bored of being a competitive swimmer, lacrosse player, and wrestler. My experience is that those who wander in because of some cache the sport finds outside of exploration, they are typically (but of course not always) not who I want to share my time with. You may have different experiences, you may have different reactions or have met people who mostly break the "rule" that I have experienced.

My suspicion is that for all the reason your point of view will seem alien to me, my point of view will seem alien to you. I am listening, just so you know. I'm just not finding what you are saying to be convincing. Oh well.

Thanks for the constructive post. I didn't mean to offend you, but your previous post rubbed me the wrong way.


First of all, there's no proof that climbing being in the Olympics would substantially alter the growth of the sport. Climbing is becoming more and more popular every day, so who knows what the impacts of climbing in the olympics would have in 10 years. IF more people started climbing into the gyms I think it would be a good thing, regardless of the skill level or reason for joining. Just because someone was inspired to start climbing because of a different reason than you does not make them a douche. Just the fact that they were inspired enough to find a gym and take the initiative to experience climbing is good enough for me.

Inspiration is inspiration, I don't think you can argue that one source is better than the other.


And believe me though, I deal with d bags in the gym A LOT. After I graduated, I moved back to NJ and for the past 3 months I've been almost exclusively climbing in the gym. There is no solid climbing community there, half of the employees have never been outside, the owners, don't climb, and there is an infinite flow of beginner hipsters coming into the gym. I deal with douchey high school kids showing off to their friends by campusing jug routes, climbers who have been climbing 3 months complaining that the routes are too hard and that "this v3 is a v5 because I can do v5 at the other gym" and all other sorts of douchiness.

But you know what, none of that impacts MY experience at the gym. If I have one or two friends I can climb with at the gym, then what do I care what other people are doing? Even if I don't have someone to climb with, does it really matter that there are people who annoy you at the gym? Obviously, you would much rather be climbing outside, so why does the behavior in the gym have such an impact on you?


(This post was edited by jcoop on Feb 16, 2010, 8:45 PM)


tom550


Feb 17, 2010, 2:03 AM
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i also dont get why you guys are trying so hard to convince me that we shouldnt have climbing as a Olympic sport.


deltav


Feb 17, 2010, 2:40 AM
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Re: [jcoop] Make Rock Climbing an Olympic sport [In reply to]
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jcoop wrote:
agdavis wrote:
jcoop wrote:
rockforlife wrote:
jcoop wrote:
As climbers, why would we not want climbing to be an Olympic sport?

Enlighten me.

People

A wonderful, well thought out response. Thanks for your contribution!

I think his response was great. More publicity = more people = more lines at the crag. Climbing spots are a scarcity in the truest sense of the word.

More people= more publicity= more money / more awareness for access issues= more places to climb. Are lines at your crag really that big of an issue?

And really, how many people watch the Olympics and say oh that's cool, I'm going to go try that! I know I just watched the Luge on the Olympics and that it looked like great fun! There is no way I will EVER do it though, and I'd be willing to bet that would hold true for climbing.

If anything, climbing in the Olympics will give the pretentious, "hardcore", climbers on this forum a boost to their already inflated egos. When Joe Smith from next door sees climbing in the Olympics and asks " you do that?" they can reply " No, that's plastic , I only climb outdoors"

And I know this will be a controversial statement on this forum, but God forbid there's enough money in climbing to support all but the most elite athletes. If Olympic participation brings in enough money to support some of the climbers who struggle to devote their lives to climbing, then that is a great thing.

Good points here. i don't see why bringing good publicity to our sport is a bad thing.


healyje


Feb 17, 2010, 2:55 AM
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jcoop wrote:
More people= more publicity= more money / more awareness for access issues= more places to climb.
Pretty simple - more people = more access issues - just the opposite of what you posit.

...

jcoop wrote:
If Olympic participation brings in enough money to support some of the climbers who struggle to devote their lives to climbing, then that is a great thing.

Couldn't disagree more.


altelis


Feb 17, 2010, 3:01 AM
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Re: [tom550] Make Rock Climbing an Olympic sport [In reply to]
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doooooooooooooder. if you were expecting everybody to agree you posted on the wrong website. i think you wanted www.narcissism.org or www.mythoughtsarealwaysrightnomatterwhatothersmaythink.com

certainly rc.n00b is NOT a place you are going to get consensus. EVAR. no matter the issue.

i find it interesting you feel you are so in the right, but many with MANY years more experience and wisdom than me think its a bad idea. but whatevs, you have the right to see and experience the world as you wish. that's what makes this group of people so interesting. we have so many different views on things some would think should be no-brainer consensus issues. we aren't saying get out 'cause you disagree. (at least i'm not)

you asked a question and we gave our different answers. what's the point of starting a thread if you didn't want/expect discourse?

and, except for some WAY necessary ribbing on some TERRIBLE grammar and spelling, this has been quite the civilized thread...


caughtinside


Feb 17, 2010, 3:03 AM
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healyje wrote:
jcoop wrote:
More people= more publicity= more money / more awareness for access issues= more places to climb.
Pretty simple - more people = more access issues - just the opposite of what you posit.

...

jcoop wrote:
If Olympic participation brings in enough money to support some of the climbers who struggle to devote their lives to climbing, then that is a great thing.

Couldn't disagree more.

I'm with the healy on this one... a rarity!

Think about what the best things are about climbing. Then, ask yourself if these things would be better by adding more people and more money.


bill413


Feb 17, 2010, 3:21 AM
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caughtinside wrote:
healyje wrote:
jcoop wrote:
More people= more publicity= more money / more awareness for access issues= more places to climb.
Pretty simple - more people = more access issues - just the opposite of what you posit.

...

jcoop wrote:
If Olympic participation brings in enough money to support some of the climbers who struggle to devote their lives to climbing, then that is a great thing.

Couldn't disagree more.

I'm with the healy on this one... a rarity!

Think about what the best things are about climbing. Then, ask yourself if these things would be better by adding more people and more money.

Realizing that in no way will that "more money" ever come in your direction.

Seriously - they IOC doesn't support the athletes. The organizations for the specific sport within each country do (or don't). I think that if you're interested in more sponsorship for climbing, you should help promote competitions that already exist - let your media outlets know, etc. The Olympics will come, or not.

Look at a lot of sports - they are incredibly popular in certain areas, and those areas tend to do well in the Olympics (since they have a large pool of talent to pull from). Luge in Germany, Soccer anywhere but the US, Cricket in, ummm....(yeah - it's coming to the games).

I don't see the Olympics as a short-cut to popularizing the sport. Having the sport visible & supported may lead to the Olympics. And, as fun as it is to be able to say "I participate in a sport that you should know because it's in the Olympics," you'll probably still get blank stares in most places if you say "I like doing the decathlon."


(Oh, and: Preserving the agreement between CI & HealyJ for posterity Wink)


zeke_sf


Feb 17, 2010, 1:57 PM
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tom550 wrote:
i also dont get why you guys are trying so hard to convince me that we shouldnt have climbing as a Olympic sport.

Judging by the quality we've seen displayed here, what you think isn't very important to anybody. Think away, dumbass!


dingus


Feb 17, 2010, 2:03 PM
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zeke_sf wrote:
tom550 wrote:
i also dont get why you guys are trying so hard to convince me that we shouldnt have climbing as a Olympic sport.

Judging by the quality we've seen displayed here, what you think isn't very important to anybody. Think away, dumbass!

Its the Olympics themselves... when they let professional crybabies into the games, for the sake of profits alone, the games were revealed to be morally bankrupt.

Why saddle climbing with THAT?

DMT


acorneau


Feb 17, 2010, 2:46 PM
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Things most commonly heard at the crag from non-climbers:

1. "How did you get the rope up there?"

2. "Do you wants to climb Mt. Everest in the Olympics someday?"

Crazy


Partner angry


Feb 17, 2010, 2:49 PM
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acorneau wrote:
Things most commonly heard at the crag from non-climbers:

1. "How did you get the rope up there?"

2. "Do you wants to climb Mt. Everest in the Olympics someday?"

Crazy

"Why is everyone naked"

I like to haze the n00bs.


dynosore


Feb 17, 2010, 4:11 PM
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tom550 wrote:
carabiner96 wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
carabiner96 wrote:
tom550 wrote:
ha wow this form is stupid

You keep using that word. I do not think it means what you think it means....

He spelled it correctly one out of two times in the post above yours. Progress.

He also attached a picture of an ugly car. That negates any progress as he is probably at home in diapers playing with his hot wheels.

the black one goes fast :]

Did you spraypaint that flat black to "look" like carbon fiber? LOL! I bet you think your $3000 car is awesome.....some people were just born to be wrong, I guess.


tom550


Feb 17, 2010, 10:06 PM
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dynosore wrote:
tom550 wrote:
carabiner96 wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
carabiner96 wrote:
tom550 wrote:
ha wow this form is stupid

You keep using that word. I do not think it means what you think it means....

He spelled it correctly one out of two times in the post above yours. Progress.

He also attached a picture of an ugly car. That negates any progress as he is probably at home in diapers playing with his hot wheels.

the black one goes fast :]

Did you spraypaint that flat black to "look" like carbon fiber? LOL! I bet you think your $3000 car is awesome.....some people were just born to be wrong, I guess.

your just jealous because my cars is better than any car you will ever own in power and value.


Partner camhead


Feb 17, 2010, 10:26 PM
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tom550 wrote:
your just jealous because my cars is better than any car you will ever own in power and value.




johnwesely


Feb 17, 2010, 10:33 PM
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tom550 wrote:
dynosore wrote:
tom550 wrote:
carabiner96 wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
carabiner96 wrote:
tom550 wrote:
ha wow this form is stupid

You keep using that word. I do not think it means what you think it means....

He spelled it correctly one out of two times in the post above yours. Progress.

He also attached a picture of an ugly car. That negates any progress as he is probably at home in diapers playing with his hot wheels.

the black one goes fast :]

Did you spraypaint that flat black to "look" like carbon fiber? LOL! I bet you think your $3000 car is awesome.....some people were just born to be wrong, I guess.

your just jealous because my cars is better than any car you will ever own in power and value.
I can remember the last time my car needed power. It was about when I was having those penis issues...


kriso9tails


Feb 17, 2010, 10:37 PM
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tom550 wrote:
your just jealous because my cars is better than any car you will ever own in power and value.

I find it hard to believe that you even have a driver's license. First problem, there's usually a written portion for the exam. Second problem, you have to be at least sixteen years of age.

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