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MtnFly
Feb 24, 2010, 8:02 AM
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Registered: Feb 1, 2010
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Been climbing about a month now. Most of the time in the gym, got out on some real rock today. Rode Mammoth till about noon until they closed the top, then headed down to Alabama Hills for my first climb on real rock.
This is to say thanks for a great site of information, I have read hundereds of posts and received lots of good information.
For other beginners reading this.....everyone is right, gym climbing pales in comparison to the outdoors. It is much harder, the holds are nothing like you see in the gym, but it is where you want to be...no questions about it.
So...I spent a few hours placing nuxs and hexes...trying to equalize them....trying to get them unstuck...wondering how anyone can grow to climb past pro???? I finally decided to lead a climb, where about 5 times, wondered to myself how I could get up to the next bolt. Later to read reports that its good route to test approach shoes on....or I climbed this route in running shoes.
Either way its fun learning...cant wait to get back!
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bsyed
Feb 24, 2010, 12:38 PM
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Registered: Mar 2, 2009
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you've been climbing for a month and went straight into trad?
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jeepnphreak
Feb 24, 2010, 3:58 PM
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Registered: Jul 29, 2008
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Finaly a noob with some balls
Thanks for not asking stupid question about when to lead and how to lead.
Just jumed on it and started playing with trad.
Nice going.
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uni_jim
Feb 24, 2010, 4:09 PM
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Registered: Mar 27, 2008
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right on, man. you are doing it the right way.
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granite_grrl
Feb 24, 2010, 5:18 PM
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bsyed wrote: you've been climbing for a month and went straight into trad?
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cornstateclimber
Feb 24, 2010, 6:35 PM
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Registered: Jul 24, 2005
Posts: 324
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approach shoes or not good job. takes some to just jump on the wall and start leading. ive been climbing 8 years now and alot of the people ive climbed with even after several years of climbing they still wont take the lead. Man i need new partners!
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MtnFly
Feb 24, 2010, 9:33 PM
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Registered: Feb 1, 2010
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Thanks for encouragement. For the record I was not leading trad, rather it was a sport route ( the easiest one I could find). But I have been spending time building anchors at the bottoms of climbs...My large goal is to lead trad on high alpine ridges (ie. Matthes Crest kind of stuff). Though I am new to rock climbing I have a long love for high remote places, rock climbing is a vehicle to go further.
So, I figure every anchor I build helps me in the long run to ultimate goals.
Climbing past my anchors was awesome....i had to settle down some Elvis Leg and everything was allright.
Would love a SO CAL mentor if anyone is out there.....I only work like 3 days a week and have no problem taking weeks off!
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rtwilli4
Feb 25, 2010, 3:40 AM
Post #9 of 13
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Registered: Feb 14, 2008
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bsyed wrote: you've been climbing for a month and went straight into trad?
What, are you supposed to climb sport for a year first?
I didn't even know what sport climbing was when I started climbing... and I'm doing just fine!
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rtwilli4
Feb 25, 2010, 3:44 AM
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Registered: Feb 14, 2008
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And to the OP... climbing is not unlike being in the back country alone (on skiis or board). If you get yourself into a mess, you need to know how to get out of it. Keep that in mind and keep learning skills and you'll progress fast! Also, find that mentor... best way to learn!
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petsfed
Feb 25, 2010, 4:15 AM
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bsyed wrote: you've been climbing for a month and went straight into trad?
I'd been leading for nearly 2 years when I finally clipped my first bolt as a lead anchor. Mind you, it was rusty old star-drive that had been drilled, by hand, from a free stance. My first proper sport climb was about a month after that.
As long as you're operating with the right supervision, you don't have to start with sport, and sometimes its best that you don't.
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bsyed
Feb 25, 2010, 11:02 AM
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Registered: Mar 2, 2009
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i didnt start as a gym rat either, its just here people start with top rope or bouldering its just ballsy to go into trad to begin with...
i know in other countries they start with lead but i didnt know you could jump straight into trad cos of getting used placements etc...
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climbingtrash
Feb 25, 2010, 11:51 AM
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Registered: Jan 19, 2006
Posts: 5114
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Right on MtnFly. I felt the same way about pro when I first started trad climbing. It was hard to imagine climbing past a piece that was meant to be removed. Bolts I had no problem trusting...but now I find myself being more suspect of bolts (that I didn't place) than of gear placements. You'll get there. 
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