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scalder
Feb 28, 2010, 5:50 PM
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Hello, Long time lurker, but couldn't find what I was looking for so made an account. I have a handful of ugly slopers bolted to a joice in my basement that I am hanging off of to train open hand strength, but it's getting to the point where it's more of an endurance workout than increasing my strength on slopers in general. I am thinking of building something like the image below to keep the progess going, but don't know what a good or realistic angle would be. Is 45 and 30 enough? Should I throw a 15 or 20 degree angle on there as well and get rid of the small rail? For background, I've been climbing for over 3 years and am pretty solid on easier 5.12 routes and can send 12c and sometimes d with concentrated effort. I've managed to avoid injury so far so I like to think I know how to avoid injury due to overstressing joints, etc. [edit - this is supposed to be a side view of angled ledges. I wasn't really clear in my explanation] Thanks in advance for the help, -steve
(This post was edited by scalder on Mar 1, 2010, 2:37 AM)
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sample-hangboard-addition.GIF
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sidepull
Feb 28, 2010, 7:20 PM
Post #2 of 16
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I'm not sure what your .gif is trying to capture. You can always up the ante by: a) buying slopers that are more henious. b) adding weight. These are just easier solutions. As far as your angle question, I have a climbing board that overhangs 60 degrees (e.g., it's built on a frame with two equilateral triangles) and find that hanging the slopers is pretty tricky. Good luck.
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seatbeltpants
Feb 28, 2010, 11:10 PM
Post #3 of 16
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scalder wrote: Hello, Long time lurker, but couldn't find what I was looking for so made an account. I have a handful of ugly slopers bolted to a joice in my basement that I am hanging off of to train open hand strength, but it's getting to the point where it's more of an endurance workout than increasing my strength on slopers in general. I am thinking of building something like the image below to keep the progess going, but don't know what a good or realistic angle would be. Is 45 and 30 enough? Should I throw a 15 or 20 degree angle on there as well and get rid of the small rail? For background, I've been climbing for over 3 years and am pretty solid on easier 5.12 routes and can send 12c and sometimes d with concentrated effort. I've managed to avoid injury so far so I like to think I know how to avoid injury due to overstressing joints, etc. Thanks in advance for the help, -steve hey steve, i'd have thought that the ideal angle will depend on the texture of the material you're using. from your post i take it you'd be using a piece of wood, maybe? i'd just try it and see how it goes... steve
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mandryd
Mar 1, 2010, 1:01 AM
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if you're making this out of wood and you're a 5.12 climber, 20 degrees will feel quite easy. you will probably be able to one arm them. (for reference i'm a v8 boulderer and i'm starting to do 13s. however i consider myself relatively "weak" at slopers compared to v8 climbers who do sloper problems) Remember this is all dependent on the friction of the wood you're using. some woods are glassier than others. my experience is on a sanded pine kind of wood. also of note, wood will be sticker with a little moisture, so the weather you're hanging the board in will also affect it. 25 is prob where you want to start as a good warm up sloper. 35 is relatively difficult but not too bad. 45 will feel absolutely impossible to you without a lot of nestle for a long ass time. as you approach the 45, it doesn't really get incrementally harder, it gets exponentially harder. so an increase from 35 to 36 will be easier than an increase from 44-45. good luck crankin
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scalder
Mar 1, 2010, 2:00 AM
Post #5 of 16
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Thanks for the reply! The .gif was supposed to be a side view of the board - I guess it wasn't all that clear. I'll try adding weight to see how it goes - I"m pretty sure they sell those belts you can clip weight to at a place near where I live.
sidepull wrote: I'm not sure what your .gif is trying to capture. You can always up the ante by: a) buying slopers that are more henious. b) adding weight. These are just easier solutions. As far as your angle question, I have a climbing board that overhangs 60 degrees (e.g., it's built on a frame with two equilateral triangles) and find that hanging the slopers is pretty tricky. Good luck.
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scalder
Mar 1, 2010, 2:09 AM
Post #6 of 16
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Thanks for the advice, Yes, it would be wood. Hadn't thought about the kind of wood so I'll take that into consideration when I build it. I'll prob try a 35, 45, and maybe a 55 degree ledge, just so I have something really hard to work on. I have the other holds so don't really need a warm up sloper. Will see how it goes! - steve
mandryd wrote: if you're making this out of wood and you're a 5.12 climber, 20 degrees will feel quite easy. you will probably be able to one arm them. (for reference i'm a v8 boulderer and i'm starting to do 13s. however i consider myself relatively "weak" at slopers compared to v8 climbers who do sloper problems) Remember this is all dependent on the friction of the wood you're using. some woods are glassier than others. my experience is on a sanded pine kind of wood. also of note, wood will be sticker with a little moisture, so the weather you're hanging the board in will also affect it. 25 is prob where you want to start as a good warm up sloper. 35 is relatively difficult but not too bad. 45 will feel absolutely impossible to you without a lot of nestle for a long ass time. as you approach the 45, it doesn't really get incrementally harder, it gets exponentially harder. so an increase from 35 to 36 will be easier than an increase from 44-45. good luck crankin
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mandryd
Mar 1, 2010, 2:13 AM
Post #7 of 16
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lol. let me know how that 55 goes. i don't think even chris sharma could hold a 55 degree sloper unless he put sandpaper on top. for bare wood, i think the tops is around 48 for sickly strong climbers. since you're a 5.12+ climber, i wouldn't go above 45.
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scalder
Mar 1, 2010, 2:36 AM
Post #8 of 16
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Fair enough :) On second thought, should probably do 35 and 45 and put the 55 on hold for a while. Would prob be more useful to have that fingertip size ledge. I'll let you know when I can do 55 degrees. lol. - steve
mandryd wrote: lol. let me know how that 55 goes. i don't think even chris sharma could hold a 55 degree sloper unless he put sandpaper on top. for bare wood, i think the tops is around 48 for sickly strong climbers. since you're a 5.12+ climber, i wouldn't go above 45.
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headchop
Mar 1, 2010, 3:02 PM
Post #9 of 16
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Definitely try hanging on what you have with added weight - but be sure to add the weight slowly. A harness, biner and sling should all the gear you really need. And some weights, of course.
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scalder
Mar 1, 2010, 9:37 PM
Post #10 of 16
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I guess in the area of 5lbs at a time would be considered slowly?
headchop wrote: Definitely try hanging on what you have with added weight - but be sure to add the weight slowly. A harness, biner and sling should all the gear you really need. And some weights, of course.
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whipper
Mar 2, 2010, 12:42 AM
Post #11 of 16
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sorry, but I do gotta say...it is a joist you are using, not a joice
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dudemanbu
Mar 2, 2010, 2:42 AM
Post #12 of 16
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Registered: Jun 3, 2005
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scalder wrote: I guess in the area of 5lbs at a time would be considered slowly? headchop wrote: Definitely try hanging on what you have with added weight - but be sure to add the weight slowly. A harness, biner and sling should all the gear you really need. And some weights, of course. I'll start with the disclaimer that this is not advice, only a personal experience. I don't even notice added weight until around 15 lbs. I think this is because I'm used to climbing with the weight of my rack on my harness. So when I do weighted campusing/hanging, i usually add the 10 lb weight vest and 2 5 lb ankle weights, and add from there. My recommendation to you is if you're used to climbing with a rack, you can probably start with more than just 5 lbs. If you've never done hypergravity of any kind before, 5 lbs might not be a bad place to start.
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scalder
Mar 2, 2010, 3:49 AM
Post #13 of 16
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lol I guess that kinda blows my cover as some sort of master craftsman. Duly noted.
whipper wrote: sorry, but I do gotta say...it is a joist you are using, not a joice
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scalder
Mar 2, 2010, 3:55 AM
Post #14 of 16
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Haven't done much hypergravity stuff so I think I'll start light and if it's really easy just add from there. Thanks for the helpful comments! - steve
dudemanbu wrote: scalder wrote: I guess in the area of 5lbs at a time would be considered slowly? headchop wrote: Definitely try hanging on what you have with added weight - but be sure to add the weight slowly. A harness, biner and sling should all the gear you really need. And some weights, of course. I'll start with the disclaimer that this is not advice, only a personal experience. I don't even notice added weight until around 15 lbs. I think this is because I'm used to climbing with the weight of my rack on my harness. So when I do weighted campusing/hanging, i usually add the 10 lb weight vest and 2 5 lb ankle weights, and add from there. My recommendation to you is if you're used to climbing with a rack, you can probably start with more than just 5 lbs. If you've never done hypergravity of any kind before, 5 lbs might not be a bad place to start.
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scalder
May 10, 2010, 12:23 AM
Post #15 of 16
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Registered: Feb 28, 2010
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So I ended up building my hangboard. Photo is attached. Thanks to everyone who helped out with advice! Before I built it I did my regular routine with a weight belt, and that helped, but decided I wanted to be able to note down precicely what angles I was training on, as with the slopers I have up there obviously the angles change depending on where you grab it. I've been using it for a couple of weeks now, and have noticed some good results, so I'm pretty stoked. I've only been playing on the 40 and 45 degree holds - I wasn't going to put a 50 up there but when you cut a 40 you get a 50 as bonus, so threw it up there to see how hard it would be. Too hard for now, but something to work towards anyway. - steve
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jto
May 12, 2010, 8:00 AM
Post #16 of 16
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Registered: Sep 18, 2004
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for every hangboard in the market or a self made one: attach it into a tiltable board so you can multiply the amount of holds used. also the usually too easy hangboard slopers can be made ridiculously difficult.
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