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ShyneeThings
Mar 2, 2010, 7:41 AM
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Hello all. I have been doing a bit of brief research on climbing shoes primarily for gym climbing (maybe 1 or 2 climbs outdoors max) and while I like the idea of having velcro, I am concerned about the longevity of it's hold over many many wears or if it ever comes undone with sloppy footwork when it might catch on a hold, crack, etc. Being less than 6 months into the sport, my footwork is far from precise, so I know that I wear on shoes somewhat hard.
What have your experiences been with velcro shoes vs tie shoes? Thanks!
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Grizvok
Mar 2, 2010, 7:47 AM
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Velcro will be fine, imo.
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i_h8_choss
Mar 2, 2010, 9:48 AM
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ShyneeThings wrote: Hello all. I have been doing a bit of brief research on climbing shoes primarily for gym climbing (maybe 1 or 2 climbs outdoors max) and while I like the idea of having velcro, I am concerned about the longevity of it's hold over many many wears or if it ever comes undone with sloppy footwork when it might catch on a hold, crack, etc. Being less than 6 months into the sport, my footwork is far from precise, so I know that I wear on shoes somewhat hard. What have your experiences been with velcro shoes vs tie shoes? Thanks!
In my first 3-4 years of my climbing, I've tried these velcro shoes:
mad rock flash
evolv defy
red chilli spirit impact
la sportiva katanas
the katanas fit tight. they were 43.5 and I wear a 45.5 street shoe. I liked the velcro. It was fine. In the other 3 pairs of shoes, the velcro stretched too far and sometimes I would add more velcro with super glue or just cut off the extra velcro flap that wasn't being used. These 3 pair were all 1 to 2 sizes smaller than my street shoe. I have pretty long and skinny feet. velcro was not my friend, so for the last 4 years I've only worn lace ups and slippers made by 5.10 & lasportiva and I have a pair of mad rock. I was thinknig of trying an evolv shoe again. I liked how they are soft. I'd probably get the pontas lace ups. I think velcro shoes work better for people with wide feet. there I said it
If you have a wider foot, Id so go for the velcro. I climb mostly outside, but have climbed a lot in gyms lately and I like a tight slipper for the gym
good luck
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I_do
Mar 2, 2010, 9:54 AM
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ShyneeThings wrote: Hello all. I have been doing a bit of brief research on climbing shoes primarily for gym climbing (maybe 1 or 2 climbs outdoors max) and while I like the idea of having velcro, I am concerned about the longevity of it's hold over many many wears or if it ever comes undone with sloppy footwork when it might catch on a hold, crack, etc. Being less than 6 months into the sport, my footwork is far from precise, so I know that I wear on shoes somewhat hard. What have your experiences been with velcro shoes vs tie shoes? Thanks!
You definately don't need to worry about the velcro, I've had boreal spider velcro's but now go with katana's I think the speed of adjustment more then makes up nfor the occasional snag on a hold. Although those are really rare and don't really bother me indoors either.
Just make sure you get a pair of shoes that fit you nice and aren't overly aggresive and don't worry about the closing system IMO.
Cheers
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geezergecko
Mar 2, 2010, 1:11 PM
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Having gone through dozens of velcro rock shoes over the past decade, I've found that the velcro is the last thing to go. Usually the rubber goes first, but that can be resoled, and then you wear holes through the toe box. Wear them long enough and the velcro will be the last thing standing.
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blueeyedclimber
Mar 2, 2010, 1:38 PM
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ShyneeThings wrote: Hello all. I have been doing a bit of brief research on climbing shoes primarily for gym climbing (maybe 1 or 2 climbs outdoors max) and while I like the idea of having velcro, I am concerned about the longevity of it's hold over many many wears or if it ever comes undone with sloppy footwork when it might catch on a hold, crack, etc. Being less than 6 months into the sport, my footwork is far from precise, so I know that I wear on shoes somewhat hard. What have your experiences been with velcro shoes vs tie shoes? Thanks!
IMO, out of all the velcro shoes, just talking about the velcro aspect, the katanas are the best. The velcro on the shoe part is a larger area so it spreads out the wear and will last longer. But, unless you are planning on getting the shoes resoled, then the rubber will probably go before the velcro does (especially if you are a beginner). As a beginner, you are probably better off with something like the Madrock flash. They are cheaper and are a good beginner shoe. They will not last as long, but once you learn technique you will probably want to upgrade. The Katanas are almost twice as expensive, but ARE a better shoe.
So my advice is,
1. When starting out, buy a cheap shoe. Your bad technique is going to destroy any shoe, so why pay more for this process.
2. If you gym has any shoe demos, try as many shoes as you can so you can figure out what fits your feet.
3. Once you have a little technique and experience and have found what shoes you like and fit well, spend a little more and then resole them as many times as you can get away with. I usually resole a shoe 2 or 3 times before I buy new ones.
Josh
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Ammex
Mar 2, 2010, 2:38 PM
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I started out with with some lace-ups because they were uber cheap, but switched to velcro ASAP (about 2-3 months later) and went right into a pair of Anasazi Velcros. Even at my whopping level of projecting V1s, the Anasazis added tons of confidence and allowed my better-than-me climbing friends teach me some specifics. I only agree with the 'buy cheap' mentality if it is literally your first pair of shoes and you don't know if you'll be in the sport for long. Once you know it's something that you want to do you might as well drop the extra couple bucks for something half decent, but still pick something that suits what you are going to be doing for a while. Anasazis and Katanas would both fall in to this category. They aren't aggressive but are slightly asymetrical and have reasonably thick rubber for you to chew away at. I just bought my wife a pair of Anasazi LVs as her very first pair of shoes and she is trying her best to shred rubber with terrible footwork but they are still holding up okay for the time being and will be around for atleast 2 resoles.
As for velcro wearing out, the only shoes that I consistently hear velcro problems about are the Miura VS. Seems to wear out before the rest of the shoe does and toe hooks can sometimes pull the bottom strap open. That being said, they will still be my next pair of shoes but you shouldn't be in a shoe like that for a while so, go velcro go. I'm a long way off of needing that super sock-like fit of lace-ups and the convenience of velcro is nice. I'll definitely be staying velcro for a few years yet.
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j_ung
Mar 2, 2010, 2:47 PM
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I'm a Velcro believer, too. However, I have had a few issues with the stuff over the years.
1. First of all, while it is possible for Velcro to quit working, it's rare. The only shoes I've ever known to have a problem with that are some generations of a few models of Montrail shoes, especially the later version of the Wasabi. But they don't even make climbing shoes anymore, so no worries.
2. I've had issues every once in a while (mostly with older 5.10 Anasazi Velcroes) when the buckles dig into my toe knuckles while crack climbing. However, I think shoe companies have mostly addressed that in recent years, plus you're in the gym, so no big deal.
3. I have had Velcro come undone before when one foot brushes another and the hook tab of one shoe catches the eye patch of the other. I solved that one myself by trimming my Velcro tabs down so I don't have any excess hanging off. Be careful if you do this, though. Take note of the stitching pattern in your tabs. If you trim them, you might have to either melt or re-stitch (or both!) the ends so they don't fray.
None of this, IMO, is reason enough not to buy a Velcro shoe. I think Velcroes are an excellent balance between convenience and precision fit.
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lena_chita
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Mar 2, 2010, 2:58 PM
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Other than some Montrails that my friends had with bad velcro, I have not heard of most people having any trouble with velcro shoes.
I personally have only tried one velcro shoes-- Evolv Elektra. I could never get satisfyingly snug fit with velcro, but it was more the result of my foot being narrow, than the velcro problem. The shoes have been resoled, and the velcro was still in great condition.
So, bottom line: go for it.
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shockabuku
Mar 2, 2010, 4:08 PM
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I have the La Sportiva Miura VS. After close to a year of ~3 days/week gym climbing in them (off and on a lot) the velcro has gotten to the point where it will open itself when I flex my foot if I don't make sure to really massage the straps into place. Rarely do the straps get in the way or hook on other things. My daughter has the same shoe, same problem over about the same amount of time. We both really, really like them.
My daughter also has a pair of Scarpa Feroce velcro shoes. She's had them about 3 or 4 months, the velcro is already refusing to hold.
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patmay81
Mar 2, 2010, 4:41 PM
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I have 2 or 3 pairs of velcro's. the rubber will blow out before the velcro even starts to get old. you can probably even go through several resoles before the velcro wears at all. they are a great option for people who climb short sport routes, boulder, or pull plastic; since they wear snugger (on me) than most slipper style and they are just as fast and easy to take on/off.
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mrtristan
Mar 2, 2010, 5:11 PM
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I had a pair of velcro Boreals and didn't like them. The velcro came undone several times mid-climb, and they were no good for cracks.
That was several years ago so maybe things are better now...?
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mturner
Mar 3, 2010, 6:16 AM
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i_h8_choss wrote: I was thinknig of trying an evolv shoe again. I liked how they are soft. I'd probably get the pontas lace ups.
Not to get this off topic, but the Pontas Lace are very stiff compared to the Defy. If you're looking for a soft fit in terms of flexibility I would go with the Kaos II Lace, which has a much softer midsole. If you mean soft as in comfort on the inside of the shoe then really nothing comes close to the Defy but you might try the Bandit.
As for Velcros, to me the convenience has always outweighed the more secure fit. And like someone else said, the rubber wears out faster than the Velcro.
(This post was edited by mturner on Mar 3, 2010, 6:18 AM)
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jeepnphreak
Mar 3, 2010, 8:44 PM
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ShyneeThings wrote: Hello all. I have been doing a bit of brief research on climbing shoes primarily for gym climbing (maybe 1 or 2 climbs outdoors max) and while I like the idea of having velcro, I am concerned about the longevity of it's hold over many many wears or if it ever comes undone with sloppy footwork when it might catch on a hold, crack, etc. Being less than 6 months into the sport, my footwork is far from precise, so I know that I wear on shoes somewhat hard. What have your experiences been with velcro shoes vs tie shoes? Thanks!
When I started climbing I burned through two pairs of 5.10 ascents. With both pairs the rubber ware out before the velcroe did.
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qtm
Mar 4, 2010, 12:40 AM
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I've worn velcro shoes for the last 9 years; a couple pairs of 5.10 anasazis, mad rock mugens, and several pairs of acopa cameleons. A few of them I've had resoled, but never more than once. No problems with the velcro losing grip.
I've seen some velcro straps delaminate from the backing, which seriously affects how tight you can crank them down. Have to re-glue or sew them together.
The only issue is throwing them in your pack, they can get caught up with slings and fuzz them up. Don't think it's a big issue with the slings, but you don't want to put them in there with a knit hat or sweater.
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caughtinside
Mar 4, 2010, 12:52 AM
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Velcro:
I have an old pair of Katanas where the velcro stopped working while the 2nd or 3rd resole was dying. I got good use out of them.
Strap... I sawed through the strap that holds the metal buckle that holds teh strap crack climbing on some katanas. The front buckle on the katanas is on the outside of the foot, higher wear than the inside. Got it sewn back on by a cobbler. I don't climb much crack in velcros any more, almost all lace up and slipper.
Strap... I trimmed the straps on katanas shorter because they come ridiculously long, and the backing started delaming from the velcro material. No big deal, glued it back together myself. Wish they had shorter straps and leather backing like the women's katanas.
strap... be sure to keep the velcro closures closed in your pack, otherwise the hooks catch on slings and stuff and fuzz things up, sucky.
Mad rock and others I think use off brand velcro which wears out faster... but they are cheap shoes anyway and you're better off just buying new shoes and not resoling. A well made shoe will hold up for a lot of resoles from a good cobbler.
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curt
Mar 4, 2010, 4:18 AM
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ShyneeThings wrote: Hello all. I have been doing a bit of brief research on climbing shoes primarily for gym climbing (maybe 1 or 2 climbs outdoors max) and while I like the idea of having velcro, I am concerned about the longevity of it's hold over many many wears or if it ever comes undone with sloppy footwork when it might catch on a hold, crack, etc. Being less than 6 months into the sport, my footwork is far from precise, so I know that I wear on shoes somewhat hard. What have your experiences been with velcro shoes vs tie shoes? Thanks!
Learn how to tie your shoes. It's never too late--and will pay off in the long run.
Curt
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suprasoup
Mar 4, 2010, 6:37 AM
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curt wrote: ShyneeThings wrote: Hello all. I have been doing a bit of brief research on climbing shoes primarily for gym climbing (maybe 1 or 2 climbs outdoors max) and while I like the idea of having velcro, I am concerned about the longevity of it's hold over many many wears or if it ever comes undone with sloppy footwork when it might catch on a hold, crack, etc. Being less than 6 months into the sport, my footwork is far from precise, so I know that I wear on shoes somewhat hard. What have your experiences been with velcro shoes vs tie shoes? Thanks! Learn how to tie your shoes. It's never too late--and will pay off in the long run. Curt
Now I know why I never sent any of your problems at Groom Creek. 
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ShyneeThings
Mar 4, 2010, 8:00 AM
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thanks everyone for the feedback!
as for the learning to tie shoes.... shoot. well is it bunny ear bunny ear loop-dee-loop? mmmmmmm this might take awhile :P
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bill413
Mar 4, 2010, 1:31 PM
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ShyneeThings wrote: thanks everyone for the feedback! as for the learning to tie shoes.... shoot. well is it bunny ear bunny ear loop-dee-loop? mmmmmmm this might take awhile :P
Ummm...When we said "slippers" we didn't mean furry animal ones. 
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curt
Mar 5, 2010, 4:38 AM
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suprasoup wrote: curt wrote: ShyneeThings wrote: Hello all. I have been doing a bit of brief research on climbing shoes primarily for gym climbing (maybe 1 or 2 climbs outdoors max) and while I like the idea of having velcro, I am concerned about the longevity of it's hold over many many wears or if it ever comes undone with sloppy footwork when it might catch on a hold, crack, etc. Being less than 6 months into the sport, my footwork is far from precise, so I know that I wear on shoes somewhat hard. What have your experiences been with velcro shoes vs tie shoes? Thanks! Learn how to tie your shoes. It's never too late--and will pay off in the long run. Curt Now I know why I never sent any of your problems at Groom Creek.
Those are just "old people" problems. They may not have been repeated yet by anyone under the age of 40. 
Curt
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Jtbo
Mar 5, 2010, 8:08 AM
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I think the only thing about velcro that you need to worry about is the extra ounces of fuzz that gets stuck to it...
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mya81
Mar 8, 2010, 3:58 AM
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Hiya,
One of the other posters has already mentioned it, you'll probably go through your rubber before there'll be any issues with the velcro straps loosing grip.
Also, I've find velcro closure systems oftenly used in shoes that are more sensitive.
You're spot on about footwork being far from precise when you're a beginner. As such you'll probably benefit from shoes with soles that are stiffer where the rubber is much harder. Your feet will receive more support, which is want you want when you are just starting out.
I have found that entry level shoes are usually lace ups.
Shoe shopping is fun!
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astubble
Mar 29, 2010, 6:00 PM
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I own a pair of Mad Rock Flash climbing shoes, and they have velcro straps instead of laces. I can't speak for longevity (I've only owned them for a couple of months), but I've come to really appreciate them over laced shoes.
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