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gblauer
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Mar 22, 2010, 3:11 AM
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We saw the victim in the Mohonk truck on the way to the ambulance.
It was the talk of the cliff on Saturday.
Actually I don't have any of the facts, but, this is what told to me by several people in the vacinity of the climb.
Climber was on Agape or Ape and Essence (near classic/Jackie). She was being lowered by her belayer who was above at the top of the first pitch. Belayer apparently was lowering her without the benefit of a belay device. It was stated that he was lowering her using a biner only (no munter). As she cleared the roof, the friction in the system became non existent and he dropped the climber. She hit the her non helmeted head and then hit the tree on her way down. Some people suggest that the tree actually slowed her down enough for her belayer to gain control of the rope. Her belayer caught her 5 feet off the deck.
It was said that the belayer had 2nd/3rd degree burns on his hands. The climber had a head laceration and a hurt hip.
Again, I only saw the victim being transported. I only heard this from several climbers who were nearby.
I hope climber is ok and that the belayer recovers the use of his hands (and gets a belay device).
(This post was edited by gblauer on Mar 22, 2010, 3:14 AM)
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TheRucat
Mar 22, 2010, 3:49 AM
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Wow, sounds almost as bad as that rope cutting fiasco on High E a while back. Hope they recover. If your description turns out to be accurate thats just sad. I can't begin to imagine what the hell was going on.
(This post was edited by TheRucat on Mar 22, 2010, 3:50 AM)
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jt512
Mar 22, 2010, 4:33 AM
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gblauer wrote: I hope climber is ok and that the belayer recovers the use of his hands (and gets a belay device).
This line says so much!
Jay
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agdavis
Mar 22, 2010, 4:39 AM
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gblauer wrote: We saw the victim in the Mohonk truck on the way to the ambulance. It was the talk of the cliff on Saturday. Actually I don't have any of the facts, but, this is what told to me by several people in the vacinity of the climb. Climber was on Agape or Ape and Essence (near classic/Jackie). She was being lowered by her belayer who was above at the top of the first pitch. Belayer apparently was lowering her without the benefit of a belay device. It was stated that he was lowering her using a biner only (no munter). As she cleared the roof, the friction in the system became non existent and he dropped the climber. She hit the her non helmeted head and then hit the tree on her way down. Some people suggest that the tree actually slowed her down enough for her belayer to gain control of the rope. Her belayer caught her 5 feet off the deck. It was said that the belayer had 2nd/3rd degree burns on his hands. The climber had a head laceration and a hurt hip. Again, I only saw the victim being transported. I only heard this from several climbers who were nearby. I hope climber is ok and that the belayer recovers the use of his hands (and gets a belay device).
People are fucking morons. Enough said.
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jt512
Mar 22, 2010, 4:43 AM
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agdavis wrote: People are fucking morons.
Is that legal?
Jay
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milesenoell
Mar 22, 2010, 6:19 AM
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I've read about people catching a fall by just grabbing the rope before, but it just sounds totally inconceivable to me. Not just the pain of mangling your hands, but simply how much grip it would take to provide that kind of friction. I mean think about how slick your melted, bloody, destroyed hands would be after 20 or so feet have slid through your hands as you try to exert your full grip on the line. Despite sounding like a gumby mistake, I have to be impressed by the catch having been made at all. Especially since it was to save someone else's ass, rather than just self-preservation.
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bill413
Mar 22, 2010, 1:24 PM
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jt512 wrote: agdavis wrote: People are fucking morons. Is that legal? Jay
Apparently so, in many states.
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smallclimber
Mar 22, 2010, 6:04 PM
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How weird, they must have had a belay device to have climbed in the first place, why would you not use it to lower?
And what a waste of a beautiful day in the Gunks, if only every weekend this year will be like the last one....if you're going to get dropped do it at the end of the season.
Is your toe better or were you just watching the action?
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gblauer
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Mar 22, 2010, 6:35 PM
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smallclimber wrote: Is your toe better or were you just watching the action?
I had to use very creative foot placement; my toes are truly terrible. It's too early to climb, I am not recovered enough.
In the mean time, I am looking for a super stiff shoe and Mitch is trying to make me carbon fiber inserts for my shoes.
I see the doctor on the 1st, I am hoping he can give me some shred of hope. It seems to me that 3.5 months should me a more than adequate recovery and and I still worse off than when I went in for the surgery to begin with.
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j_ung
Mar 22, 2010, 6:40 PM
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I know what you mean, gblauer. My back has been a bit of a problem the last month or so. It's not exactly how i wanted things to be going right about now.
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agdavis
Mar 22, 2010, 7:08 PM
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jt512 wrote: agdavis wrote: People are fucking morons. Is that legal? Jay
Is what legal?
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edge
Mar 22, 2010, 7:14 PM
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In reply to: I know what you mean, gblauer. My back has been a bit of a problem the last month or so. It's not exactly how i wanted things to be going right about now.
Jay, if you would like me to fabricate something to make you feel better, send me a PM.
Sure it will be a piece of furniture made out of wood, but supporting starving artists always makes people feel better...
I'll even carry it indoors for you upon delivery.
(This post was edited by edge on Mar 22, 2010, 7:28 PM)
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j_ung
Mar 22, 2010, 7:28 PM
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edge wrote: Jay, if you would like me to fabricate something to make you feel better, send me a PM. Sure it will be a piece of furniture made out of wood, but supporting starving artists always makes people feel better... I'll even carry it indoors for you upon delivery.
 I forgot what thread this was and, for a second, I thought you were flaming me. Gimme a little time to get my financial situation in order, edge, and I may actually take you up on that.
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cracklover
Mar 22, 2010, 7:29 PM
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What a bizarre story. Raises so many more questions.
GO
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bandycoot
Mar 22, 2010, 7:38 PM
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smallclimber wrote: How weird, they must have had a belay device to have climbed in the first place, why would you not use it to lower?
You're making a rather large assumption that they had a belay device to get there in the first place.
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gblauer
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Mar 22, 2010, 7:45 PM
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bandycoot wrote: You're making a rather large assumption that they had a belay device to get there in the first place.
Yeah I once watched a guy "belaying" his wife doing top rope laps up Fancy Idiot at the Gunks...he never used a belay device...just held the rope in his hands. Not even a hip belay.
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styndall
Mar 22, 2010, 8:01 PM
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gblauer wrote: bandycoot wrote: You're making a rather large assumption that they had a belay device to get there in the first place. Yeah I once watched a guy "belaying" his wife doing top rope laps up Fancy Idiot at the Gunks...he never used a belay device...just held the rope in his hands. Not even a hip belay.
If she was doing laps, how did he lower her? Just hand over hand?
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jt512
Mar 22, 2010, 8:02 PM
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agdavis wrote: jt512 wrote: agdavis wrote: People are fucking morons. Is that legal? Jay Is what legal?
Fucking morons.
Jay
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gblauer
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Mar 22, 2010, 8:12 PM
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styndall wrote: If she was doing laps, how did he lower her? Just hand over hand?
Mostly he did it hand over hand, occastionally he would lower using belay device. (She would climb up, then he would put her on belay).
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styndall
Mar 22, 2010, 9:01 PM
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That's completely insane.
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jsh
Mar 22, 2010, 11:37 PM
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Interesting. I heard from two different parties that a reverso was used (tho, evidently not correctly). I also heard that the belayer was beyond devastated.
The Ape Call accident sounds fairly serious, and I wouldn't compare it to the High E hijinks of last year.
However, the "false alarm" I heard about from Saturday, in which "a harness came off", may well give the High E thing a run for its money. I heard about that secondhand too (albeit from the people who helped rescue the idiots in question), so I won't repeat it myself, outside of saying: gym climbers.
Gail, I'm so sorry your feet aren't better (yet)!
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gblauer
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Mar 22, 2010, 11:41 PM
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jsh wrote: so I won't repeat it myself, outside of saying: gym climbers. Gail, I'm so sorry your feet aren't better (yet)!
I felt like the entire Trapps was populated by gym climbers. It seemed like everyone and their dog/baby/stroller/kid was out climbing this past weekend. Taking up bolted anchors for TRing, so that no one could rap on climbs etc. It was quite the weekend.
Thanks for the foot thing...I am very discouraged right now.
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Gmburns2000
Mar 22, 2010, 11:54 PM
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gblauer wrote: jsh wrote: so I won't repeat it myself, outside of saying: gym climbers. Gail, I'm so sorry your feet aren't better (yet)! I felt like the entire Trapps was populated by gym climbers. It seemed like everyone and their dog/baby/stroller/kid was out climbing this past weekend. Taking up bolted anchors for TRing, so that no one could rap on climbs etc. It was quite the weekend. Thanks for the foot thing...I am very discouraged right now.
keep your head up Gail, your better days will come and you'll thoroughly enjoy them when they do.
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ClimbClimb
Mar 23, 2010, 6:45 PM
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jsh wrote: Interesting. I heard from two different parties that a reverso was used (tho, evidently not correctly). I also heard that the belayer was beyond devastated.
Sounds like there may be more to the story and seems more believable.. Why not give people benefit of the doubt, instead of proclaiming them "morons" when both are seriously hurt and one is probably feeling as down as a person can?
Anyone have more details?
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