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doyle
Mar 30, 2010, 12:59 AM
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Registered: Apr 13, 2009
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My brother and I are coming to Red Rock the middle of April and I have a few questions I am sure any local climber can answer.
1. Are the approaches long enough generally that backpacks and stuff can be left at the base of the crag without concern of theft? If not, is the terrain such that it can be stashed nearby or do you need to hike in with only what you take up the crag?
2. How much water do we need to hall up the crag with us in April typically on say a 7-8 pitch climb? Consider we are not familiar with the rock and assume we will lead slowly so I would assume this would be close to an all day climb.
3. If anyone has suggestion on other things to carry while going up a 7+ pitch climb I am all ears my current list is the following (excluding rack, rope, shoes, harness) is the following
Small first aid kit
Light rain jacket
Water
Food
Small tarp
Thanks for your help in advance please feel free to add any additional comments you think might help for someone who has not climbed at Red Rock and that dont have experience in climbs over 3-4 pitches
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dugl33
Mar 30, 2010, 1:32 AM
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Registered: Oct 6, 2009
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doyle wrote: My brother and I are coming to Red Rock the middle of April and I have a few questions I am sure any local climber can answer. 1. Are the approaches long enough generally that backpacks and stuff can be left at the base of the crag without concern of theft? If not, is the terrain such that it can be stashed nearby or do you need to hike in with only what you take up the crag? usually you can leave your pack without issues: most areas with very close access are one pitch, so you're close to your gear. Multi pitch routes usually have long-ish approaches, so only other climbers who in my experience (knock on wood) are 100% trustworthy. 2. How much water do we need to hall up the crag with us in April typically on say a 7-8 pitch climb? Consider we are not familiar with the rock and assume we will lead slowly so I would assume this would be close to an all day climb. 1 to 2 liters each on the climb, with an extra liter each at the base 3. If anyone has suggestion on other things to carry while going up a 7+ pitch climb I am all ears my current list is the following (excluding rack, rope, shoes, harness) is the following Small first aid kit leave at the base Light rain jacket very light, maybe a light fleece too Water Food power bar, nuts, sandwich Small tarp skip it
* small headlamp, mandatory, each person, with you on the climb
*small pocket knife
*sunscreen
*lighter
I've had good results carrying a small camel-pack type pack on multi-pitch, with water, headlamp with fresh batteries, food, lighter, climbing tape, small knife, sunscreen.
When I remember to do so, I also take an extra t-shirt, at least if i'm wearing cotton. Sweat on the hike in, put on the dry shirt and other layers as appropriate, start climbing. Recently picked up a ultralight wool long sleeve shirt from patagonia -- awesome. Also, i'd rather lead with a small pack (both climbers with small pack) than follow with a heavy pack thats got water and food for two people.
Thanks for your help in advance please feel free to add any additional comments you think might help for someone who has not climbed at Red Rock and that dont have experience in climbs over 3-4 pitches
(This post was edited by dugl33 on Mar 30, 2010, 1:46 AM)
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maldaly
Mar 30, 2010, 2:26 AM
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Registered: Oct 31, 2002
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All I can add to dugl33's advice would be:
You probably don't need a rain jacket. Check the weather and if something unexpected comes in, it will be quick and you'll dry fast. A good wind shirt/softshell with a decent DWR is all you need.
I always carry a Marmot DriClime shirt. It's the perfect second layer and combined with the above wind/softshell, you'll be fine.
I carry two headlamps. A Petzl eLite for the route, and then a Petzl Myo XP for the approach/return leg. The theory is to have a super-duper beam for finding the ground route and then a small compact light that is adequate for the climbing. This, of course, is if you are planning on climbing during the daylight hours. If you plan on climbing in the dark you will want a brighter headlamp for the route.
The descents can be tricky. Do everything you can to make them happen in the daylight.
The desert can be frickin' cold. If your climb is in the shade you may want a puffy of some kind to share on the route. Lead in blocks and share belay jacket.
Best,
Mal
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critterdude542
Mar 30, 2010, 2:53 AM
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Registered: Oct 19, 2008
Posts: 32
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hey there, i just got back from my first trip to red rocks.
I would definitely bring the rain jacket, not so much for the rain, more for the wind. We just got back from a week there and 2 of the days there were really high winds which made the 60 degree temps feel much lower as well as belays pretty gusty.
I climbed with a camelback and it worked fine, kept my rain jacket, headlamp, camera, food, and 2 liters of water in it. I didnt notice the weight, i took it off at belays too and clipped it somewhere on the anchor. you could bring less water in it if you have some extra at the base.
Ditch the tarp,
Be careful on multipitch routes with short approaches. I met a guy from Canada there who had most of his rack stolen when they were at the top of the first pitch. If you have to hike in a reasonable distance, just stash your pack by the base of the climb off in some bushes or something. Nobody messed with any of our stuff, mostly cause they dont want to walk that far and the approaches suck!
have a great time!
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