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jynckx


Mar 31, 2010, 5:06 AM
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"free solo" with a rope...
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I just ordered a soloist by wren industries. It will allow me to climb lead by myself (sport, trad, aid, TR, etc.). If I send a 5.12a, can I say I free soloed it? Technically I am free climbing, with one person (solo), so it is a free solo. Free solo has come to mean sans rope, but the term free solo only implies free climbing with 1 person. What should it be called if I send a route on self belay? It is definitely burlier than sending with a proper sport belay...


csproul


Mar 31, 2010, 5:14 AM
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Re: [jynckx] "free solo" with a rope... [In reply to]
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rope solo


johnwesely


Mar 31, 2010, 5:29 AM
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Re: [jynckx] "free solo" with a rope... [In reply to]
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jynckx wrote:
I just ordered a soloist by wren industries. It will allow me to climb lead by myself (sport, trad, aid, TR, etc.). If I send a 5.12a, can I say I free soloed it? Technically I am free climbing, with one person (solo), so it is a free solo. Free solo has come to mean sans rope, but the term free solo only implies free climbing with 1 person. What should it be called if I send a route on self belay? It is definitely burlier than sending with a proper sport belay...

Quote for posterity.


d.vonk


Mar 31, 2010, 6:29 AM
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Re: [jynckx] "free solo" with a rope... [In reply to]
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Free solo is you the rock and nothing else. Period.
Your send would be a rope solo. Period.

D.


shoo


Mar 31, 2010, 6:49 AM
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Re: [jynckx] "free solo" with a rope... [In reply to]
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Typically, what you are climbing would be called "roped solo."

Always hated the term "free solo" for exactly this reason. In climbing jargon, "free" means without aid. Solo means without a partner. Somehow, the combination gets the no aid and no partner aspects, but somehow automatically means protectionless as well.

I understand that climbing jargon is different than popular vernacular. However, it would be nice to have consistency within our own language, no?


jaablink


Mar 31, 2010, 7:31 AM
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Re: [jynckx] "free solo" with a rope... [In reply to]
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Free Solo - v. To free climb without a rope and without protection. A fall is likely to result in serious injury or death.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._Dictionary_528.html




marc801


Mar 31, 2010, 8:34 AM
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jynckx wrote:
Free solo has come to mean sans rope,...
Yeah, only "recently", like 35 years ago. It's not a new term or new concept.


jynckx


Mar 31, 2010, 5:07 PM
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Re: [marc801] "free solo" with a rope... [In reply to]
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I disagree with the posts above. Rope solo implies aid, as that is the way most people rope solo. Also, there is nothing in the term rope solo that says you are free climbing, not aid. So, I think rope solo is not an appropriate term. Maybe rope free solo...


johnwesely


Mar 31, 2010, 5:20 PM
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Re: [jynckx] "free solo" with a rope... [In reply to]
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jynckx wrote:
I disagree with the posts above. Rope solo implies aid, as that is the way most people rope solo. Also, there is nothing in the term rope solo that says you are free climbing, not aid. So, I think rope solo is not an appropriate term. Maybe rope free solo...

I disagree. When I hear rope solo, I think free. When I hear aid rope solo, I think aid.


jt512


Mar 31, 2010, 5:41 PM
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Re: [jynckx] "free solo" with a rope... [In reply to]
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jynckx wrote:
I disagree with the posts above. Rope solo implies aid, as that is the way most people rope solo.

Nope. "Roped solo" has meant a self-belayed, free climb for as long as I can remember. An aid solo is known as an "aid solo," oddly enough.

Jay


marc801


Mar 31, 2010, 5:43 PM
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Re: [jynckx] "free solo" with a rope... [In reply to]
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jynckx wrote:
I disagree with the posts above. Rope solo implies aid, as that is the way most people rope solo. Also, there is nothing in the term rope solo that says you are free climbing, not aid. So, I think rope solo is not an appropriate term. Maybe rope free solo...
Hubris much? We all love how you think your opinion carries more weight than decades of historic usage.


davidnn5


Mar 31, 2010, 5:48 PM
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Re: [jynckx] "free solo" with a rope... [In reply to]
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Call it super-duper rope free solo onsight bestest evar and be done with it.

Did it occur to you that as you won't be climbing with anyone, there's no need to name it at all?

Of course, that would violate the 'make oneself sound cool' principle. So see above for best term.

For some reason, I always have to add words I've missed lately. Damnit!


(This post was edited by davidnn5 on Mar 31, 2010, 5:58 PM)


notapplicable


Mar 31, 2010, 6:32 PM
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jynckx wrote:
...free solo...on self belay?

Your doing it wrong


airscape


Apr 6, 2010, 6:15 AM
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Re: [d.vonk] "free solo" with a rope... [In reply to]
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d.vonk wrote:
Free solo is you the rock and nothing else. Period.
Your send would be a rope solo. Period.

D.

You have like 7 periods in that post.

Here.... have a tampon.


dingus


Apr 6, 2010, 6:49 AM
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Re: ] "free solo" with a rope... [In reply to]
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I call it Marmalade.

You should too.

DMT


meanandugly


Apr 6, 2010, 8:23 AM
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Re: [jynckx] "free solo" with a rope... [In reply to]
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Here's some trems for you:

Top-rope solo
Sport solo
Trad solo
Aid solo
Masturbation


moose_droppings


Apr 6, 2010, 9:33 AM
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meanandugly wrote:
Here's some trems for you:

Top-rope solo
Sport solo
Trad solo
Aid solo
Masturbation

Roped masturbation
Aid masturbation
Roped solo masturbation
Team masturbation
Sport masturbation


dingus


Apr 6, 2010, 9:34 AM
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Re: [moose_droppings] "free solo" with a rope... [In reply to]
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Here are interesting terms...

'climbing'

'climbed'

DMT


(This post was edited by dingus on Apr 6, 2010, 9:35 AM)


fresh


Apr 6, 2010, 9:49 AM
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Re: [jynckx] "free solo" with a rope... [In reply to]
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does it strike anyone how insane it would be to rope solo a 12a?


patmay81


Apr 6, 2010, 11:26 AM
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Re: [fresh] "free solo" with a rope... [In reply to]
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For me to rope solo any where near my otherwise onsight grade is insane. I enjoy long 5.6-8 rope solos, but even the thought of a single pitch of 5.11 rope solo, fussing with the gear, rope, belay device, anchors... no, it will give me nightmares!


jaablink


Apr 6, 2010, 7:58 PM
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I like the explanation nols gives on free soloing .

http://www.nols.edu/...esystems.shtml#belay


Partner camhead


Apr 6, 2010, 8:14 PM
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fresh wrote:
does it strike anyone how insane it would be to rope solo a 12a?

no.


marc801


Apr 6, 2010, 9:39 PM
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Re: [fresh] "free solo" with a rope... [In reply to]
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fresh wrote:
does it strike anyone how insane it would be to rope solo a 12a?
No, seeing that some of the notable names in climbing did just that to work some pitches during their free attempts on El Cap. Tommy Caldwell is one that comes to mind.

Edit to add: Doh! I see camhead beat me to this post by a little more than an hour.


(This post was edited by marc801 on Apr 6, 2010, 9:41 PM)


c4c


Apr 7, 2010, 4:20 AM
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Re: [marc801] "free solo" with a rope... [In reply to]
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marc801 wrote:
fresh wrote:
does it strike anyone how insane it would be to rope solo a 12a?
No, seeing that some of the notable names in climbing did just that to work some pitches during their free attempts on El Cap. Tommy Caldwell is one that comes to mind.

Edit to add: Doh! I see camhead beat me to this post by a little more than an hour.

you must be a slow typer!


jynckx


Jun 25, 2010, 5:27 AM
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Re: [c4c] "free solo" with a rope... [In reply to]
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well, first day out with the device I managed to send a 5.7 onsight, flail on a 5.11 corner crack (sent it next day out) and send a 5.12a overhang 2nd go. Im pretty happy with that. I don't care what you call it, I am just trying to define some terms which will need to be more clearly defined in the future.

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