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rockclimber919
Apr 15, 2010, 7:33 PM
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There is a old, little known bouldering spot I have recently discovered not far from my house. It appears that no one else knows of it or has been there in a long time, It's an old 15ft tall highway bridge, highway has since been moved, and all of the chipped in pockets are covered in lichen and filled with concrete pebbles. I am saving up money to clean it up and improve it. There is a lot of blank wall space to put up more routes and I was thinking of putting some holds up. I was wondering what hold company has holds that hold up decently outdoors. Planning on drilling holes to bolt on holds with concrete expansion anchors. I will post the location after its completed for all of you Dallas Texas climbers that want to come and play on it.
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patmay81
Apr 15, 2010, 7:56 PM
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metolius makes good holds, i had them on an outdoor wall for years. if its a concrete wall, why not just chip new holds? could be a lot better than bolting hunks of plastic up. also, you dont necessarily need to bolt them, you could just epoxy them directly on, it would save the trouble of drilling and you wouldnt have to worry about people ripping them off and running away with them.
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rockclimber919
Apr 15, 2010, 8:07 PM
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is there a certain type of epoxy you would recommend using?
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acorneau
Apr 15, 2010, 9:37 PM
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If you want to change them around (like in the gym) then use concrete drop-in anchors for the holds, like these:
http://www.fastenal.com/...sku=50408&ucst=t
Make sure to use regular wedge or sleeve bolts for protection/anchor bolts.
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mhix13
Apr 17, 2010, 2:38 AM
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why not try and put up some routes without holds? not being an ass here but lets take what you plan on doing and apply it to all crags (slippery slope type consideration)... if everyone could not climb the boulder and just drilled and glued holds into the rock we probably wouldn't have climbers climbing 5.15. There wouldn't be any "pushing the grad"... you would just drill a hole and glue a hold to it when things got too hard. If i've misread what you're talking about please enlighten me (i've had a bottle of wine to myself tonight) but why not just boulder/sport/trad. climb the "routes" and put up what you can and leave the rock unscathed?
some would argue whether bolts leave the crag"unscathed" visually but it'd be better to have bolts than plastic glued into the rock face. just a question and my 2 cents.
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milesenoell
Apr 17, 2010, 3:18 AM
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"crag"? It sounds more like construction remnants.
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jbro_135
Apr 17, 2010, 10:21 PM
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yeah but abandoned highway bridge ethics have to be strictly observed brah, it's a slippery slope
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dretket
Apr 18, 2010, 3:01 AM
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My school features an outdoor bouldering area, and the holds are from a variety of manufactures. I second the vote for metolious. They're holds are awesome.
Your idea to turn the abandoned bridge into a bouldering/climbing area is pretty badass. If you can find the new Rock and Ice, check out the parting shot (last pic on the back page). Its of a guy climbing under a soccer stadium. 13d and pretty rad.
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Dynosoarus
Apr 25, 2010, 6:49 PM
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Registered: Feb 11, 2010
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I dont think theres really any ethics here when it comes to abandoned man-made structures only saftey issues, but whatever.
I own a bunch of metolius and dont get me wrong there preety awsome, but for outside I would use some real rock holds like from
http://rockymountainclimbinggear.com/
They say they dont chip, crack, or fade in any enviroment and there cheap (about $1 a hold).
I would recomend screw-ons because there much easier and cheaper to install than drop-in anchors, but if your willing to spend the extra money it is cool to be able to switch up the routes the only thing is since its a public place they might be more likely to be stolen?
but idk its your call, good luck though sounds like a awsome project
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