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Dynosoarus
Apr 28, 2010, 11:15 PM
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So im heading up to Devils Lake the weekend of May 8th. I climb about a 5.10b in the gym, but im not sure how my gyms grades would translate to real rock. Never been there before and want to know what routes people recomend.
But give me recomendations on what routes you love not nessarily on the grade you think I can top out. Itll be sweet just to look the up in my guidebook. Thankx
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cornstateclimber
Apr 29, 2010, 3:25 AM
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DL is a strange place whenit comes to grades! 10b in the gym is one thing but moving out to the slick frictionless quartzite at the lake will throw you off! if your toproping which ill assume you are, then might as well keep up with youre doing at the gym! i would say hit the east rampart and try sometime crack and batman! great lines and also very pumpy and overhanging! and always fun to take a fall! nothing like a good swing into the trees behind you! or just try whatever looks appealing to you! its the midwests rockclimbing playground! routes abound and most all are fun in there own way!
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Dynosoarus
Apr 29, 2010, 2:16 PM
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No problem thats a great list
Ill be sure to check as many of those as I can
Thank you to you both
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cornstateclimber
Apr 29, 2010, 11:13 PM
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birch tree is an 5.8 now? that was probably the hardest 7 at the lake, or one of the hardest ive done! it took me a while to get past the alcove the first two times i climbed it. and that was on top rope! ive yet to lead it as i try my best to steer clear of that area due to the hoards of top ropers making camp and putting ropes on every climb! but brintons crack is a great classic lead at the lake! one of my favorite easys!!
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potreroed
May 6, 2010, 4:17 AM
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There are hundreds of excellent routes at DL at every grade. If you're climbing 10's in the gym you'll want to start on 6's and 7's at The Lake. The 8's will give you a good spanking.
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dhaulagiri
May 6, 2010, 12:41 PM
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I agree, you can't go wrong with any of the routes on this list.
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dagibbs
May 7, 2010, 7:00 PM
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cornstateclimber wrote: to the slick frictionless quartzite at the lake
How does that compare to polished limestone?
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kraklio.linguistics
May 9, 2010, 2:50 PM
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There are quite a few good climbs in the cleopatra ampitheather area. Highly reccommend top roping with a person who has climbed there before. And defintately reccomend practicing your anchoring due to the fact that the quartzite there is about like climbing on marble. A 5.4 there is about as hard as a 5.7 on regular limestone or frictioned dolomite due to the smoothness of the rock.
Remember, redundancy in anchors are a key to safetey in the DL.
May your climb be dry and your rope belayed well.
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chadnsc
May 10, 2010, 8:39 PM
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I'll just throw this in here . . .
The lack of friction really isn't that bad at DL! Sure if all you're only used to climbing on high friction rock like sandstone then you’re in for a shock but otherwise, eh it's not so bad. I personally have never had issue with the rock being slippery and affecting my climbing but that may be due to my climbing experiences on the North Shore of Minnesota.
However when leading in DL you have to avoid the bad habit of simple 'plug and play' creating 'good enough' placements with your cams. Actually look at your placements and make sure they are set correctly and well.
All that being said if you're looking for recommendations on great climbs in DL check out the Minnesota / Wisconsin climbing guidebook. Any of the three or four star climbs in the DL section are great climbs!
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shrug7
May 10, 2010, 9:08 PM
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I agree 100%
and besides the rock there, just makes climbing on other stuff like sandstone/limestone that much easier.
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cornstateclimber
May 11, 2010, 2:29 AM
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palisade head is a nice place to climb! i climbed there last year. it was very similar to the quartzite at devils lake. but man the lake at your back and the water crashing at the base! that was best part! hope to make back there soon!
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Dynosoarus
May 12, 2010, 11:16 PM
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chadnsc wrote: I'll just throw this in here . . . The lack of friction really isn't that bad at DL! Sure if all you're only used to climbing on high friction rock like sandstone then you’re in for a shock but otherwise, eh it's not so bad. I personally have never had issue with the rock being slippery and affecting my climbing but that may be due to my climbing experiences on the North Shore of Minnesota. However when leading in DL you have to avoid the bad habit of simple 'plug and play' creating 'good enough' placements with your cams. Actually look at your placements and make sure they are set correctly and well. All that being said if you're looking for recommendations on great climbs in DL check out the Minnesota / Wisconsin climbing guidebook. Any of the three or four star climbs in the DL section are great climbs!
Thanks man, real good advice, but as for cams ill only be toproping so placing gear wont be an issue.
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shrug7
May 13, 2010, 2:54 PM
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nah... all trees up there are bomber....
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chadnsc
May 13, 2010, 6:40 PM
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Yeah that one tree anchors what, 57 climbs? 
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shrug7
May 13, 2010, 7:33 PM
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something like that. 
oh I need to get up there soon.
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cornstateclimber
May 13, 2010, 10:30 PM
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next weekend! i cant wait! seems like forever since ive gone climbing! colorado seems to be the last! oh wait a few days down at the red not too long ago! anyone gonna be up at the lake next weekend? 22nd?
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Dynosoarus
May 14, 2010, 3:02 PM
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So im guessing the three point anchoring system doesnt apply here
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chadnsc
May 14, 2010, 6:01 PM
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Yup, no redundancy required (just look at that massive tree and its root structure!) and you can use Goldline rope! 
But only at DL, anywhere else and ‘yer gonna’ die!
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