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tradmania
Apr 30, 2010, 6:21 PM
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Registered: Jun 2, 2003
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I'm looking at getting a new belay device that is better suited to 8.5mm double ropes. I currently have a BD ATC, which I have had for about 9 years. My research suggests that in addition to their ability to belay two seconders simultaneously, the Petzl Reverso 3 and the BD XP Guide have a better holding power for arresting falls on thinner ropes than my BD ATC.
For those of you who have used these devices, what are your thoughts? I'm particularly interested in the views of anyone who has used and compared both of these devices. Finally, how easy is it to release the various belay device when they are loaded?
Many thanks.
(Edited for mistake in title.)
(This post was edited by tradmania on Apr 30, 2010, 6:33 PM)
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clews
Apr 30, 2010, 8:21 PM
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do a search...
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tradmania
Apr 30, 2010, 9:16 PM
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clews wrote: do a search...
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steady_climbing
Apr 30, 2010, 9:33 PM
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I have used both devices with 8.4 half ropes. The Reverso 3 is better suited to small diameter ropes. It's pretty effortless to use and locks off well in autoblock mode.
I love the ATC-Guide but when I am using a smaller rope and would prefer an extra bit of friction I choose the Reverso 3.
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clews
Apr 30, 2010, 9:49 PM
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tradmania wrote: clews wrote: do a search... Already have, and read the relevant threads.
having read all the relevant threads you should already know that there is no globally preferred device and either one will do the job just fine.
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JimTitt
May 1, 2010, 5:22 PM
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Interesting, in our pull tests the ATC XP Guide has slightly more friction than the Reverso³ with all rope diameters, though you´d be hard put to tell the difference by feel!
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william.alan.swanson
May 1, 2010, 6:36 PM
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My ATC Guide locks off great on 8.6 doubles. The reverso is lighter, shinier, more expensive and wears out more quickly. As far as releasing under load, they both work okay, but if you think you're going to need to lower a second it's better to belay from the harness. Seriously, though, this has been covered a million times. Either one will work more or less the same.
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