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Please advise on first pair of rock shoes :)
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oliccm


May 3, 2010, 12:31 PM
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Please advise on first pair of rock shoes :)
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Hi,

I am new to climbing and have been having lessons, i now want to buy my first pair of shoes. My instructor told me to buy a fairly cheap pair for my first set because i would wear them out fast, then next time get something a little bit better once i have improved my climbing skills. I will be mainly be climbing indoor bouldering and top rope, and some outdoors most likely.

So based on that what would you recommend? Here is what i have looked at;

Scarpa Spectro - Half price @ 40
Boreal Joker - 65
Evolv Bandit - 63
Red Chili Spirit - 58
Red Chili Sausalito - 63

Thanks for any advice and help.


edge


May 3, 2010, 12:39 PM
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http://www.evolvesports.com/defy-vtr.htm

Evolv defy.


qtm


May 3, 2010, 12:40 PM
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Get the one that fits the best. Snug, but not too tight, with no hot spots.


sidepull


May 3, 2010, 12:41 PM
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I would not recommend the Defy for a beginner - too soft. I think the bandits would be a better shoe.


swoopee


May 3, 2010, 12:46 PM
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I had a pair of La Sportiva Cliffs http://www.backcountrygear.com/...=LS140&code=GF18 that I climbed in 3-4 times a week for 2 years before wearing them out. They were the best climbing shoes that I have ever owned.


shockabuku


May 3, 2010, 12:52 PM
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3-4 times a week for two years?

How many feet per day?

At that rate (~300-400 ft/day) mine wear out in 4-5 months.


JLSmith526


May 3, 2010, 12:59 PM
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Are these all shoes you can try on in person, without having to order online and send back when they don't fit?

I think that's the biggest consideration when determining what your first pair of shoes should be.

My first pair were mad rock flash's, and they have lasted (my only pair of shoes for the first year and a half) quite well. They will stretch a little bit, which for me was a good thing. I still have the shoes, and have never had to resole them (though there are a few small gashes in the soles now). My girlfriend uses them now, so they won't fail on you quickly.


oliccm


May 3, 2010, 1:05 PM
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thanks for the advice i'll have to read up about all the shoes.

Yes i can try on all the shoes i have listed.

cheers


Kartessa


May 4, 2010, 7:16 AM
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I <3 my Chili Spirits!

Comfy cozy climbing shoes, if there ever were such a thing.


shoo


May 4, 2010, 7:20 AM
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qtm wrote:
Get the one that fits the best.

End thread.


desertwanderer81


May 4, 2010, 7:29 AM
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shoo wrote:
qtm wrote:
Get the one that fits the best.

End thread.

And is cheap!

Now end thread.


AntinJ


May 4, 2010, 7:55 AM
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desertwanderer81 wrote:
shoo wrote:
qtm wrote:
Get the one that fits the best.

End thread.

And is cheap!

Now end thread.

I completely agree with the posts above. A good fit + good deal = A great pair of intro rock shoes.

When I first started climbing I was so eager to buy shoes I picked up a pair of oversized, pre-owned Mad Rock Phoenix's that I paid WAY too much for. My 2nd pair was a full-priced pair of Evolve Pontas'. Nice shoes, but I burned holes through both toes after just 10 days of terrible footwork.

Explore online gear sites and outlets as well. I got a great pair of basic shoes through an outlet for $29.99 which lasted me months of rock & plastic before needing a resole. Once you find out what type of shoe fits you best both in size and use - then you might consider spending a few more bucks.

http://www.evolvesports.com/closeout.htm

http://store.madrockclimbing.com/outlet.aspx

http://www.mountaingear.com/...C0&Ntk=s%5Fsearc


swoopee


May 4, 2010, 8:36 AM
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shockabuku wrote:
3-4 times a week for two years?

How many feet per day?

At that rate (~300-400 ft/day) mine wear out in 4-5 months.

I probably averaged 200-300 ft each time I climbed. The ridiculous thing is, most of that was done either in the gym or at Crowders Mtn, which is sharp quartzite. Then there were numerous trips to Stone Mtn, which is granite slab. Either the shoes were extremely tough or I had some awesome footwork going (or maybe I just don't climb hard enough). Smile

I replaced them with a pair of Mythos, which after 6 months, climbing maybe 2-3 times a week, show very little wear but one of the soles started pulling away from the rand during the last trip to Stone. Mad

In my opinion, the Cliffs were a much better all around climbing shoe than the Mythos.


xanimal


May 4, 2010, 1:11 PM
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I am pretty new to climbing as well, and I have been wearing the Mad Rock Flash for the past couple months and am very happy with these shoes. They are sticky and have broken in nicely, but more importantly I can already tell what I want different in my next shoe. I think a basic strap shoe that is comfortable enough to not distract you from climbing is the way to go, avoid radical shapes or anything to stiff or soft. And, of course. . .

CHEAP!


igneous1


May 10, 2010, 12:57 AM
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There are a # of re-soling shoe shops out there which have plenty of diff. shoes, pre-stretched, new soles, fine condition and waiting for an owner because the original owner couldn't afford to pick them up, decided on putting the balance of their $ elsewhere, and so on. Contact the store(s) of your choice, ask them to e-mail you (possible photo's) brand names, sizes, condition and any other info. they have and quite possibly they may have pictures of certain pairs, or a trend may begin after your initial request for photo's and these shops will no longer have a stockpile of semi-new shoes they have lost $ on since they now list photo's and descriptions of the rebuilt/remanufactured clinbing, jogging, running shoes we all are in need of, and these shoes are needed.


mrtristan


May 11, 2010, 10:41 AM
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Based on your list, I have the Red Chili Spirits and think they're a great beginner shoes.

Having said that, it all depends on what fits your foot best. Check out the La Sportiva Nago if you can find somewhere to try it on. It's a new shoe, but I like it a lot.

My all time favorite shoe, though, is the La Sportiva Mythos. It's good enough for beginners and it's a good advanced shoe, too. It's expensive, though.


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