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highmountain1906
May 5, 2010, 5:24 PM
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Registered: May 4, 2010
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Hi everyone,
I'm a fresh climber here, top roping 5.8, going slowly to 5.9 and hope to start leading next autumn. I rather take it slow since I had a shoulder injury not so long ago.
I come from Europe and there, sport climbing is more popular that trad and I find it difficult here to find blotted routes (I think that's the word for it)
I've been in Quebec for a few months now and I'm planning to climb in the Canadian Rockies this summer. I'll be working as a hiking guide in Banff and thought to climb in Jasper.
My questions are these, fellow climbers:
-is there any sport route over there? I checked websites on Rock gardens and Lost boys but couldn't understand if the routes are sport or trad.
-is there any area with easy routes (like 5.7, 5.8 or 5.9)? It doesn't have to be in Jasper, it can be around.
-is there anyone free to come and climb with me? Since I'll be traveling alone and with no car (I plan to do some hiking in the park too) a companion would be more appreciated.
-and last but not least: is there any FREE climbing spot (free camping also) because here, you have to pay for everything! In Europe climbing is cheap because you don't pay to go to the mountains or to camp.
Thanks for all your answers and info!
Nora
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uni_jim
May 5, 2010, 5:35 PM
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Registered: Mar 27, 2008
Posts: 429
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hey there Nora!
lots of sport climbing to be had arround Jasper! Lost boys will have sport and trad lines, the rock gardens are mostly sport, the watchtower has loads of harder sport climbing, Juno wall is slabby sport, and the there are even more cliffs than that. Send me a PM and I can try to hook you up with some Jasper locals, if I am bak in the rockies by august, I could show you arround for a bit.
look up "Jasper Rock" on summitpost.org to find more route info.
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kachoong
May 5, 2010, 6:18 PM
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Registered: Jan 23, 2004
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I believe there's some good sport at Lake Louise, yes?
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bustloose
May 5, 2010, 8:27 PM
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Registered: Oct 10, 2003
Posts: 489
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ummm, if you're going to be in Banff, you don't need to go to jasper to climb, you'll be right in the middle of the Bow Valley, home to 100's of sport routes in your range!! just pick up the guide book "sport climbing in the canadian rockies"
and yes, lake louise = fantastic
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granite_grrl
May 5, 2010, 8:49 PM
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
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Yes, I think there's a lot more sport climbing areas around Banff/Canmore than Jasper.
As for free camping....Banff is a National Park, I'm not sure what the camping is like there but there's not a legal free sport. Hopefully someone else will be able to pipe up and give you some beta on free (or at least cheap) camping.
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highmountain1906
May 6, 2010, 12:19 AM
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Registered: May 4, 2010
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Hi there,
That's what I call an active forum! Thanks for your answers guys. The only reason I chose Jasper is because I'm going to work in Banff for a couple of weeks and I heard it's very, very "turisty".
My main goal on my holidays in August is to hike, I had planned to do a couple of 5 to 7 days backcountry treks and I thought there were less people in Jasper. I'm looking for peace.
Climbing is a plus for me, I can't be in the Rockies and not climb a single day!! What a shame!
So I'll check out the Bow valley. Maybe I'll stay longer in Banff if I can hook up with someone around there and climb for a few days before heading to Jasper and hike.
I'm open to any suggestion! I probably won't be leading by August but I might be ok with climbing 5.9 in top rope, if anyone is interested.
See you guys and thanks for the help!
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clc
May 6, 2010, 1:29 AM
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Registered: Feb 12, 2005
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I climbed a little in Val David, Quebec. And ya I remember you had to pay like $10/day.
I think its generally free to climb in the Rockies. And Banff has tons of sport routes compared to Jasper. Jasper is more quiet.
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macblaze
May 6, 2010, 2:09 AM
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Registered: Jun 23, 2005
Posts: 807
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If you are willing to drive as far as Jasper to get away from Banff then consider Nordegg and David Thompson Country. They have an active group of people developing routes, tons of free camping and lots of good beginner sport. Check out COE for a guidebook and routes.
The climbs are not the 'best' in the world but it's quiet, has some short approaches, and a wide variety of rock from limestone slab to quartzite.
Still, you are way better off in Banff/Canmore for pure variety...
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kachoong
May 6, 2010, 12:45 PM
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Registered: Jan 23, 2004
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There are quite a few great hikes in the Banff area too. One in particular that I did over six days was Mt Assinniboine. You can get a bus to Sunshine Ski Village, then hike from there. It's about a 60km hike past Mt Assinniboine, over Wonder Pass and down out through to the Mt Shark trailhead.
I took it nice and slow, did a couple of side trips along the way, including the Assinniboine summit via the North Ridge (I think it's about 5.5 or so). The lakes along the way are really scenic. Make sure you carry plenty of water for the section between sunshine village and Lake Og. It can get pretty dry after Citadel Pass and through Valley of the Rocks.
Also, while you're up at Jasper hike up the spiral trail of Mt Robson. It's a tough day up to Berg Lake from the trailhead but spectacular. Spend some time checking out Emperor Falls and maybe head up to Snowbird Pass, skirting the Robson Glacier up from Berg Lake. I spent three days up at Berg Lake but could easily have done more. I still want to summit Robson because of that trip!
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highmountain1906
May 10, 2010, 4:36 PM
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Registered: May 4, 2010
Posts: 8
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Thanks to all for your tips. I think I'll stick around Banff and the Bow valley for a week after my 10 days hiking with my tourists. I'll have seen the nicest paths there so I don't think it'll be worth hiking more time around. I'll climb in the Bow valley, if I can find a partner for this time. Anyone interested to climb the first week of August?
Then I'll go to Jasper to hike.
Bye!
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