Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads:
The war in my rack
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Gear Heads

Premier Sponsor:

 


jbro_135


May 24, 2010, 2:52 AM
Post #1 of 12 (3677 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 15, 2009
Posts: 662

The war in my rack
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

Should I get camalots or dmm dragons for my first set of cams? The price difference is negligible where I will be buying them.


cush


May 24, 2010, 3:59 AM
Post #2 of 12 (3629 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 2, 2008
Posts: 320

Re: [jbro_135] The war in my rack [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

go for camalots. the action on the two units is similar seeing as they were built using almost identical designs. personally i really like having the thumb loop.


billcoe_


May 24, 2010, 4:01 AM
Post #3 of 12 (3628 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694

Re: [jbro_135] The war in my rack [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jbro_135 wrote:
Should I get camalots or dmm dragons for my first set of cams? The price difference is negligible where I will be buying them.

Please get both and tell us what you like better. BTW, the Dragons only go to #4 Camalot size, so your 5 and 6 will be Camalots - or nothing.

For myself, although I love lightweight, I don't think the Dragons were enough to make me want to buy them. The BD nylon sling will far outlast the DMM sling, and the thumb loop on the Black Diamond looks sweeter - to me, as well.

(This post was edited by billcoe_ on May 24, 2010, 4:02 AM)


kobaz


May 24, 2010, 4:55 AM
Post #4 of 12 (3582 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 19, 2004
Posts: 726

Re: [billcoe_] The war in my rack [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

billcoe_ wrote:
so your 5 and 6 will be Camalots - or nothing.

There's always wild country, rock empire, valley giant, and some others, he said first set of cams.. not the only set.


jbro_135


May 24, 2010, 1:41 PM
Post #5 of 12 (3477 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 15, 2009
Posts: 662

Re: [kobaz] The war in my rack [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I don't know of any routes around here that require really big cams, I think I would only get up to #3 or 4 black diamond anyway


kennoyce


May 24, 2010, 1:59 PM
Post #6 of 12 (3450 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 6, 2001
Posts: 1338

Re: [jbro_135] The war in my rack [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Go BD, the thumb loop is vastly superior.


caughtinside


May 24, 2010, 3:26 PM
Post #7 of 12 (3386 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603

Re: [kobaz] The war in my rack [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

kobaz wrote:
billcoe_ wrote:
so your 5 and 6 will be Camalots - or nothing.

There's always wild country, rock empire, valley giant, and some others, he said first set of cams.. not the only set.

Wild Country no longer produces a 5 or 6, and valley giant doesn't make cams in those sizes. I suppose you could get rock empire if you want some sucky cams.


coolcat83


May 24, 2010, 4:38 PM
Post #8 of 12 (3335 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 27, 2007
Posts: 1007

Re: [jbro_135] The war in my rack [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I like my midsize metolius and trango too. C3s and tcus for the small stuff imo


boadman


May 27, 2010, 7:44 PM
Post #9 of 12 (3102 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 7, 2003
Posts: 726

Re: [jbro_135] The war in my rack [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jbro_135 wrote:
Should I get camalots or dmm dragons for my first set of cams? The price difference is negligible where I will be buying them.

I've actually climbed with the Dragons. I like them, the lack of thumb loop doesn't bug me at all. They're just as easy to place when gripped, as far as I can tell. Additionally, they take up less space on the harness when the slings are doubled. If you're doing a lot of aid climbing and the 1.5" difference between the dragons and the bds is a deal breaker, get the C4s.


error


May 30, 2010, 4:40 PM
Post #10 of 12 (2973 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 28, 2008
Posts: 69

Re: [jbro_135] The war in my rack [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I recently bought couple Dragons: #2 & #3. They work well for me, and I'm going to get the remaining sizes shortly. The extendable sling is kinda nice for trad, although the time will tell how long they will last (honestly, I don't care - will either re-sling them or get some new shiny ones Tongue).

Met MasterCams 1-4 cover the bottom range.

Don't like the "made in China" BD stuff.


drytooler


May 30, 2010, 5:16 PM
Post #11 of 12 (2956 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 31, 2005
Posts: 63

Re: [error] The war in my rack [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

hey i climb whit i mix

4 WC zero's
dmm 4cu
0.4 BD cams
0.5 BD
0.75 BD
0.75 BD(new C4)
1 BD
1 BD(new c4)
2 trango maxcam
2 dmm dragon !!!
3 trango maxcam
3.5 BD(old design)
4 bd c4
5 bd c4

I have the DMM Dragon only fore 1,5 weeks now made 1 fall in it :) it works smooth the missing thumb loop is not that match of a problem because the metal thumb part works good. I Really like the extendable sling.

Greetz Dennis


kobaz


May 31, 2010, 11:27 PM
Post #12 of 12 (2778 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 19, 2004
Posts: 726

Re: [caughtinside] The war in my rack [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

caughtinside wrote:
kobaz wrote:
billcoe_ wrote:
so your 5 and 6 will be Camalots - or nothing.

There's always wild country, rock empire, valley giant, and some others, he said first set of cams.. not the only set.

Wild Country no longer produces a 5 or 6, and valley giant doesn't make cams in those sizes. I suppose you could get rock empire if you want some sucky cams.

Hmm... you can still buy wc 5's from some places, 6's seem to be sold out... that's a shame if they actually stopped making them.

Maybe it was another niche cam company... but I remember seeing some valley giant style cams in the 5/6 range.

What's wrong with rock empire? The action isn't as good as the black diamonds, but hell, they work, I've fallen on them, and they are half the price.

Edited for spelling, heh.


(This post was edited by kobaz on May 31, 2010, 11:28 PM)


Forums : Climbing Information : Gear Heads

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook