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climbgoon
May 26, 2010, 1:56 AM
Post #101 of 124
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Another thought is to Belay directly off the anchor master point which separates you from the fall. This also makes it more efficient to escape the belay and assist your partner in a emergency.Also there is numerous belay devices from a gri -gri to a bd-guide atc that will assist your belay and can be locked off to help you manage the belay . Just a thought, Barry O
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meanandugly
May 26, 2010, 3:26 AM
Post #102 of 124
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Obviously you did not understand what I was saying, or you just thought you would just put your own spin on it. But thanks for your input and insults, I am sure they reflect positively on the professionalism of you company.
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guangzhou
May 26, 2010, 3:35 AM
Post #103 of 124
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meanandugly wrote: Obviously you did not understand what I was saying, or you just thought you would just put your own spin on it. But thanks for your input and insults, I am sure they reflect positively on the professionalism of you company.
Wow, your comment caused him to delete his post. Guess he so professional that he can't even stand by what he post.
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carabiner96
May 26, 2010, 3:50 AM
Post #104 of 124
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guangzhou wrote: meanandugly wrote: Obviously you did not understand what I was saying, or you just thought you would just put your own spin on it. But thanks for your input and insults, I am sure they reflect positively on the professionalism of you company. Wow, your comment caused him to delete his post. Guess he so professional that he can't even stand by what he post.
Please tell me I'm correct in recalling NEGuiding as the 'business' that had that blonde chick 'guide' get fired for posting party pics on her FB account that was linked in her guide bio, then the interwebs exploded?
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guangzhou
May 26, 2010, 7:20 AM
Post #105 of 124
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carabiner96 wrote: guangzhou wrote: meanandugly wrote: Obviously you did not understand what I was saying, or you just thought you would just put your own spin on it. But thanks for your input and insults, I am sure they reflect positively on the professionalism of you company. Wow, your comment caused him to delete his post. Guess he so professional that he can't even stand by what he post. Please tell me I'm correct in recalling NEGuiding as the 'business' that had that blonde chick 'guide' get fired for posting party pics on her FB account that was linked in her guide bio, then the interwebs exploded?
Not 100% sure, but yes, I think so. A strange outfit in every sense of the word.
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zeke_sf
May 26, 2010, 9:44 AM
Post #106 of 124
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guangzhou wrote: As for hanging from a clove hitch, how do you do this when cleaning a sport route.
Personal Anchor Rope.
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guangzhou
May 27, 2010, 12:34 AM
Post #107 of 124
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zeke_sf wrote: guangzhou wrote: As for hanging from a clove hitch, how do you do this when cleaning a sport route. Personal Anchor Rope.
I don't understand. Using a word to describe something does not good.
To clear a belay station when cleaning a sport route, you need to untie from the rope. How do you hang from a clove hitch if you are not tied into the rope that is cloved.
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milesenoell
May 27, 2010, 1:03 AM
Post #108 of 124
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guangzhou wrote: meanandugly wrote: Obviously you did not understand what I was saying, or you just thought you would just put your own spin on it. But thanks for your input and insults, I am sure they reflect positively on the professionalism of you company. Wow, your comment caused him to delete his post. Guess he so professional that he can't even stand by what he post.
Self deleted posts are tagged as such. Looks like the mods decided to remove those posts.
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majid_sabet
May 27, 2010, 1:18 AM
Post #109 of 124
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carabiner96 wrote: guangzhou wrote: meanandugly wrote: Obviously you did not understand what I was saying, or you just thought you would just put your own spin on it. But thanks for your input and insults, I am sure they reflect positively on the professionalism of you company. Wow, your comment caused him to delete his post. Guess he so professional that he can't even stand by what he post. Please tell me I'm correct in recalling NEGuiding as the 'business' that had that blonde chick 'guide' get fired for posting party pics on her FB account that was linked in her guide bio, then the interwebs exploded?
interesting so what was the reason ?
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acorneau
May 27, 2010, 1:26 AM
Post #110 of 124
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milesenoell wrote: Self deleted posts are tagged as such. Looks like the mods decided to remove those posts.
Check again... they say "Post deleted by NEGuiding".
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adatesman
May 27, 2010, 1:47 AM
Post #111 of 124
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milesenoell
May 27, 2010, 2:22 AM
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adatesman wrote: milesenoell wrote: guangzhou wrote: meanandugly wrote: Obviously you did not understand what I was saying, or you just thought you would just put your own spin on it. But thanks for your input and insults, I am sure they reflect positively on the professionalism of you company. Wow, your comment caused him to delete his post. Guess he so professional that he can't even stand by what he post. Self deleted posts are tagged as such. Looks like the mods decided to remove those posts. Posts deleted by a mod either disappear into the ether (when deleted) or drop into the Recycle Bin (when recycled), so given that I still see a post here there (marked as having been deleted) it looks like the user opted to delete it.
Oops.
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milesenoell
May 27, 2010, 2:22 AM
Post #113 of 124
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acorneau wrote: milesenoell wrote: Self deleted posts are tagged as such. Looks like the mods decided to remove those posts. Check again... they say "Post deleted by NEGuiding".
So they do. My mistake.
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adatesman
May 27, 2010, 2:28 AM
Post #114 of 124
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suilenroc
May 27, 2010, 3:44 AM
Post #115 of 124
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blah blah blah, none of this is worth anything... glade i quite posting on this site! its fun reading you all's b.s. keep it up. I'm out, again!
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chadnsc
May 27, 2010, 12:46 PM
Post #116 of 124
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suilenroc wrote: blah blah blah, none of this is worth anything... glade i quite posting on this site! its fun reading you all's b.s. keep it up. I'm out, again!
Your troll skills are weak youngling. Practice more you must.
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zeke_sf
May 27, 2010, 1:19 PM
Post #117 of 124
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guangzhou wrote: zeke_sf wrote: guangzhou wrote: As for hanging from a clove hitch, how do you do this when cleaning a sport route. Personal Anchor Rope. I don't understand. Using a word to describe something does not good. To clear a belay station when cleaning a sport route, you need to untie from the rope. How do you hang from a clove hitch if you are not tied into the rope that is cloved.
I was thinking one could tie into a five foot length of rope in addition to the climbing rope, thus maintaining the sanctity of the clove.
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dingus
May 27, 2010, 1:39 PM
Post #118 of 124
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zeke_sf wrote: guangzhou wrote: zeke_sf wrote: guangzhou wrote: As for hanging from a clove hitch, how do you do this when cleaning a sport route. Personal Anchor Rope. I don't understand. Using a word to describe something does not good. To clear a belay station when cleaning a sport route, you need to untie from the rope. How do you hang from a clove hitch if you are not tied into the rope that is cloved. I was thinking one could tie into a five foot length of rope in addition to the climbing rope, thus maintaining the sanctity of the clove.
Here's a way to do it....
climb to the anchor, clove in. Tie a 2nd clove to the other bolt of you wish. Now, take a bight of the rope leading back down to the belayer and pass it through the anchor. Once through, tie a fig 8 on a bight and use a locker to fix that bight to your belay loop.
Make sure all that looks solid, yo? Good to go? Have the belayer pull the rope up tight... if you were tidy in your task the fig 8 bight is now holding your weight.
Untie the end of the rope, from your harness, untie the cloves, and lower off mate.
Presto quicko. I prefer to use a harness sling but I reckon it would only take 2 seconds more to do without.
Notice using this method I am never untied from the rope, at any point during the climb or the lower off.
DMT
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redlude97
May 27, 2010, 2:01 PM
Post #119 of 124
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dingus wrote: zeke_sf wrote: guangzhou wrote: zeke_sf wrote: guangzhou wrote: As for hanging from a clove hitch, how do you do this when cleaning a sport route. Personal Anchor Rope. I don't understand. Using a word to describe something does not good. To clear a belay station when cleaning a sport route, you need to untie from the rope. How do you hang from a clove hitch if you are not tied into the rope that is cloved. I was thinking one could tie into a five foot length of rope in addition to the climbing rope, thus maintaining the sanctity of the clove. Here's a way to do it.... climb to the anchor, clove in. Tie a 2nd clove to the other bolt of you wish. Now, take a bight of the rope leading back down to the belayer and pass it through the anchor. Once through, tie a fig 8 on a bight and use a locker to fix that bight to your belay loop. Make sure all that looks solid, yo? Good to go? Have the belayer pull the rope up tight... if you were tidy in your task the fig 8 bight is now holding your weight. Untie the end of the rope, from your harness, untie the cloves, and lower off mate. Presto quicko. I prefer to use a harness sling but I reckon it would only take 2 seconds more to do without. Notice using this method I am never untied from the rope, at any point during the climb or the lower off. DMT
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dingus
May 27, 2010, 2:20 PM
Post #120 of 124
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redlude97 wrote: dingus wrote: zeke_sf wrote: guangzhou wrote: zeke_sf wrote: guangzhou wrote: As for hanging from a clove hitch, how do you do this when cleaning a sport route. Personal Anchor Rope. I don't understand. Using a word to describe something does not good. To clear a belay station when cleaning a sport route, you need to untie from the rope. How do you hang from a clove hitch if you are not tied into the rope that is cloved. I was thinking one could tie into a five foot length of rope in addition to the climbing rope, thus maintaining the sanctity of the clove. Here's a way to do it.... climb to the anchor, clove in. Tie a 2nd clove to the other bolt of you wish. Now, take a bight of the rope leading back down to the belayer and pass it through the anchor. Once through, tie a fig 8 on a bight and use a locker to fix that bight to your belay loop. Make sure all that looks solid, yo? Good to go? Have the belayer pull the rope up tight... if you were tidy in your task the fig 8 bight is now holding your weight. Untie the end of the rope, from your harness, untie the cloves, and lower off mate. Presto quicko. I prefer to use a harness sling but I reckon it would only take 2 seconds more to do without. Notice using this method I am never untied from the rope, at any point during the climb or the lower off. DMT This would only work if you can pass a bight through the anchor, which in my experience would be hard/impossible with some chain anchors and 10+mm ropes
Yes, it can be that way. In my (sport) experience it is easy and common, with a 10+mm rope.
The man asked for a way to do it and I provided. I do the bight through the anchor thing on greater than 50% of sport lower offs.
DMT
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zeke_sf
May 27, 2010, 10:15 PM
Post #121 of 124
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dingus wrote: redlude97 wrote: dingus wrote: zeke_sf wrote: guangzhou wrote: zeke_sf wrote: guangzhou wrote: As for hanging from a clove hitch, how do you do this when cleaning a sport route. Personal Anchor Rope. I don't understand. Using a word to describe something does not good. To clear a belay station when cleaning a sport route, you need to untie from the rope. How do you hang from a clove hitch if you are not tied into the rope that is cloved. I was thinking one could tie into a five foot length of rope in addition to the climbing rope, thus maintaining the sanctity of the clove. Here's a way to do it.... climb to the anchor, clove in. Tie a 2nd clove to the other bolt of you wish. Now, take a bight of the rope leading back down to the belayer and pass it through the anchor. Once through, tie a fig 8 on a bight and use a locker to fix that bight to your belay loop. Make sure all that looks solid, yo? Good to go? Have the belayer pull the rope up tight... if you were tidy in your task the fig 8 bight is now holding your weight. Untie the end of the rope, from your harness, untie the cloves, and lower off mate. Presto quicko. I prefer to use a harness sling but I reckon it would only take 2 seconds more to do without. Notice using this method I am never untied from the rope, at any point during the climb or the lower off. DMT This would only work if you can pass a bight through the anchor, which in my experience would be hard/impossible with some chain anchors and 10+mm ropes Yes, it can be that way. In my (sport) experience it is easy and common, with a 10+mm rope. The man asked for a way to do it and I provided. I do the bight through the anchor thing on greater than 50% of sport lower offs. DMT
I was just being retarded on purpose with my suggestion. I might try yours in the future, although I usually just go in static.
The best suggestion to cleaning routes is a dedicated second, but that typically involves a violation of the first rule of sport climbing.
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deltav
May 28, 2010, 1:26 AM
Post #122 of 124
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Why not just tie in with the rope or use a 48" sling?
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justroberto
May 28, 2010, 4:59 AM
Post #123 of 124
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deltav wrote: Why not just tie in with the rope or use a 48" sling?
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dan2see
May 28, 2010, 5:24 AM
Post #124 of 124
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I presume you're talking about 2-bolt belay stations.
Well! I always clip myself to the bolt with a sling or draw, and I make sure my biner is beneath any other gear already there. Using a sling or draw, I always know I'm safe. Then, if I'm going to hang around for a while, I'll find a way to clip to the second bolt.
This method is safe and simple, and fool-proof. Fool-proof means that I'll double-check the set-up before doing anything else.
Then, when I'm ready to leave, I simply undo everything I can grab (except for my personal clip, which is on the bottom). When I'm belay, I simply undo my own anchor, and climb.
My strategy is so simple and secure that it's hard to understand why anyone would use uncertified gear, or technical knots, or some kind of tricks.
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