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waveknave


Jun 1, 2010, 11:57 AM
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placing gear still on your rack
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Hi all,

I'm a noob and am wondering if placing nuts or cams still connected to your gear sling is considered dangerous. I have done this before, probably because I'm a bit panicked and my cam is hanging right where I want to try it and it has worked fine. I'm considering taking this a step further with my nut biner on a slightly longer runner so I can place nuts without having to remove them from my gear sling.
Thoughts on this?


Partner j_ung


Jun 1, 2010, 12:16 PM
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Re: [waveknave] placing gear still on your rack [In reply to]
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waveknave wrote:
Hi all,

I'm a noob and am wondering if placing nuts or cams still connected to your gear sling is considered dangerous. I have done this before, probably because I'm a bit panicked and my cam is hanging right where I want to try it and it has worked fine. I'm considering taking this a step further with my nut biner on a slightly longer runner so I can place nuts without having to remove them from my gear sling.
Thoughts on this?

Laugh


Partner j_ung


Jun 1, 2010, 12:20 PM
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Re: [j_ung] placing gear still on your rack [In reply to]
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I'm sorry, I'm sorry... Here, let me see if I have this straight. You're wearing a bunch of cams and nuts on an over-the-shoulder gear sling, right? And you place one before unclipping it from the sling. You're a bit panicky, maybe not in a terribly secure position. Am I right so far? And if you slip and fall before unclipping it from the sling...

Edit: LaughLaughLaughLaughLaughLaughLaugh

Am I Laugh picturing this LaughLaugh correctly? Laugh


(This post was edited by j_ung on Jun 1, 2010, 12:21 PM)


Partner j_ung


Jun 1, 2010, 12:25 PM
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I'm sorry. I don't mean to be a shithead, but... if I'm picturing what you're saying, it's actually one of the worst ideas I've ever heard. It's right up there with the guy from a couple weeks ago who belays double ropes by only holding the brake of the rope that was last clipped.

Assuming the fall happened, but you didn't get hurt... it's a story I'd spread far and wide around drunken campfires for years to come. Laugh


Partner j_ung


Jun 1, 2010, 12:26 PM
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Unimpressed Have I been trolled?


hafilax


Jun 1, 2010, 12:27 PM
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waveknave wrote:
Hi all,

I'm a noob and am wondering if placing nuts or cams still connected to your gear sling is considered dangerous. I have done this before, probably because I'm a bit panicked and my cam is hanging right where I want to try it and it has worked fine. I'm considering taking this a step further with my nut biner on a slightly longer runner so I can place nuts without having to remove them from my gear sling.
Thoughts on this?
Yeah, really bad idea. Don't do it.


dolphja


Jun 1, 2010, 12:33 PM
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Re: [waveknave] placing gear still on your rack [In reply to]
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waveknave wrote:
Hi all,

I'm a noob and am wondering if placing nuts or cams still connected to your gear sling is considered dangerous. I have done this before, probably because I'm a bit panicked and my cam is hanging right where I want to try it and it has worked fine. I'm considering taking this a step further with my nut biner on a slightly longer runner so I can place nuts without having to remove them from my gear sling.
Thoughts on this?

call me crazy, but this sounds like a real stupid way to choke yourself Laugh



qtm


Jun 1, 2010, 12:33 PM
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Re: [waveknave] placing gear still on your rack [In reply to]
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waveknave wrote:
Hi all,

I'm a noob and am wondering if placing nuts or cams still connected to your gear sling is considered dangerous. I have done this before, probably because I'm a bit panicked and my cam is hanging right where I want to try it and it has worked fine. I'm considering taking this a step further with my nut biner on a slightly longer runner so I can place nuts without having to remove them from my gear sling.
Thoughts on this?

Have you considered what happens when you fall with the gear still clipped to the sling?

If you're luck, a gear loop breaks and you continue falling and get caught by a lower piece. All the other gear on that loop go flying off into space and don't hit anyone on the way down.

Otherwise... you've got a facefull of gear. One arm is trapped uselessly against your head. The sling is choking you. Now what?

Unclip the gear before placing it, it's much safer.


desertwanderer81


Jun 1, 2010, 12:33 PM
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j_ung wrote:
Unimpressed Have I been trolled?

Looks like it :D


socalclimber


Jun 1, 2010, 12:33 PM
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Interesting question.

You can certainly do this, I've seen it done, and have done it on rare occasions. As a general rule just unclip the piece from your rack and place it. Gear attached to you via slings only increases the cluster fuckages.

I know you're new, but don't start reinventing the wheel.


waveknave


Jun 1, 2010, 12:53 PM
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Re: [socalclimber] placing gear still on your rack [In reply to]
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Thanks for the gentle reply. I'm very sensitive :)

I have considered the implications of falling while the gear is attached to my gear sling and the rock hence the post. If it holds, I'm on a sling that is rated for a static load capable of holding things together and if it rips I haven't dropped a piece. Furthermore, when it comes to placing a nut, once it's placed, I don't have to re-rack the nut biner.

There does seem to be some potential for bad results and am glad for the negative feedback which reinforces what I was feeling.

How about a nut biner that attached to light duty cord instead?


edge


Jun 1, 2010, 12:55 PM
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you're gonna _ie

Careful, you only have one chance to guess the missing letter...


(This post was edited by edge on Jun 1, 2010, 12:56 PM)


sbaclimber


Jun 1, 2010, 1:00 PM
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Re: [waveknave] placing gear still on your rack [In reply to]
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waveknave wrote:
I'm very sensitive :)
Wrong forum to be posting on then....Tongue


socalclimber


Jun 1, 2010, 1:09 PM
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waveknave wrote:
Thanks for the gentle reply. I'm very sensitive :)

I have considered the implications of falling while the gear is attached to my gear sling and the rock hence the post. If it holds, I'm on a sling that is rated for a static load capable of holding things together and if it rips I haven't dropped a piece. Furthermore, when it comes to placing a nut, once it's placed, I don't have to re-rack the nut biner.

There does seem to be some potential for bad results and am glad for the negative feedback which reinforces what I was feeling.

How about a nut biner that attached to light duty cord instead?

Really, don't do this. Just sack up and realize that this practice is not in your best interest for long term survival. DON'T DROP SHIT.

When I've done this it was aid climbing, in an weird position, top stepped, using one hand to try and hang on, and in desperate fear of dropping a critical piece.

AND I KNEW THIS WAS FUCKING SKETCHY!


(This post was edited by socalclimber on Jun 1, 2010, 1:14 PM)


chossmonkey


Jun 1, 2010, 5:58 PM
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j_ung wrote:
Unimpressed Have I been trolled?

Irregardless, that was some impressive olde skool PC++ing


healyje


Jun 1, 2010, 6:08 PM
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Re: [edge] placing gear still on your rack [In reply to]
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Edge is showing the appropriate visual answer...


kobaz


Jun 1, 2010, 6:17 PM
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chossmonkey wrote:
j_ung wrote:
Unimpressed Have I been trolled?

Irregardless, that was some impressive olde skool PC++ing

English please...


granite_grrl


Jun 2, 2010, 6:34 AM
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Re: [kobaz] placing gear still on your rack [In reply to]
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kobaz wrote:
chossmonkey wrote:
j_ung wrote:
Unimpressed Have I been trolled?

Irregardless, that was some impressive olde skool PC++ing

English please...

:roll: n00b.


Partner rgold


Jun 2, 2010, 7:18 AM
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Re: [waveknave] placing gear still on your rack [In reply to]
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waveknave wrote:
I have considered the implications of falling while the gear is attached to my gear sling and the rock hence the post. If it holds, I'm on a sling that is rated for a static load capable of holding things together...

If the gear holds, you'll be subject to an extreme impact load from the sling that will, at the very least, result in broken ribs. A year or two ago a climber was killed when his gear sling caught on something during a fall.

The entire international climbing community has learned to place gear without having to attach it to the climber during placement. You can learn this too, and that should be the focus of your mental efforts, rather than inventing dangerous and impractical solutions that you'll only have to unlearn anyway.


AntinJ


Jun 2, 2010, 9:17 AM
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http://www.summitpost.org/...belisk-Accident.html


onrockandice


Jun 2, 2010, 9:47 AM
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DO NOT MISS THE SARCASM HERE

{Sarcasm}Wink
I think you should clip the cams and nuts together to make a long daisy chain of gear. Clip the last piece to your harness. Now you just have to pull up the piece that fits and place it. If you fall your on a daisy chain of gear (with no give at all -- FF2??? ) so you will be fine. If you don't fall take your piece closest to you from the placed piece and clip it to the piece after the one you placed. Then you can unclip from your placed piece and not have to worry about dropping stuff. Then let your gear daisy hang and keep on climbing.
{/Sarcasm}Wink

I have that right don't I? Wasn't that in the FAQ or something? I'm really new to this technique so don't flame me if I have it wrong.

I'm sensitive to negativity.Angelic


patmay81


Jun 2, 2010, 9:48 AM
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WOW, I am rarely amazed at accounts of injuries and accidents, but that was actually a moving story. It makes me glad I don't use a shoulder sling, thats for sure.


onrockandice


Jun 2, 2010, 9:59 AM
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Very sobering eh? I quit using gear slings PERIOD after I read that. I rack on my harness now.


Partner rgold


Jun 2, 2010, 10:57 AM
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Sadly, the accident posted by AntinJ isn't even the one I was thinking of.


milesenoell


Jun 2, 2010, 11:56 AM
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rgold wrote:
Sadly, the accident posted by AntinJ isn't even the one I was thinking of.

Bummer that this happens on a repeat basis. I read a story about a climber dying like this about three years ago, right when my rack was finally getting big enough to warrant a shoulder sling. I'm still racking my gear on the harness.


(This post was edited by milesenoell on Jun 2, 2010, 3:17 PM)

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