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dolphja
Jun 11, 2010, 8:04 PM
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Something that i've been curious about for a while now. The areas i typically climb at in the USA, most of the climbers on sport or trad routes for the most part, all use the same commands at the anchors when they reach the top of the pitch "Slack & Off Belay (once they're locked into the anchors)"
when i was in Yangshuo, China this past January, i was climbing with 2 Canadians  who used the command "Safe" to let them know they're off belay and attached to the anchors.
NOW, my question is, those of you around the world, what commands do you use when you reach the anchors?
i went through the forums and saw a few. i'd just like to see what other people use at the anchors 
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sittingduck
Jun 11, 2010, 8:14 PM
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Selvforankring
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patmay81
Jun 11, 2010, 8:35 PM
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take & off belay
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sittingduck
Jun 11, 2010, 9:09 PM
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dolphja wrote: sittingduck wrote: Selvforankringis that viking for "off belay!!!!  "? i would presume so
it is Norwegian for "I'm anchored to the rock, you may take me off belay".
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Gmburns2000
Jun 11, 2010, 9:11 PM
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I'll use "safe" or "you can take me off belay" or some variant thereof depending on how easy it is to communicate with my belayor.
I picked up "safe" while living in Scotland. I picked up "Off Belay" here in the US.
What matters most is that you're able to communicate with your partner.
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i_h8_choss
Jun 11, 2010, 9:19 PM
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Poland = "Lock"
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dolphja
Jun 11, 2010, 9:26 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: I'll use "safe" or "you can take me off belay" or some variant thereof depending on how easy it is to communicate with my belayor. I picked up "safe" while living in Scotland. I picked up "Off Belay" here in the US. What matters most is that you're able to communicate with your partner.
+1
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sittingduck
Jun 11, 2010, 9:34 PM
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i_h8_choss wrote: Poland = "Lock"
I like "Lock", it is short.
"Off belay" = "Ute" in Norwegian.
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csproul
Jun 12, 2010, 12:12 AM
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This is in the sport climbing section, why would you say "off belay"?
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dolphja
Jun 12, 2010, 12:19 AM
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csproul wrote: This is in the sport climbing section, why would you say "off belay"?
well in some instances when people are sport climbing one pitch alone, they'll rappel off the chains on 2 lines and then pull the rope through the rings or chains instead of just lowering through them. with the OP, when climbing multi-pitch, or trad lines, people will call off belay or something to that effect.
now, if a person just threads the chains and lowers down, i could see why a similar set of commands would be used after someone had reached and locked into the anchors.
i was just curious how different people around the world said their series of commands when they're up there
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dolphja
Jun 12, 2010, 12:22 AM
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i_h8_choss wrote: Poland = "Lock"
yea, "Lock" is pretty simple. i like that.
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salamanizer
Jun 12, 2010, 12:25 AM
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I typically say, " ", and then start pulling up the rope.
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jakedatc
Jun 12, 2010, 1:28 AM
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"Take" "Slack" "Lower"
if possible i thread anchors with a bight so i never come off belay.
i never say "Off belay" unless i'm not going back on again and rapping.
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csproul
Jun 12, 2010, 1:54 AM
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dolphja wrote: csproul wrote: This is in the sport climbing section, why would you say "off belay"? well in some instances when people are sport climbing one pitch alone, they'll rappel off the chains on 2 lines and then pull the rope through the rings or chains instead of just lowering through them. with the OP, when climbing multi-pitch, or trad lines, people will call off belay or something to that effect. now, if a person just threads the chains and lowers down, i could see why a similar set of commands would be used after someone had reached and locked into the anchors. i was just curious how different people around the world said their series of commands when they're up there
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jt512
Jun 12, 2010, 3:32 AM
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csproul wrote: dolphja wrote: csproul wrote: This is in the sport climbing section, why would you say "off belay"? well in some instances when people are sport climbing one pitch alone, they'll rappel off the chains on 2 lines and then pull the rope through the rings or chains instead of just lowering through them. with the OP, when climbing multi-pitch, or trad lines, people will call off belay or something to that effect. now, if a person just threads the chains and lowers down, i could see why a similar set of commands would be used after someone had reached and locked into the anchors. i was just curious how different people around the world said their series of commands when they're up there Yeah, I get that...but sooner or later I figured this would digress into a "real sport climbers don't rappel" argument and thus the command "off belay" is irrelevant.
If you're not going to rappel, then "off belay" is a lot worse than irrelevant.
Jay
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jakedatc
Jun 12, 2010, 3:44 AM
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jt512 wrote: csproul wrote: dolphja wrote: csproul wrote: This is in the sport climbing section, why would you say "off belay"? well in some instances when people are sport climbing one pitch alone, they'll rappel off the chains on 2 lines and then pull the rope through the rings or chains instead of just lowering through them. with the OP, when climbing multi-pitch, or trad lines, people will call off belay or something to that effect. now, if a person just threads the chains and lowers down, i could see why a similar set of commands would be used after someone had reached and locked into the anchors. i was just curious how different people around the world said their series of commands when they're up there Yeah, I get that...but sooner or later I figured this would digress into a "real sport climbers don't rappel" argument and thus the command "off belay" is irrelevant. If you're not going to rappel, then "off belay" is a lot worse than irrelevant. Jay
Yea.. definitely saw this a few weeks ago.. guy was off belay and then was kinda shocked when he wasn't back on belay when he was done doing whatever bullshit he was doing. luckily he wasn't stupid enough to just untether before asking.
for me.. and probably most if you say off belay you're unhooked and i'm walking away.
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jt512
Jun 12, 2010, 4:49 AM
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jakedatc wrote: jt512 wrote: csproul wrote: dolphja wrote: csproul wrote: This is in the sport climbing section, why would you say "off belay"? well in some instances when people are sport climbing one pitch alone, they'll rappel off the chains on 2 lines and then pull the rope through the rings or chains instead of just lowering through them. with the OP, when climbing multi-pitch, or trad lines, people will call off belay or something to that effect. now, if a person just threads the chains and lowers down, i could see why a similar set of commands would be used after someone had reached and locked into the anchors. i was just curious how different people around the world said their series of commands when they're up there Yeah, I get that...but sooner or later I figured this would digress into a "real sport climbers don't rappel" argument and thus the command "off belay" is irrelevant. If you're not going to rappel, then "off belay" is a lot worse than irrelevant. Jay Yea.. definitely saw this a few weeks ago.. guy was off belay and then was kinda shocked when he wasn't back on belay when he was done doing whatever bullshit he was doing. luckily he wasn't stupid enough to just untether before asking. for me.. and probably most if you say off belay you're unhooked and i'm walking away.
Not at a sport crag. The standard response to "Off belay" is "Are you going to rappel?" The standard response to that is "Yes, I'm rappelling." Any other response, including just "Yes," means that the belayer keeps the climber on belay, unless and until there is absolute unambiguous agreement that the climber will be rappelling.
Jay
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sbaclimber
Jun 12, 2010, 5:40 AM
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dolphja wrote: NOW, my question is, those of you around the world, what commands do you use when you reach the anchors?
Zu & Ab, if I want to be lowered.
Stand, if I want to be taken off belay.
In NZ, it was also Safe (must be a Commonwealth thing...) if I wanted to be taken off belay, and got me? if wanted to be lowered.
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csproul
Jun 12, 2010, 4:40 PM
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jt512 wrote: csproul wrote: dolphja wrote: csproul wrote: This is in the sport climbing section, why would you say "off belay"? well in some instances when people are sport climbing one pitch alone, they'll rappel off the chains on 2 lines and then pull the rope through the rings or chains instead of just lowering through them. with the OP, when climbing multi-pitch, or trad lines, people will call off belay or something to that effect. now, if a person just threads the chains and lowers down, i could see why a similar set of commands would be used after someone had reached and locked into the anchors. i was just curious how different people around the world said their series of commands when they're up there Yeah, I get that...but sooner or later I figured this would digress into a "real sport climbers don't rappel" argument and thus the command "off belay" is irrelevant. If you're not going to rappel, then "off belay" is a lot worse than irrelevant. Jay
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Gabel
Jun 12, 2010, 5:08 PM
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Zu! (=Take); When I've clipped the last draw
Stand! (=Stance); When I've secured myself with sling+biner to the anchor, belayer gives slack and I can weight my attachment to the anchor
Seil frei! (=free rope); off belay when I'm rapping
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j_ung
Jun 12, 2010, 6:32 PM
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jt512 wrote: jakedatc wrote: jt512 wrote: csproul wrote: dolphja wrote: csproul wrote: This is in the sport climbing section, why would you say "off belay"? well in some instances when people are sport climbing one pitch alone, they'll rappel off the chains on 2 lines and then pull the rope through the rings or chains instead of just lowering through them. with the OP, when climbing multi-pitch, or trad lines, people will call off belay or something to that effect. now, if a person just threads the chains and lowers down, i could see why a similar set of commands would be used after someone had reached and locked into the anchors. i was just curious how different people around the world said their series of commands when they're up there Yeah, I get that...but sooner or later I figured this would digress into a "real sport climbers don't rappel" argument and thus the command "off belay" is irrelevant. If you're not going to rappel, then "off belay" is a lot worse than irrelevant. Jay Yea.. definitely saw this a few weeks ago.. guy was off belay and then was kinda shocked when he wasn't back on belay when he was done doing whatever bullshit he was doing. luckily he wasn't stupid enough to just untether before asking. for me.. and probably most if you say off belay you're unhooked and i'm walking away. Not at a sport crag. The standard response to "Off belay" is "Are you going to rappel?" The standard response to that is "Yes, I'm rappelling." Any other response, including just "Yes," means that the belayer keeps the climber on belay, unless and until there is absolute unambiguous agreement that the climber will be rappelling. Jay
I ran into this just recently. A climber I was belaying got to the anchor, clipped in and said, "off belay." Unless it is already understood that the climber will rappel, that simple two-word phrase should set off alarm bells for every single climber within earshot. And of course, the very next thing I said was, "Are you going to rappel?"
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I_do
Jun 13, 2010, 11:04 AM
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Gabel wrote: Zu! (=Take); When I've clipped the last draw Stand! (=Stance); When I've secured myself with sling+biner to the anchor, belayer gives slack and I can weight my attachment to the anchor Seil frei! (=free rope); off belay when I'm rapping
In dutch
blok!(=take)
stand!(=stance, used as off belay)
touw vrij!(free rope)
zit ik vast(=is my rope actually connected in any way to your harness preferably through a belay device after which I expect my partner to inspect my ty-in knot) I never understood the use of the climbing/on belay system. I kinda expect my belayer to notice when I start climber and if I notice he doesn't I'll just tell him to take in slack. I think always doing a preclimbing check of the belay and the ty-in is much more usefull /rant
In german:
deine mutti schmeit orangen auf den boden und schreit: loss! Pickachu!(your momma is throwing oranges on the floor and shouting go! pickachu!)
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sbaclimber
Jun 13, 2010, 11:27 AM
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I_do wrote: In german: Deine Mutti schmeißt Orangen auf den Boden und schreit: los! Pikachu!(your momma is throwing oranges on the floor and shouting go! pickachu!) 
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I_do
Jun 13, 2010, 11:30 AM
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sbaclimber wrote: I_do wrote: In german: Deine Mutti schmeißt Orangen auf den Boden und schreit: los! Pikachu!(your momma is throwing oranges on the floor and shouting go! pickachu!) Fixed...
Thanx dude, speaking a language which is mostly like german dialect makes speaking easy but doesn't really help in the spelling department .
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