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jej335
Jun 11, 2010, 4:38 AM
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Can two half ropes be used for sport climbing? i understand that they are mostly used for protecting two sides of a pitch but is there any reason not to use a set for sport climbing?
Can you use two different half ropes or should they be identical?
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Colinhoglund
Jun 11, 2010, 5:05 AM
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I climb Ice and Multipitch sport and trad on halfs all the time. They give full length rappels and allow less rope drag with less runners on long wandering pitches.
Both of these advantages mean nill on an average one pitch 'sport' route.
Instead you get ropes not made for repeated falls, and a rope management nightmare compared to a single when shifting from route to route. Plus you want two different colours of the same brand/model unless you want to exacerbate the rope handling nightmare your already in.
So the answer is you could use halfs for sport, but why would you?
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dugl33
Jun 11, 2010, 5:08 AM
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Yes, assuming your belayer can handle the extra complexity. Half ropes can potentially be safer from the point of view that you only pull up the rope you are clipping, so if you fall during the clip you will be caught on the other rope which shouldn't have much slack in it (assuming you are alternating clips).
I don't think it will matter if the ropes are identical if you are alternating clips in true half rope style. If you are using twins and clipping in both ropes to each piece it probably does matter since the ropes will have different properties regarding stretch, etc.
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irregularpanda
Jun 11, 2010, 6:30 AM
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jej335 wrote: Can two half ropes be used for sport climbing?
Sure, why not.
To answer your question more directly, people have managed to do more retarded things than this. Huzzah.
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clc
Jun 11, 2010, 4:26 PM
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jej335 wrote: Can two half ropes be used for sport climbing? i understand that they are mostly used for protecting two sides of a pitch but is there any reason not to use a set for sport climbing? Can you use two different half ropes or should they be identical?
Yes, Can you think of any reason why doubles could not be used? I assume you can't. ....
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qtm
Jun 11, 2010, 5:01 PM
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Well, you can't use doubles if your only device is a Gri Gri.
If you clip them as twins, then more force on the bolts... might be an issue if you encounter sketchy bolts.
Not as durable as a fat single, will wear faster as you fall and lower.
Heavier, costs more.
Sport climbers giving you funnly looks.
But if you're primarily climbing trad and want to hop on a sport route, I don't see why you can't use them. We do it now and then rather than bring a 3rd rope.
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jej335
Jun 11, 2010, 8:34 PM
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qtm wrote: If you clip them as twins, then more force on the bolts... might be an issue if you encounter sketchy bolts.
why would using twin ropes put more force on bolts?
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acorneau
Jun 11, 2010, 8:40 PM
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jej335 wrote: qtm wrote: If you clip them as twins, then more force on the bolts... might be an issue if you encounter sketchy bolts. why would using twin ropes put more force on bolts?
Not twin ropes, double ropes clipped together like you would with twins.
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sittingduck
Jun 11, 2010, 8:51 PM
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jej335 wrote: Can two half ropes be used for sport climbing? i understand that they are mostly used for protecting two sides of a pitch but is there any reason not to use a set for sport climbing? Can you use two different half ropes or should they be identical?
I imagine it would be awkward to identify witch rope to clip at each bolt if the half ropes where the same color.
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clc
Jun 12, 2010, 6:23 AM
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you buy half ropes that are different colours
(This post was edited by clc on Jun 12, 2010, 6:23 AM)
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shimanilami
Jun 12, 2010, 7:37 AM
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NO. NO. NO.
By definition, sport climbing employs a single rope and a Gri Gri.
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qwert
Jun 12, 2010, 10:10 AM
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acorneau wrote: jej335 wrote: qtm wrote: If you clip them as twins, then more force on the bolts... might be an issue if you encounter sketchy bolts. why would using twin ropes put more force on bolts? Not twin ropes, double ropes clipped together like you would with twins.
But so do some single ropes.
For normal sport climbing it shouldnt matter (as long as you are not using two singles as twins  ).
qwert
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jej335
Jun 12, 2010, 11:57 PM
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so double ropes put more force on anchors because they stretch less.
Is it safe to rappel off of a half rope and a singe rope if they are tied together with a double fisherman knot? In that case would the half rope be considered a tag line?
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vegastradguy
Jun 13, 2010, 12:54 AM
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jej335 wrote: so double ropes put more force on anchors because they stretch less. Is it safe to rappel off of a half rope and a singe rope if they are tied together with a double fisherman knot? In that case would the half rope be considered a tag line?
i usually tie my half rope to my single rope with the overhand (aka the EDK). in that case it would be a trail or tag line, yes, since you wouldnt be using it to climb on.
if you're sport climbing, though, you really shouldnt need a second rope- every sport area i know of is equipped for single rope raps. (some multipitch sport may be an exception).
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jej335
Jun 13, 2010, 5:17 AM
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i am planning on doing two milti pitch sport climbs this summer. one of them is on McGillivray Slab, the first pitch is alone is 45m.
is the overhand knot really safer to use than a tripple fisherman or figure 8 with stopper?
(This post was edited by jej335 on Jun 13, 2010, 5:36 AM)
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irregularpanda
Jun 13, 2010, 6:07 AM
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jej335 wrote: i am planning on doing two milti pitch sport climbs this summer. one of them is on McGillivray Slab, the first pitch is alone is 45m. is the overhand knot really safer to use than a tripple fisherman or figure 8 with stopper?
Good for you, that sounds like a better sport climb than most I've been on.
To answer your other question....do a fucking search! It's on the top of the screen, on the right. Type in Euro Death Knot or EDK or double rope rappel..... Please. 20 minutes of looking for it will answer your question.
Pro Tip: when buying double ropes, get two different colors that have a different # of syllables. Example: when you're 45 meters away from your partner, Blue sounds a lot like red because they have the same # of syllables. Purple or yellow, however, sounds very different than blue or red, and your partner will know which rope to give you slack with...
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jt512
Jun 13, 2010, 6:15 AM
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irregularpanda wrote: jej335 wrote: i am planning on doing two milti pitch sport climbs this summer. one of them is on McGillivray Slab, the first pitch is alone is 45m. Good for you, that sounds like a better sport climb than most I've been on.
Jesus, how have you managed to slip under my killfile radar.
*plonk*
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qwert
Jun 13, 2010, 9:51 AM
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jej335 wrote: so double ropes put more force on anchors because they stretch less.
Doubles used as doubles give you less force, because they stretch more.
However twins, or doubles used as twins give you more force, because they stretch less. for sport this should be not that much of a concern (especially with doubles that are also rated as twins, like eg. the beal ice line if i remember correctly).
And if you are using singles as twins, then you might get into trouble ...
Protip: you are asking a lot of questions that indicate that you are not really that good at "advanced climbing stuff", such as double rope technique, so please, stick to easier stuff, , and try to learn the harder stuff the "proper" way (courses, hiring a guide, going with someone experienced ..., NOT only from the internet).
qwert
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qwert
Jun 13, 2010, 9:52 AM
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jej335 wrote: is the overhand knot really safer to use than a tripple fisherman or figure 8 with stopper?
If the overhand is safer than the triple fisherman depends on your definition of safe, but this has been discussed to death.
But stay away from the 8 for joining ropes! You really gotta learn a bit more ... (see above post)
qwert
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irregularpanda
Jun 13, 2010, 5:37 PM
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jt512 wrote: irregularpanda wrote: jej335 wrote: i am planning on doing two milti pitch sport climbs this summer. one of them is on McGillivray Slab, the first pitch is alone is 45m. Good for you, that sounds like a better sport climb than most I've been on. Jesus, how have you managed to slip under my killfile radar. *plonk*
Heh.
That's cute, you add your own sound effects.
Maybe he's still pissed from that time I told him to either get a job, a woman, or both.
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qtm
Jun 14, 2010, 1:33 PM
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irregularpanda wrote: Pro Tip: when buying double ropes, get two different colors that have a different # of syllables. Example: when you're 45 meters away from your partner, Blue sounds a lot like red because they have the same # of syllables. Purple or yellow, however, sounds very different than blue or red, and your partner will know which rope to give you slack with...
Or call them NAVY and RED. Or BLUE and CRIMSON. Or call them by the secondary strand colors. Just discuss it with your belayer before you leave the ground.
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tradmanclimbs
Jun 14, 2010, 9:39 PM
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YIKES!!!! You guys are way overthinking this....
It can be done but its the wrong tool for the job!
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