No, it does not bother me. I think they should charge for SAR on a call like this. I mean full price with no discount.

No, it does not bother me. I think they should charge for SAR on a call like this. I mean full price with no discount.

Maj I like you I really do but slow down man. Your blood is hot and you smell fresh meat or something. You have the wrong guy and you are dragging him to someone else's trial.

Tom, fell. Tom is hurt. It was Tom's first RMR and frankly the man took the same gamble you take, we all take. His bet just got called.

Where did I remotely suggest that it was easy? The best stunts are often incredibly difficult. But they're still stunts.

Where did I remotely suggest that it was easy? The best stunts are often incredibly difficult. But they're still stunts.

First, build an anchor (downward pull) where he initially was. Second, attach the rope to the anchor via prusik. Third, pull the rope.

Not sure I follow. The rope between Tom and Bill was under tension. At your third step, how does pulling the rope move it anywhere to free up slack?

From here he could lower his partner to the ledge, fix the rope, and then rap down.

The anchor is built with tension between the climber and the belayer. The prusik from the anchor is on the climber side of the rope. Once the tension is taken by the anchor (holding the downward pull from the fallen climber), then belayer can move up a foot or so, un-tie, and pull the rope?

When the accident happened there was no belayer as they were simul-climbing ... but I know what you mean.

After the accident the pull wasn't down, it was up ... up until pulleyed through the top piece and then 60 or so down to the fallen leader who was hanging on the rope.

Right, so prusik the climber's end of the rope to the anchor (the climber's weight is the downpull for the downward-directionalized anchor). Afterwards, ease weight onto the prusik by climbing up, un-tie from your own end, pull the rope through all the gear and back down to yourself.

Ah, you are assuming the strand running down to the fallen leader is within reach of his partner. sspssp asked about this earlier. Yes, that is the A+ answer but only if it is possible to reach over to that strand. I think Bill said he was on 5.6 terrain (?) so the config could be almost anything. I suppose at some point on the way up it would become possible but near the top they'd both be relying on one piece.

PTFTW (a first I might add, but prolly doesn't count in AIA)


Umm tweetie? It wasn't Bill that got hurt. Bill did nothing wrong. It was Tom. This was Tom's first accident and I'll bet you it will be the last time he simul's on 60'.

So you are saying that a climber, never having had an accident before should be charged for the mistakes of his partner who at the time of the incident was unharmed, not at all part of the fall and frankly was doing it right when the fall occurred?

Maj I like you I really do but slow down man. Your blood is hot and you smell fresh meat or something. You have the wrong guy and you are dragging him to someone else's trial.

Tom, fell. Tom is hurt. It was Tom's first RMR and frankly the man took the same gamble you take, we all take. His bet just got called.

No charge! Go climb a tree and cool off the heat is getting to you.

This is not a court or the first ticket to be waived. You as a climber are responsible for your action. you can't ignore safety rules and expect to get a freebie. why should rescuers get hurt, risk their lives so you could publish your 100+ pitches a day book?

this was not a typical climbing accident. this was a light a fast speed climbing.

This is not a court or the first ticket to be waived. You as a climber are responsible for your action. you can't ignore safety rules and expect to get a freebie. why should rescuers get hurt, risk their lives so you could publish your 100+ pitches a day book?

this was not a typical climbing accident. this was a light a fast speed climbing.

If it is money you are after, you want to go after the typical climbing accidents. By definition, there aren't very many atypical accidents.

If you want to force a moral imperative on your people then your best bet is to start a church.

Answer me this; what was the purpose of this climbing expedition ?

establishing FA or breaking record ?

Charge one, charge all. Free for one, free for all.

DMT

Near as I can tell from Bill's blog, it was a personal challenge. Outside of chosen venue which includes risk differences, I liken it to working for a personal best time in running a marathon. Given his book on speed climbing, I would not be surprised if the experience found its way into some future book of his.

I can't answer whether there was a record to break. But I have heard of a climber who once free-solo'd a lot of rock for very personal reasons and came very close to making that last fixed rap that Dingus mentioned.

So, in your perfect world, the one who does it for purely personal reasons is okay but the other is not? Or maybe the accident on an FA is okay but meeting personal challenges waives immunity?

what if the insurance company send an investigator to see what happened and they figured out that this was not a typical climbing accident but a speed record and they decided not to pay or cover the cost.I mean most insurance when someone race their car and wrecks it do not cover the cost. Remember, things are getting tighter and everyone is fighting to save money and doing rescue is not cheap.

The horse is dead. Dig it up, ride it to Colorado and hand the man his fine. Good luck collecting it since he signed no waiver, did not agree in advance and didn't receive a single ticket, notice if violation or wrong doing.

Idiots like you are why people are getting tight. You want to fine people and make something that isn't about money at all, about money.

You will keep this shit up and be an idiot and then to climb we will all need anti-majid insurance and it will be effing expensive. I'll have to carry it and so will every last one of us.

I'll be glad to file my first claim when I find you, cut your rope and shove your ass into a freezing cold river and let you sit in it and shiver for 5 hours.

Then we'll need insurance against angry pissed off people shoving dip-shits into ice cold rivers.

You get it Majid?