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xlow
Jun 12, 2010, 2:36 PM
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Hi,
I'm planning a family holiday in Utah. It's not a climbing trip, but we would like to spend a couple of days in crags. We're do single pitch sport (bolted) routes in the 5.7-5.10 range. I've been searching internet, and there seems to be many options, and it's rather difficult to choose (never been to Utah). So, a question to the "locals" - what's your advice? We are looking for a picturesque area... with beautiful routes... something that would make us remember Utah forever... hope it's not too much to ask for, or is it?
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eliclimbs
Jun 12, 2010, 4:15 PM
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Registered: Jul 9, 2006
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Hey Man,
Where will you be? Utah's a big state. In Moab check out Wallstreet. SLC has a bunch of bolted stuff, and so does St. George. Check http://mountainproject.com or just buy a guidebook. Rock climbing Utah or Classic Dessert Climbs should work.
E
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sidepull
Jun 12, 2010, 4:26 PM
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I'm assuming you'll be there in the summer? If so, St. George and Moab are likely out.
There's good stuff in Big Cottonwood Canyon, particularly the S-curves, but you would want to get up early to hit them because they are south facing.
If you're looking for memorable, I highly recommend Maple Canyon. There are several narrow canyons so there is always a shaded wall. The climbing and rock are unique, gymnastic, and fun.
There are also good summer routes at elevation in the Uintah range. I haven't been on them so I don't know if they'd meet your requirements. Rock Canyon also offers some great moderates but it's not really "memorable" unless you go way up the canyon and get into the nice blue limestone (at which point the ratings tend to go up a bit).
So my overall recommendation is Maple. Good luck!
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xlow
Jun 12, 2010, 4:31 PM
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Thanks for the quick reply. Not much plans yet. Have two weeks, will be driving around the state. Wallstreet sounds and looks cool... Name something exciting near SLC and I'm all set..
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caughtinside
Jun 12, 2010, 6:32 PM
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crawdad canyon near st. george
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kennoyce
Jun 12, 2010, 9:59 PM
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Okay, as far as the Salt Lake area goes, the two main options are big and little cottonwood canyons (there are tons of other areas as well but the highest concentration of routes are in these two canyons). Little Cottonwood is mostly trad and I can't think of a single bolted route in your difficulty range, so Big Cottonwood it'll have to be. There is a ton of bolted stuff in the canyon, so I'll let you decide what part of the canyon to go to.
I would also suggest checking out American Fork Canyon for bolted stuff. It is a fun sport climbing area. AF canyon is about a half hour south of salt lake city, and offers thousands of routes. There aren't many routes in the 5.7 to 5.8 range, but once you get into 5.9's and above there is plenty to keep you busy.
I would also second what was said about Maple Canyon. I'd have to say that Maple is about the most memorable sport climbing in the state. It's about 2.5 hours south of Salt Lake, but it's definitely worth the drive.
Personally I'd skip out on wall street if I were you. Unless you're climbing trad, it's not really worth going to, plus there isn't a whole lot in your grade range, and It is much too hot this time of year.
Really for picturesque areas with beautiful routes that will make you remember utah forever, you should be trad climbing, but there is enough sport around to keep you busy.
Have a fun trip.
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b_ballbick16
Jul 1, 2010, 12:53 AM
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My skill level is in your range. There are some in that range and a little below that are fun in Storm Mountain picnic area. It is very pretty. there is a 5.8 in Little Cottonwood called Lisa Falls that is very fun. There are some other bolted climbs in Little cottonwood just on the side of Pentapitch that are fun. I am not sure what that is called though. It is found in the book.
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CSC0321
Jul 2, 2010, 8:35 PM
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b_ballbick16 wrote: My skill level is in your range. There are some in that range and a little below that are fun in Storm Mountain picnic area. It is very pretty. there is a 5.8 in Little Cottonwood called Lisa Falls that is very fun. There are some other bolted climbs in Little cottonwood just on the side of Pentapitch that are fun. I am not sure what that is called though. It is found in the book.
The area referred to is the Industrial wall. A very nice spot for summer climbing.
Ruth lake in the Uintahs has some really fun climbs in your range and the aesthetic value is unreal.
Honestly Mountain Project is your best resource for this type of inquiry. There's a, "Best climbs for you in this area" option that allows you to input the grade range and the type of climbing and it generates a list of climbs.
Good luck
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marc801
Jul 2, 2010, 8:41 PM
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xlow wrote: Not much plans yet. Have two weeks, will be driving around the state. Wallstreet sounds and looks cool... Name something exciting near SLC and I'm all set..
Edit to add: Wallstreet is over 100F at the moment, and faces SE, thus in direct sun till mid - late afternoon. There is also only a small handful of bolted routes there.
(This post was edited by marc801 on Jul 2, 2010, 8:51 PM)
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