There's also really no need to be so condescending.

i've read oval carabiners are not as strong as D's

I'm asking a forum of experienced rock climbers for their opinions.
There's also really no need to be so condescending. I'm not asking how to tie a water knot, I'm asking about a small detail.

hi everyone, i've read the faq but still have some questions. have been climbing indoors for about a year now and just took an outdoor transition course, learned how to make anchors, rappel, etc.. but my instructor said one thing on what types of carabiners to buy, i read something else online, and the guy at the store said something else.. so now i'm confused. i need 2 carabiners for the bolts, then 2 more for the master point to pass the rope through, 1 to attach my prusik loop to the loop on my harness, 1 to attach my safety rope (not sure what this is called in english, but the short rope used to lock onto the anchor while setting up the climbing rope to eventually rappel down) and then 1 more for my ATC/rope. at the moment i have 1 petlz william that i use for belaying. so i need 6 more. what should i buy? i went to the store and was so undecided i bought 3 different kinds:

2 petlz ok oval: i figured these would be good for the master point since they would line up when inverted against one another http://www.petzl.com/...ocking-carabiners/ok

2 petlz am'd: i would use these on the bolts, to run the anchor webbing through. http://www.petzl.com/...cking-carabiners/amd

2 bd rocklock screwgate: 1 for my prusik loop, 1 for my safety rope to the anchor while setting up the climbing rope http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/...carabiners/rocklock/


and i would use the petzl william i use for belaying for the ATC/rope. so have i bought the wrong things for the wrong uses? if so, what should i return and what should i exchange it for? thanks!

ps. i live in canada so i shop at MEC, feel free to point anything out on their site (mec.ca) if you think it would be better for me

Whoa back partner.
First and most importantly this is not a forum full of experienced climbers. There are many noobs in here too, giving bad info.
And asking this simple question about a "small detail" indicated that you really don't know what your doing and you should get help or at least remember what your instructor said.

Why don't you just have a sticky that says "if you have a question you're obviously an idiot and don't know what you're doing, go find someone who does know what they're doing to help you, don't come here, we're all self righteous assholes"

What can I do for you to provide the best forum experience possible?

You're one of those sadistic Help-Desk people, aren't you...?

I was thinking more of a fast food cashier.

My personal preference is for solid gate biners on the TR masterpoint, as I don't like how wire gate biners behave in that situation.

Not sure how best to explain it, so it might make more sense if yo go throw 2 or 3 onto a loop and play with it a bit. Basically the gates on wiregate biners tend to be wider than the spine of the biner, which makes them not play nicely with each other when loaded right next to each other on the same loop. I've seen it cause one or more gates to be pushed open under just the weight of the rope, which is something I'd rather not have happen on my TR anchor. I've not seen solid gate biners do this, hence the preference.

And since I'm giving out opinions I may as well also put in a vote for oval solidgates on TR masterpoints. They're cheap, give a nice big radius for the rope to slide through and have gates that will play nicely together even when doing the opposite&opposed thing.

My goodness we have an actual discussion!

What is the benefit (if any) to using non locking carabiners for clipping the webbing/bolts or for the master point? Why wouldn't you just always make a point of using locking carabiners? You mention that non locking oval wiregates don't play well together on a master point, is there any issue with locking ovals?

RC.com can be a dangerous place to get advice, as unless you've been here a while you can't tell who actually knows what they're talking about and who's an overconfident n00b who thinks that just because he can fall his way up a 5.whatever sport climb that he's an expert on all things climbing related and entitled to give advice on things he's never actually done himself.

And since I'm giving out opinions I may as well also put in a vote for oval solidgates on TR masterpoints. They're cheap, give a nice big radius for the rope to slide through and have gates that will play nicely together even when doing the opposite&opposed thing.

Missed this the first time. If you can't give/get advice or opinions what's the point of the forum? If someone gives bad advice I'm sure it's like any other forum, there will be five people ready to tear them apart.

I'm a certified padi instructor and avid technical diver. I spend a few minutes everyday answering beginner, intermediate, and advanced divers questions online. What I don't do is hang out on diving forums just to put down people asking simple gear questions just so I can feel better about myself. So is there anyone actually willing to help? Why do you even have a beginner forum? Why don't you just have a sticky that says "if you have a question you're obviously an idiot and don't know what you're doing, go find someone who does know what they're doing to help you, don't come here, we're all self righteous assholes"

I'll probably get banned for this post but frankly I don't care because it doesn't look like this forum is much of a resource anyways. Take care, and thanks for nothing :)

I'm somewhat of a n00b myself. . .