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Wrist Twister - Squamish
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peas


Dec 17, 2002, 10:41 AM
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Registered: Mar 30, 2002
Posts: 400

Wrist Twister - Squamish
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Does anyone have any beta for Wrist Twister? More specifically, gear lists or anything route specific suggestions would be much appreciated.

thanks.
B


bigwalling


Dec 17, 2002, 5:49 PM
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Wrist Twister - Squamish [In reply to]
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The gully doesn't get much sun so if they get snow it might be a little more of a hassle. I forgot the route existed! Otherwise I would have tried it and would be to tell you alot more.

I doubt you can fall more than 10-15 feet. And it will be a clean fall. Some people say it goes clean if heads are fixed. I don't think you need all those pins mentioned in Mclanes guide. I wish I could give you first hand info.


peas


Dec 23, 2002, 12:15 AM
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Wrist Twister - Squamish [In reply to]
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For anyone who might be interested, this is the info that I have gleaned about Wrist Twister.

I did the approach to it this morning and found lots of sketchy old fixed ropes and slings in Bullethead Gully. Might be better to scamper up, fix a line, then retrieve any pig you're carrying while you have your jugs on the line.

And the info I got from a guide in Squamish. Skip the first two bolt stations on the first pitch and belay at the third bolt station. The 2nd pitch is the crux. Heads should all be fixed, but bring a few just in case. #2 camalot should be about the biggest piece of gear you need. Full set of hooks necessary. I haven't been up it, so I can't vouch for the accuracy of the info.


yetanotherdave


Oct 26, 2006, 10:29 AM
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wrist twister gear beta [In reply to]
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thread resurrection alert :)

I hunted thru this site and a few others for gear beta for wrist twister, and didn't find much. Since the south south gully is, um, unpleasant to haul a bunch of extraneous gear up, I thought I'd share my gear beta to save others hauling useless big gear up it...

For cams I took camalots to 3, with some doubles, TCUs from 00 to 2 (yellow) and a double set of offset aliens. If I were to do it again I'd leave behind everything bigger than #1 camalot, and would not take doubles of anything bigger than the biggest offset.

Otherwise I had a wide selection of nuts including a bunch for use as rivet hangers, two each of talons, cliffhangers, and grappling hooks, and two #1 peckers. I also took a few heads, but didn't place them. I'd take the same selection again.

TR: http://www.bigwalls.com/forum2/index.php?topic=184


west_coast_climber


Nov 21, 2006, 8:33 PM
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Re: [peas] Wrist Twister - Squamish [In reply to]
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if you go to the climb-on store in squamish, you can pick up Matt Maddaloni's new aid guide book called squamish big walls.... it's small, cheap and has a wider listing of aid climbs than in mclean's guidebook...


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