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zuratol12
Jul 29, 2010, 3:00 PM
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I am going on an extended road trip to the North East. I am currently planning the trip and need help picking some bouldering areas to hit on the way. Here are the details. It will be a 4 month long trip or longer. I will be living out of my car, so camping close or in the bouldering area would be better. I have limited funds, so no areas requiring $30 entrance fees or guide services. I will be leaving from San Antonio, TX and heading to Maine, possibly going into Canada. The places I have selected so far include,
Gunks, NY
Acadia National Park, ME
HP40, AL
Halifax, Nova Scotia
I realize this is a pretty shitty list, but the northeast depresses me with its lack of obvious climbing.
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jrathfon
Jul 29, 2010, 3:08 PM
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The gunks bouldering is so-so, but very classic.
You should definitely hit Rocktown, GA up if you're going to HP40, free camping and a different style than HP.
A cool, nestled little place in PA, to stop at on the way is Haycock Mountain, you won't find any rock like it in the world (except elsewhere in PA), find a guidebook at the downingtown rock gym.
Lincoln Woods is probably the most extensive bouldering in new england, it's a town park in Rhode Island, good guidebooks exist. The rocks are glacial erratics, very cool stone. There is a state park nearby with camping. Definitely worth the visit.
I've heard Pawtuckaway in NH is not that great, but it's there, and there's a lot.
Bouldering exists at Rumney...
Smuggler's Notch in VT has a fair share as well.
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bigjonnyc
Jul 29, 2010, 3:54 PM
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Coopers Rock State Forest in WV, right outside or Morgantown has some great bouldering. There is a gude available for only $15 on Amazon. The only camping I'm aware of though is the one right there in the state forest and is probably $20-25 a night. Definitely a must hit spot though.
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dbogardus
Jul 29, 2010, 4:03 PM
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jrathfon wrote: The gunks bouldering is so-so, but very classic. You should definitely hit Rocktown, GA up if you're going to HP40, free camping and a different style than HP. A cool, nestled little place in PA, to stop at on the way is Haycock Mountain, you won't find any rock like it in the world (except elsewhere in PA), find a guidebook at the downingtown rock gym. Lincoln Woods is probably the most extensive bouldering in new england, it's a town park in Rhode Island, good guidebooks exist. The rocks are glacial erratics, very cool stone. There is a state park nearby with camping. Definitely worth the visit. I've heard Pawtuckaway in NH is not that great, but it's there, and there's a lot. Bouldering exists at Rumney... Smuggler's Notch in VT has a fair share as well.
Haycock is great, definitely some of the best in PA.
You're not going to find a guide at the Downingtown gym though. Your best bet is to use the new PA Climbing guide (www.paclimbing.com). Rob has a guide you can purchase for the whole NE of PA or there's a free small topo of one of the more popular areas at Haycock, called the Hanger, for free.
If you're planning on being there in the summer be careful. It's very overgrown, paths are difficult to follow if you're unfamiliar with the area, and tons of poison ivy. Having said that, the unique rock quality is worth it.
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Builderdash
Jul 29, 2010, 8:08 PM
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Bump for Haycock.
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jbro_135
Jul 30, 2010, 1:12 AM
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If you come to newfoundland you could have the opportunity to climb with me and no one gives a shit where you camp for free
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jh_angel
Jul 30, 2010, 2:29 AM
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jrathfon wrote: I've heard Pawtuckaway in NH is not that great, but it's there, and there's a lot.
Pawtuckaway is far better than Lincoln Woods, and the Woods are good. P-way has better rock, better scenery and the climbs are frequently very classic.
If you go bouldering in New England and don't stop at Pawtuckaway, you're stupid... or it's bug season.
Also, the north shore of Mass has a large amount of bouldering scattered all over the place (more glacial erratics) that is very good quality if you can find someone to show you where it is.
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sp00ki
Jul 30, 2010, 5:38 PM
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+1 for Haycock (make sure you get a guide, finding the good areas can be quite a challenge; there's a PDF floating around, message me if you need info).
Also-- if you happen to be close, Rumney has surprisingly good bouldering. Check out the Black Jack Boulder area and the Pound.
(This post was edited by sp00ki on Jul 30, 2010, 5:39 PM)
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jakedatc
Aug 5, 2010, 10:17 PM
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sp00ki wrote: +1 for Haycock (make sure you get a guide, finding the good areas can be quite a challenge; there's a PDF floating around, message me if you need info). Also-- if you happen to be close, Rumney has surprisingly good bouldering. Check out the Black Jack Boulder area and the Pound.
why would you do that.. bring a harness and find someone to belay if you hit up rumney.
Pway is much better than Rumney, lincoln woods, and the Glocester/north shore (MA) stuff.
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tks
Aug 6, 2010, 5:46 PM
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Hey Jake,
Is there anything on the south shore other than the few problems at QQ? I'm looking to avoid a long drive to the gym if I can.
Tom
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jakedatc
Aug 6, 2010, 6:13 PM
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tks wrote: Hey Jake, Is there anything on the south shore other than the few problems at QQ? I'm looking to avoid a long drive to the gym if I can. Tom
where are you staying? post up on Newenglandbouldering they will have more info.
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RyanJames1984
Aug 6, 2010, 6:14 PM
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For sure check out Coopers in West Virginia. Lots of good bouldering and I'm pretty sure your can find some free places to cowboy camp in the area.
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c4c
Aug 7, 2010, 1:38 PM
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the adirondacks would be worth a week (or two) of your time. 9 corners and /or Crane mt boulderwoods both have a ton of quality bouldering with free camping right next to the boulders.
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granite_grrl
Aug 7, 2010, 4:17 PM
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I'm not much of a boulder, but I did start climbing NS and doing a bit of bouldering is a prerequisite.
I would say the Best time in NS is through the summer (seaside bouldering) through mid to late October.....though I think if you're motivated you can boulder through the entire year (fairly moderate climate).
Also, it beautiful out there, and the climbing community is pretty awesome.
Check out http://www.climbeasterncanada.com, pretty much where the people from NS and NB go (with a small smattering of NFLD and PEI). There's a post in general forum there about an area that some of the NB climbers have hit up recently in Maine that looks interesting.
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yankeeclimber
Aug 8, 2010, 5:05 PM
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If your passing by haycock I would stop for a day or two. HC is my hometown crag so if you need a guide I can send a copy your way. I live in NH now but started climbing and have climbed there for 5 years.
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subantz
Aug 8, 2010, 5:07 PM
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Havent you heard climbing is about to be banned!
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PosiDave
Dec 17, 2010, 8:27 PM
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Haycock. Is alrite. but I wouldn't plan a trip around it.
Check out the Gunks or Lincoln Woods.
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DrNubbins
Dec 17, 2010, 9:42 PM
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There's good bouldering up in Farley, MA if that's in your path. Good luck finding a guidebook for that, but locals are friendly and will show you around if you ask nice.
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KirbyC
Feb 17, 2011, 2:11 PM
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Can you shoot me a copy of the guide you speak of?
EDited: I'll pm you my email..
(This post was edited by KirbyC on Feb 17, 2011, 2:12 PM)
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cracklover
Feb 17, 2011, 5:17 PM
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jakedatc wrote: sp00ki wrote: +1 for Haycock (make sure you get a guide, finding the good areas can be quite a challenge; there's a PDF floating around, message me if you need info). Also-- if you happen to be close, Rumney has surprisingly good bouldering. Check out the Black Jack Boulder area and the Pound. why would you do that.. bring a harness and find someone to belay if you hit up rumney. Pway is much better than Rumney, lincoln woods, and the Glocester/north shore (MA) stuff.
Listen to this guy ^^^ He knows his Southern NE bouldering. Actually, if you can convince him to spend a week with you, you won't be sorry. Just don't expect an attentive spot. 
The bouldering in Acadia is also very good, but does anyone know a guidebook? In my experience, the best way to go is to head to one of a few fantastic spots with a big crew and start making up problems. I've done some of my favorite bouldering anywhere like that. But on the other hand, I've probably missed out on some classics by not knowing they existed.
Here are a couple cool problems in Acadia:
(clicky)
(also clicky)
GO
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jakedatc
Feb 17, 2011, 9:17 PM
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cracklover wrote: jakedatc wrote: sp00ki wrote: +1 for Haycock (make sure you get a guide, finding the good areas can be quite a challenge; there's a PDF floating around, message me if you need info). Also-- if you happen to be close, Rumney has surprisingly good bouldering. Check out the Black Jack Boulder area and the Pound. why would you do that.. bring a harness and find someone to belay if you hit up rumney. Pway is much better than Rumney, lincoln woods, and the Glocester/north shore (MA) stuff. Listen to this guy ^^^ He knows his Southern NE bouldering. Actually, if you can convince him to spend a week with you, you won't be sorry. Just don't expect an attentive spot. The bouldering in Acadia is also very good, but does anyone know a guidebook? In my experience, the best way to go is to head to one of a few fantastic spots with a big crew and start making up problems. I've done some of my favorite bouldering anywhere like that. But on the other hand, I've probably missed out on some classics by not knowing they existed. Here are a couple cool problems in Acadia: [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/photos/assets/0/26240-work-74052.jpg[/image] (clicky) [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/photos/assets/0/26280-work-74054.jpg[/image] (also clicky) GO
ohhh you didn't bleed that much. think of it as a life lesson to not fall on the juggiest v1 part of a v4 
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