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McRiffle
Aug 11, 2010, 2:50 AM
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We always make sure our top rope anchor is extended off the cliffs edge to protect the rope. But sometimes the master point is four or so feet down. My buddies just grab the webbing and guide themselves down untill they get tension from the anchor. Then they grab the brake end of the atc and start rappelling. I dont trust my strength in holding myself on just the webbing without having a hand on the break. I usually just walk down when I really wanted to rappel. What kind of protection should I use to get me down to the anchor so I can have tension to rappel down? I no of the firemans belay but I was thinking if I were in a situation to where I would have to go down first? Does anyone have the answer? I cant find it in my books or online?
(This post was edited by McRiffle on Aug 11, 2010, 6:18 PM)
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billl7
Aug 11, 2010, 3:02 AM
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If you just want protection so you don't die if you slip ... Edit: if you're using something else besides an ATC as a rap device, this may not work ... a) pull up the power point to a place where you are sitting safely; b) thread your ATC for rappel; c) tie off the ATC with a mule knot plus overhand and maybe biner the tail loop to something; d) climb down until ATC is fully loaded with your weight; e) carefully untie the overhand (remove biner first if any); e) carefully but quickly release the mule knot (if properly done, the same stroke that releasts the knot leaves you in the braked off position for rappel); Practice somewhere first where you life is not on the line. For example, the mule knot is easy to get wrong so 'e' doesn't work so smoothly. Bill L Edit: However, keep reading for differing opinions on the best method.
(This post was edited by billl7 on Aug 12, 2010, 1:07 AM)
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cornstateclimber
Aug 11, 2010, 3:02 AM
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just add a seperate anchor that would catch you if you did fall, a short static line. until your comfortable crawling over the edge! or a seperate rope to rap on |
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davidnn5
Aug 11, 2010, 3:18 AM
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McRiffle wrote: We always make sure our top rope anchor is extended off the cliffs edge to protect the rope. But sometimes the master point is four or so feet down. My buddies just grab the webbing and guide themselves down untill they get tension from the anchor. Then they grab the brake end of the atc and start rappelling. I dont trust my strength in holding myself on just the webbing without having a hand on the break. I usually just walk down when I really wanted to rappel. What kind of protection should I use to get me down to the anchor so I can have tension to rappel down? I no of the firemans belay but I was thinking if I were in a situation to where I would have to go down first? Does anyone have the answer? I cant find it in my books or online? How do you and your friends normally get down to set the top-rope? I'm presuming you don't lead it up. If the answer is the same as above, that you just grab some webbing or bolts, then I fear for your lives because someone is going to slip and die. Anchors keep you from moving, that's why they are named that way. Clip yourself to the anchor, lower yourself carefully, check everything at least twice including that your rappel device is weighted properly, then disconnect from the anchor (with the NON brake hand) and rappel (abseil for us Aussies). You should never be lowering yourself by hand onto an abseil without being protected by an anchor (either above or below the cliff line). If your hands slip off the webbing, you could be dead before you have time to grab or apply enough pressure to the rope to make any difference. This is particularly true on a short abseil where the weight of the rope does not appreciably assist in locking the device. Edit: interesting to see the different approaches, but remember simple is good.
(This post was edited by davidnn5 on Aug 11, 2010, 3:20 AM)
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bill413
Aug 11, 2010, 3:22 AM
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McRiffle wrote: We always make sure our top rope anchor is extended off the cliffs edge to protect the rope. But sometimes the master point is four or so feet down. My buddies just grab the webbing and guide themselves down untill they get tension from the anchor. Then they grab the brake end of the atc and start rappelling. I dont trust my strength in holding myself on just the webbing without having a hand on the break. I usually just walk down when I really wanted to rappel. What kind of protection should I use to get me down to the anchor so I can have tension to rappel down? I no of the firemans belay but I was thinking if I were in a situation to where I would have to go down first? Does anyone have the answer? I cant find it in my books or online? I think you're right to not trust holding your weight on one hand as the only thing between you and death. What bill7 said is good. How to deal with this varies from situation to situation. Sometime, you can rig a higher rappel. If you are not the first down, make a conscious decision between using a rappel back-up (like an autoblock) or a fireman's belay. If you're first down, then the back-up is probably a good idea. Make sure you pre-rig your rappel on the rope before going over the edge. Trying to rig/adjust/fix when you're already hanging in the air is _not_ a good way to go.
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davidnn5
Aug 11, 2010, 3:23 AM
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cornstateclimber wrote: just add a seperate anchor that would catch you if you did fall, a short static line. until your comfortable crawling over the edge! or a seperate rope to rap on I disagree strenuously with your inference that one should become comfortable with lowering oneself over a cliff with no protection. And a loaded but untended abseil device is no protection.
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billl7
Aug 11, 2010, 4:21 AM
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davidnn5 wrote: cornstateclimber wrote: just add a seperate anchor that would catch you if you did fall, a short static line. until your comfortable crawling over the edge! or a seperate rope to rap on I disagree strenuously with your inference that one should become comfortable with lowering oneself over a cliff with no protection. And a loaded but untended abseil device is no protection. Me too. It's bad enough to deal with a cast, surgery & hardware, more casts, walking boot, etc. let alone death.
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TarHeelEMT
Aug 11, 2010, 4:49 AM
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billl7 wrote: If you just want protection so you don't die if you slip ... Edit: if you're using something else besides an ATC as a rap device, this may not work ... a) pull up the power point to a place where you are sitting safely; b) thread your ATC for rappel; c) tie off the ATC with a mule knot plus overhand and maybe biner the tail loop to something; d) climb down until ATC is fully loaded with your weight; e) carefully untie the overhand (remove biner first if any); e) carefully but quickly release the mule knot (if properly done, the same stroke that releasts the knot leaves you in the braked off position for rappel); Practice somewhere first where you life is not on the line. For example, the mule knot is easy to get wrong so 'e' doesn't work so smoothly. Bill L I would second this recommendation.
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moose_droppings
Aug 11, 2010, 5:10 AM
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McRiffle wrote: We always make sure our top rope anchor is extended off the cliffs edge to protect the rope. But sometimes the master point is four or so feet down. My buddies just grab the webbing and guide themselves down untill they get tension from the anchor. Then they grab the brake end of the atc and start rappelling. I dont trust my strength in holding myself on just the webbing without having a hand on the break. I usually just walk down when I really wanted to rappel. What kind of protection should I use to get me down to the anchor so I can have tension to rappel down? I no of the firemans belay but I was thinking if I were in a situation to where I would have to go down first? Does anyone have the answer? I cant find it in my books or online? Your master point is extended over the edge to protect the rope, correct? Then use another rope connected to your anchor points to rap down to the master point, clip in to the MP and rig your self a rap down from there on your top rope.
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alexoverhere
Aug 11, 2010, 5:12 AM
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bill413 wrote: McRiffle wrote: We always make sure our top rope anchor is extended off the cliffs edge to protect the rope. But sometimes the master point is four or so feet down. My buddies just grab the webbing and guide themselves down untill they get tension from the anchor. Then they grab the brake end of the atc and start rappelling. I dont trust my strength in holding myself on just the webbing without having a hand on the break. I usually just walk down when I really wanted to rappel. What kind of protection should I use to get me down to the anchor so I can have tension to rappel down? I no of the firemans belay but I was thinking if I were in a situation to where I would have to go down first? Does anyone have the answer? I cant find it in my books or online? I think you're right to not trust holding your weight on one hand as the only thing between you and death. What bill7 said is good. How to deal with this varies from situation to situation. Sometime, you can rig a higher rappel. If you are not the first down, make a conscious decision between using a rappel back-up (like an autoblock) or a fireman's belay. If you're first down, then the back-up is probably a good idea. Make sure you pre-rig your rappel on the rope before going over the edge. Trying to rig/adjust/fix when you're already hanging in the air is _not_ a good way to go. Rappelling or being lowered from a higher anchor point is a good option. You could ask whoever is rigging the toprope to create a higher anchor point for this purpose. When I'm faced with this situation, I usually get into a safe stance from above, clip directly to the master point with a Purcell prussik, go on rappel with my ATC, and down climb until I achieve tension between the master point and my Purcell prussik. A Purcell prussik is force-absorbing. I would not recommend using a static low-stretch sling to connect yourself to the master point, as a fall from above the anchor could be dangerous. However, some sort of backup is likely better than what your friends are doing (essentially free solo downclimbing). I would definitely practice releasing a mule-overhand on rappel if you want to use that method -- I've never tried it, but can imagine that it wouldn't be ideal. Also, I would not trust only a friction hitch below the rappel device as your sole backup while downclimbing from above the anchor.
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healyje
Aug 11, 2010, 5:18 AM
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If you walked up to set up the TR and the circumstances are as you describe, then there are zero reasons to rappel - skip all the shenanigans and just keep walking back down.
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currupt4130
Aug 11, 2010, 5:40 AM
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What about just putting a prussik knot above his rappel device? If he slips it'll lock up and be fine. Please correct me if I'm wrong though, the last thing I want to do is give a beginner bad info. Personally I clip myself to the anchor and have it on rappel as I'm lowering myself over. When I get over I'll pull up and weight the rappel and then take off my direct anchor.
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ianmeister89
Aug 11, 2010, 6:52 AM
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Maybe I'm way out of line, but what's keeping you from tying in, and having somebody belay you as you scamble off the cliff's edge? Of course, they could then lower you to the ground. Then you don't gotta worry about shock-loading the slings, or other less than ideal situations... Or does that not work for some reason??
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healyje
Aug 11, 2010, 7:23 AM
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Can someone here please justify rappelling under these circumstances? Would love to hear a sane reason why one would bother and that would justify incurring the risks involved and the effort necessary to mitigate them.
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healyje
Aug 11, 2010, 9:00 AM
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There are lots of ways for an experienced climber to do it, but 'quicker' is a lousy reason for doing it. Is that the best justification you can come up with to explain to beginners why someone would be doing this? And how many TR setups require a 'sketchy downclimb'? Sorry, I'd call both of those weak.
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JAB
Aug 11, 2010, 9:53 AM
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ianmeister89 wrote: Maybe I'm way out of line, but what's keeping you from tying in, and having somebody belay you as you scamble off the cliff's edge? Of course, they could then lower you to the ground. Then you don't gotta worry about shock-loading the slings, or other less than ideal situations... Or does that not work for some reason?? That would also work, as long as there is somebody on the ground ready to belay. Actually, this recalls me of one of the first times I was in such a situation. I had topped out on a toproped route, leaving the TR anchor a meter or so below me. Downclimbing looked hard, so my belayer just shouted that I should jump off. Which I did. It's strange what you are happily willing to do when you don't realise the risks.
(This post was edited by JAB on Aug 11, 2010, 12:57 PM)
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patto
Aug 11, 2010, 10:09 AM
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healyje wrote: There are lots of ways for an experienced climber to do it, but 'quicker' is a lousy reason for doing it. Is that the best justification you can come up with to explain to beginners why someone would be doing this? And how many TR setups require a 'sketchy downclimb'? Sorry, I'd call both of those weak. Quicker is an excellent reason for doing things. Do you walk to the crag that is 100miles away or catch a bus? Or do you drive? Do you take the 2hour walk off the back of a route or do you simple do a couple of raps? Many, many times we choose to rap for speed reasons. Don't be dense its an excellent reason. Just make sure you stay safe.
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jbro_135
Aug 11, 2010, 11:17 AM
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JAB wrote: ianmeister89 wrote: Maybe I'm way out of line, but what's keeping you from tying in, and having somebody belay you as you scamble off the cliff's edge? Of course, they could then lower you to the ground. Then you don't gotta worry about shock-loading the slings, or other less than ideal situations... Or does that not work for some reason?? That would also work, as long as there is somebody on the ground ready to belay. Actually, this recalls me of one of the first times I was in such a situation. I had toproped a route, leaving the TR anchor a meter or so below me. Downclimbing looked hard, so my belayer just shouted that I should jump off. Which I did. It's strange what you are happily willing to do when you don't realise the risks. what's risky about falling from one meter above your anchor on (i'm assuming a full-length pitch) 30m of rope?
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j_ung
Aug 11, 2010, 12:01 PM
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Not exactly the same situation as another thread, but it applies:
In reply to: If I'm a-going toproping, and I know I'll have to eventually reach bolts over the edge of the cliff, I carry a short piece of static rope, fix it to a BFT (big fucking tree) and then rappel in on a Gri-gri to do the work. Once I'm done, I either climb back up and walk off or transfer the rappel onto the TR and continue down. I'm never in a position to load anything with much more than body weight. Extra tidbits: 1. The length of static rope you need depends on the distance from the BFT to the bolt anchor. You need enough to to fix the rope to the tree and still be able to rappel below the completed TR anchor. 2. Since the static rope never reaches the ground, I also knot the end of it. 3. I use an autoblock to back up the rappel on the TR. On the whole, though, I agree with healyje. Think about whether or not it's smarter to walk around.
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JAB
Aug 11, 2010, 12:56 PM
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jbro_135 wrote: what's risky about falling from one meter above your anchor on (i'm assuming a full-length pitch) 30m of rope? If done right, nothing. If done by two n00bs, there are lots of things that could go wrong. Maybe the belayer isn't having his break hand ready. Maybe the belayer has taken the rope really tight, making you slam into the wall. Maybe you make a poor jump, and end up slamming into the wall sideways or manage to get yourself twisted into the rope. Maybe you hit a ledge on that 5.7 you just climbed. EDIT: I just realised I forgot to tell that I topped out the route, standing on a big ledge. So it was not just a normal simple fall, but rather a big jump off the wall.
(This post was edited by JAB on Aug 11, 2010, 12:59 PM)
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billl7
Aug 11, 2010, 1:08 PM
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healyje wrote: There are lots of ways for an experienced climber to do it, but 'quicker' is a lousy reason for doing it. Is that the best justification you can come up with to explain to beginners why someone would be doing this? And how many TR setups require a 'sketchy downclimb'? Sorry, I'd call both of those weak. The conservatively-reasoned answer is to walk off if it is truely just a "walk". If so, most of the time, that is my preference. Many times I have thought something would be way cool to do but the ardor is lost once I hear about training and how complex it can be to do it in a conservatively-reasoned manner. Personally, I can think of only one reason I might do this when there is a walk off ... Self-rescue. When the circumstance is that I've done the training, I have the time, and I'd like to exercise a technique when there is not some kind of time pressure, then I might go through it. ... in this case the technique being moving in and out of rappel/belay while loaded. This fellow said he would really rather rappel. It is good for beginners to hear the philosophy behind walking off instead. ... and also ways it could be done safely if that is the decision. Bill L
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patto
Aug 11, 2010, 2:19 PM
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Im confused why you guys think rappelling in this situation is risky? Hey, why don't we just not climb and walk up the cliff instead. Its trivial to keep safe and secure. Be sensible and this is a non issue. I've rapped off top ropes plenty of times. It beats a 10 minute walk.
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j_ung
Aug 11, 2010, 2:30 PM
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patto wrote: Im confused why you guys think rappelling in this situation is risky? Hey, why don't we just not climb and walk up the cliff instead. Its trivial to keep safe and secure. Be sensible and this is a non issue. I've rapped off top ropes plenty of times. It beats a 10 minute walk. I know of one death from this. The bolts were gated shuts and the anchor material looped itself over the gates as the rappeller was lowering himself down. My point is that, "Be sensible," is pretty general advice for the Beginners Forum. Maybe if you list a few contraindications...
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dingus
Aug 11, 2010, 2:31 PM
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healyje wrote: Can someone here please justify rappelling under these circumstances? Would love to hear a sane reason why one would bother and that would justify incurring the risks involved and the effort necessary to mitigate them. Sure, sooner or later this climber, or some other, will have to climb down below the anchor point of a rappel rope set up. There won't always be a walk off. Its unfortunate the number of silly assed 'maybe do it this way' ideas that drizzle every rc.com technical discussion like this, but its the nature of the beast I'm afraid. To the OP - just use a sling or a draw to temporarily attach yourself to the rigging. Lower yourself over the edge till the sling bears your weight. Adjust or thread your rap rig, pull in some slack, unclip the back of sling and slide down the rope. Its simple. DMT
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