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Rappel from extended top rope anchor?
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sknowlton


Aug 11, 2010, 2:36 PM
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Re: [healyje] Rappel from extended anchor? [In reply to]
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healyje wrote:
If you walked up to set up the TR and the circumstances are as you describe, then there are zero reasons to rappel - skip all the shenanigans and just keep walking back down.

+1

Just walk.
In reply to:


olderic


Aug 11, 2010, 2:56 PM
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Re: [sknowlton] Rappel from extended anchor? [In reply to]
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sknowlton wrote:
healyje wrote:
If you walked up to set up the TR and the circumstances are as you describe, then there are zero reasons to rappel - skip all the shenanigans and just keep walking back down.

+1

Just walk.
In reply to:

What if its the top of a seac cliff that was approached from inland and there is no easy walk down to the base to use after the TR is set up. Otter Cliffs at Acadia is exactly like this and is a favorite haunt of gumbys who demonstrae all these shenanigans and more on a daily basis.

Please learn the differrence between break and brake.


healyje


Aug 11, 2010, 3:02 PM
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Re: [dingus] Rappel from extended anchor? [In reply to]
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dingus wrote:
healyje wrote:
Can someone here please justify rappelling under these circumstances? Would love to hear a sane reason why one would bother and that would justify incurring the risks involved and the effort necessary to mitigate them.

Sure, sooner or later this climber, or some other, will have to climb down below the anchor point of a rappel rope set up. There won't always be a walk off.

We're talking rapping a TR setup where the biners are draped four feet over the edge. He's saying his friends hand-over-handing down the TR rope over the edge in order to start rappeling. How many walkup TR's have you seen where you couldn't just as easily walk back down from? And "quicker" or "fun" or "someday" are all lousy reasons to rap in this scenario.


healyje


Aug 11, 2010, 3:11 PM
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Re: [olderic] Rappel from extended anchor? [In reply to]
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olderic wrote:
What if its the top of a sea cliff that was approached from inland and there is no easy walk down to the base to use after the TR is set up.

Well, sea cliffs are a special case. Best advice under circumstance where you're going to be setting up top ropes with the biners way below the edge and you have to get to the bottom? Given you're probably there for the day doing multiple TRs I'd recommend setting up a separate dedicated rap line under those circumstances.


dingus


Aug 11, 2010, 3:26 PM
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Re: [healyje] Rappel from extended anchor? [In reply to]
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healyje wrote:
dingus wrote:
healyje wrote:
Can someone here please justify rappelling under these circumstances? Would love to hear a sane reason why one would bother and that would justify incurring the risks involved and the effort necessary to mitigate them.

Sure, sooner or later this climber, or some other, will have to climb down below the anchor point of a rappel rope set up. There won't always be a walk off.

We're talking rapping a TR setup where the biners are draped four feet over the edge. He's saying his friends hand-over-handing down the TR rope over the edge in order to start rappeling. How many walkup TR's have you seen where you couldn't just as easily walk back down from? And "quicker" or "fun" or "someday" are all lousy reasons to rap in this scenario.

Sooner or later a climber will have to rappel down from an anchor point that is below the climber. I recommend the OP learn how to handle this situation - walk off can be one option, one he has already exercised.

But being able to get safely down to a rap anchor, rigged and on rappel, is something every climber should know how to do.

DMT


healyje


Aug 11, 2010, 3:44 PM
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Re: [dingus] Rappel from extended anchor? [In reply to]
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dingus wrote:
Sooner or later a climber will have to rappel down from an anchor point that is below the climber. I recommend the OP learn how to handle this situation - walk off can be one option, one he has already exercised.

There is no reason to ever do what his friends are doing. They are in essence being lazy and they think what they are doing is expedient, fun or both. Crawling way over an edge to rap a TR isn't a practice that should be promoted, particularly in a beginners forum.

dingus wrote:
But being able to get safely down to a rap anchor, rigged and on rappel, is something every climber should know how to do.

A real anchor yes, a TR rig way over an edge, no - they should be taught to just walk back down or set up a separate rap line.

[ Sidebar: This is an root problem on RC.com from my perspective - it's quite long on 'technique' relative to gear use and way short on elemental judgment in those same situations. This and folks attempting to 'invent' new ways of doing things tends to leave me just shaking my head sometimes. ]


jolery


Aug 11, 2010, 4:39 PM
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Re: [McRiffle] Rappel from extended anchor? [In reply to]
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+1 for the walk down method - gravity is way less brutal on a trail/path.
If I have to rap from anchors a couple of feet below a safe/unanchored position I pull the rope up, clip in to my ATC, then wrap the rope around my leg a few times, lower by hand, get my brake hand on the rope, then unwrap leg coils. I'm sure someone will say you're gonna die, or cut your leg off, or something, but it's a good backup if you slip just make sure you've got a few wraps around your leg. For more than a couple of feet though I wouldn't use this method. Also - sounds like you are using webbing to extend the anchor - why 4 feet over the edge? I'm assuming there are sharp edges or other features that makes putting the anchor just over the edge impractical.


McRiffle


Aug 11, 2010, 4:45 PM
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Re: [McRiffle] Rappel from extended anchor? [In reply to]
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Thank you all for your help! I like the mule knot idea but I would definitely have to practice with it and see if its for me. The auto block is the same. It sounds like a great back up but I want to test it before I trust my life with it. I think hooking into the anchor with a sling is my best bet until I have more experience. We only have one rope so that leaves out the second anchor rappel for now. We almost always tie into trees and boulders on top and always have a few different anchor points.Im pretty sure they could handle a fall especially a short one. When we make an anchor through bolts we walk down with no second thoughts about rappelling. Maybe because im a noob but I cant put my full trust into those like I can the anchors I watch being tied. So its not the anchors im worried about its just falling due to my mistake. Lets say im going to lower down to the anchor whether its the smartest thing to do or not. Even if I continue to walk down every time I feel like I should have the knowledge for any situation I may incounter. I dont think they will stop so I would like to at least have some kind of backup for my friends. They use nothing but being hooked into the atc for rappelling(which I think is like having no rope at all without your hand on the brake at all times). I just started climbing and I plan to continue for the rest of my life. Your pointers are helping me keep that goal. Im sure one of these pointers are going to be the reason my friends are still alive. Once again, thanks for the help!

Nick


healyje


Aug 11, 2010, 5:00 PM
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Re: [jolery] Rappel from extended anchor? [In reply to]
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Nick,

Being more confident about an anchor you've watched being constructed than anonymous bolts you didn't place is, in general, a good thing as is your walking down even though your friends do the rap - both tell me you have your head screwed on straight. Keep it that way, your skepticism is in no way misplaced and is merely a healthy symptom of possessing good common sense.

So to answer your last question - and purely for the sake of conjecture - I'm with jolery, setup the ATC and do three wraps of the rope down the length of your leg with the final wrap around your ankle and then back over the top of your foot (that last foot detail is important), then climb down the webbing to get on the rappel - don't, under any circumstances, ever go over the edge with just the ATC rigged and no leg wrap or other tie-in. The best advice, however, is still to just walk back down any time you can.


McRiffle


Aug 11, 2010, 5:01 PM
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Re: [jolery] Rappel from extended anchor? [In reply to]
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Thats what im always hoping for when we are on our way to the rock. Im always saying that theres gotta be a better way to set up the anchor so that we can rappell off of it. Some of the cliffs are really sharp below the edge so it makes sense to put it down that far. But the others are not that bad. Maybe he is just to worried about his rope rubbing on the rock at all. I trust my own judgement over any backup but I would still want to know how to get to an extended anchor safely.


McRiffle


Aug 11, 2010, 5:12 PM
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Re: [healyje] Rappel from extended anchor? [In reply to]
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That sounds like a really good idea. I think its the best idea for my friends also. Maybe if they fall it will scare them enough and the tension around the leg gives them enough pain they will start walking down with me. I trust my own judgement and I dont think Ill be rappelling down with them anytime soon if at all. I just needed an answer. I knew they were wrong! Its nice to be able to think that I can do it safely(for the most part) but when im on top of the cliff looking down at the anchor im pretty sure I will always be walking down until I have more experience or a second rope and anchor to rappel. Thanks, I needed that haha


amyas


Aug 11, 2010, 6:28 PM
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Re: [healyje] Rappel from extended anchor? [In reply to]
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healyje wrote:
If you walked up to set up the TR and the circumstances are as you describe, then there are zero reasons to rappel - skip all the shenanigans and just keep walking back down.

I cant believe we got past the first response before someone with good sense chimed in. Not rapping is (almost) always safest if speed isn't an issue- i.e. electrical storm. Thanks healy.


dingus


Aug 11, 2010, 7:06 PM
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Re: [healyje] Rappel from extended anchor? [In reply to]
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healyje wrote:
So to answer your last question - and purely for the sake of conjecture - I'm with jolery, setup the ATC and do three wraps of the rope down the length of your leg with the final wrap around your ankle and then back over the top of your foot (that last foot detail is important), then climb down the webbing to get on the rappel - don't, under any circumstances, ever go over the edge with just the ATC rigged and no leg wrap or other tie-in. The best advice, however, is still to just walk back down any time you can.

Hehe if you'd bothered to say all this the first time I would not have posted at all.

Cheers
DMT


jt512


Aug 11, 2010, 7:16 PM
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Re: [healyje] Rappel from extended anchor? [In reply to]
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healyje wrote:
So to answer your last question - and purely for the sake of conjecture - I'm with jolery, setup the ATC and do three wraps of the rope down the length of your leg with the final wrap around your ankle and then back over the top of your foot (that last foot detail is important)...

What is the purpose of extending the wraps down the leg and around the foot, and would there be anything wrong with putting a knot in the rope below the rappel device, instead of using leg wraps?

Jay


healyje


Aug 11, 2010, 7:41 PM
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Re: [jt512] Rappel from extended anchor? [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
healyje wrote:
So to answer your last question - and purely for the sake of conjecture - I'm with jolery, setup the ATC and do three wraps of the rope down the length of your leg with the final wrap around your ankle and then back over the top of your foot (that last foot detail is important)...

What is the purpose of extending the wraps down the leg and around the foot, and would there be anything wrong with putting a knot in the rope below the rappel device, instead of using leg wraps?

Jay

Simply an inherent dislike of relying solely on gear to do a job I can do without the attending hassle and worry of whether the gear will perform in a mishap. By that I mean I if you fall onto the ATC / knot combo you are wholly dependent on that combination not failing and you have to deal with getting off the knot. The full leg wrap with the lock off across the top of the foot I have complete faith in and I have no concerns at all about it either potentially failing or getting off of it after a short fall.


healyje


Aug 11, 2010, 7:44 PM
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Re: [dingus] Rappel from extended anchor? [In reply to]
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dingus wrote:
Hehe if you'd bothered to say all this the first time I would not have posted at all.

Understood, my priority in these sorts of beginners threads is always to try and backup and start with the basic judgment issues involved with the scenario first and only then get into the gear issues and all their various edge cases.


patmay81


Aug 11, 2010, 8:59 PM
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Re: [McRiffle] Rappel from extended top rope anchor? [In reply to]
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a few ideas;
option a) as already mentioned, set up for your rap, tie off the device, downclimb.
option b) clip into the anchor with enough rope/sling/webbing to allow you to down climb past the master point
option c) if down climbing is not an option, even with the anchor legs as support; fix a piece of static line long enough to get you past the master point. rap using a second device or a clove hitch. (make sure your primary rap device is already to go and back up/tied off).
option d) clip a couple of atriers to the anchor, and aid down to the master point. (use a daisy or sling or see option a)

option e) pay out a bunch of rope, tie it off with a munter/overhand, traverse the cliff and do a big ass rope jump.

(e is not advised, recommended, or even half-heartedly serious)


acorneau


Aug 11, 2010, 9:23 PM
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Re: [patmay81] Rappel from extended top rope anchor? [In reply to]
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patmay81 wrote:
option c) if down climbing is not an option, even with the anchor legs as support; fix a piece of static line long enough to get you past the master point. rap using a second device or a clove hitch. (make sure your primary rap device is already to go and back up/tied off).


I believe Patmay means a Münter hitch. A clove hitch won't get you very far.


patmay81


Aug 11, 2010, 9:28 PM
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Re: [acorneau] Rappel from extended top rope anchor? [In reply to]
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acorneau wrote:
patmay81 wrote:
option c) if down climbing is not an option, even with the anchor legs as support; fix a piece of static line long enough to get you past the master point. rap using a second device or a clove hitch. (make sure your primary rap device is already to go and back up/tied off).


I believe Patmay means a Münter hitch. A clove hitch won't get you very far.

thanks, you might be right Wink


blueeyedclimber


Aug 11, 2010, 9:48 PM
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Re: [McRiffle] Rappel from extended top rope anchor? [In reply to]
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This is along the lines of using a separate static and another device, but this is what I do quite often.

I use static line exclusively, so if you are using webbing, this won't work.

1. Tie a knot in the end of the static and drop it down past where you want your power point.
2. Attach this line via figure 8 knot to first protection.
3. Drop loop with enough to tie power point.
4. Attach to second protection.
5. When finished setting up toprope, lower yourself on the first dropped line with grigri to below power point.
6. Attach second device (atc) to toprope in rappel mode.
7. Either put a backup below the device or Healyje's method of the leg wraps.
8. Detach gri gri and rappel.

I take primarily children out toproping, so this has the added benefit of them being in my sight the whole time Wink

Josh


Partner j_ung


Aug 11, 2010, 10:58 PM
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Re: [healyje] Rappel from extended anchor? [In reply to]
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healyje wrote:
So to answer your last question - and purely for the sake of conjecture - I'm with jolery, setup the ATC and do three wraps of the rope down the length of your leg with the final wrap around your ankle and then back over the top of your foot (that last foot detail is important), then climb down the webbing to get on the rappel...

Annnnnnd you lost me...

I'm sorry, but I think this is a fantastic idea... right up until you actually need it. If the leg wrap back-up comes into play in an actual fall -- rather than just its intended purpose of simply going hands free on rappel -- I have to think rope burn is the minimum consequence. To boot, I can't see a reason why that fall wouldn't end with the rappeller upside down as his leg gets violently yanked upward toward the device. If the anchor is bolts, we're talking about a high-factor fall... onto a rappel device... with the brake wrapped around your body. I have absolutely no idea what the result of such a fall might be, but I assume it won't be pretty.

You folks are welcome to test this. Please report back.

In reply to:
...don't, under any circumstances, ever go over the edge with just the ATC rigged and no leg wrap or other tie-in. The best advice, however, is still to just walk back down any time you can.

Annnnnnd I'm back with you. Smile


(This post was edited by j_ung on Aug 11, 2010, 11:07 PM)


Partner j_ung


Aug 11, 2010, 11:05 PM
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Re: [blueeyedclimber] Rappel from extended top rope anchor? [In reply to]
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blueeyedclimber wrote:
This is along the lines of using a separate static and another device, but this is what I do quite often.

I use static line exclusively, so if you are using webbing, this won't work.

1. Tie a knot in the end of the static and drop it down past where you want your power point.
2. Attach this line via figure 8 knot to first protection.
3. Drop loop with enough to tie power point.
4. Attach to second protection.
5. When finished setting up toprope, lower yourself on the first dropped line with grigri to below power point.
6. Attach second device (atc) to toprope in rappel mode.
7. Either put a backup below the device or Healyje's method of the leg wraps.
8. Detach gri gri and rappel.

I take primarily children out toproping, so this has the added benefit of them being in my sight the whole time Wink

Josh

That's pretty much how I do things, too. If the anchor is bolts, then I just have a rap line to get in. For me, the only other viable option is to walk off.

Doing it any way that involves climbing over the edge of the cliff with your TR anchor below you carries a helluva risk. Sure, you probably have to be pretty inept to screw it up, but if you have a... moment... and actually do manage to screw it up, I think the consequences are going to be high. Certainly in the context of a beginner's forum, I don't think such options should be presented as the best ideas.

EDIT: I know, I know... some situations exist in which there isn't much else to do. There may not be BFTs, BFRs or gear opportunities, or you may be rappelling as a truly necessary mode of transportation. In such cases, I do what needs to be done -- but with a reasonable idea of what the consequences will be for blowing it.


(This post was edited by j_ung on Aug 11, 2010, 11:11 PM)


davidnn5


Aug 11, 2010, 11:18 PM
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Re: [j_ung] Rappel from extended top rope anchor? [In reply to]
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This thread's becoming a cluster however I agree that leg wrapping sounds reasonable in theory but might do massive damage in practice. I wouldn't personally wrap a leg unless I was stationary.

Don't forget the large arteries that run through your leg, and with constriction / shock loading even a rounded object like a rope can cut flesh deeply.


dingus


Aug 11, 2010, 11:21 PM
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Re: [davidnn5] Rappel from extended top rope anchor? [In reply to]
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Becoming?

DMT


Partner j_ung


Aug 11, 2010, 11:21 PM
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Re: [McRiffle] Rappel from extended anchor? [In reply to]
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McRiffle wrote:
That sounds like a really good idea. I think its the best idea for my friends also. Maybe if they fall it will scare them enough and the tension around the leg gives them enough pain they will start walking down with me. I trust my own judgement and I dont think Ill be rappelling down with them anytime soon if at all. I just needed an answer. I knew they were wrong! Its nice to be able to think that I can do it safely(for the most part) but when im on top of the cliff looking down at the anchor im pretty sure I will always be walking down until I have more experience or a second rope and anchor to rappel. Thanks, I needed that haha

I think you'll be just fine, McR.

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