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aulwes
Nov 12, 2001, 5:35 AM
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Registered: Jun 26, 2001
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I curious what everyone likes for small cracks? And Why?
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darkside
Nov 12, 2001, 6:16 AM
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Registered: Sep 15, 2001
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I love to get my nuts into a small crack
The local rock is limestone so DMM wallnuts fit the irregular cracks with the scooped faces of the nuts accommadating small protrusions. Small cams work OK too or the pink tricam goes great in horizontal cracks.
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rrrADAM
Nov 12, 2001, 6:22 AM
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Registered: Dec 19, 1999
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I sew up climbs with BD Stoppers, so if t'll take a stopper/nut, that's what I'll place. If not, gotta place a cam, since I don't use tricams.
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saltspringer
Nov 12, 2001, 8:33 AM
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Registered: Oct 12, 2001
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depends on the crack: if I'm near my limit for leading, I'll tend to use either BD Camalot Juniors or Metolius TCU's since they're easy to deploy when you're in a panic: if you don't get the placement quite right you can clip it straight away & then play with it later...with nuts, you need to work it in & then get a draw on & then clip it & by then you may be too pumped. I prefer a good solid Wild Country Rock or BD stopper when I get a chance
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greatgarbanzo
Nov 12, 2001, 5:32 PM
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Registered: Oct 13, 2001
Posts: 360
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BD, metolious and alien cams or maybe BD or HB stopers... depends on cracks and pump... usually anything that will hold a fall well...
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talons05
Nov 12, 2001, 6:44 PM
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Registered: Aug 23, 2001
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For the "smaller than one inch" variety, I usually just use some nuts. For super small cracks, the best pro out there is ball nuts, like Camp or Lowe.
AW
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camhead
Nov 12, 2001, 7:27 PM
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
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Aliens whenever possible for me. I do agree with the DMM for irregular limestone stuff, however.
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traddaddy
Nov 16, 2001, 3:18 PM
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Registered: Sep 25, 2001
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HB Stopper are great.
I am just getting used to the tricams, though.
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bmsullivan
Dec 13, 2001, 3:43 AM
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Registered: Aug 23, 2001
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I definitely prefer BD nuts on the smaller cracks. It seems most every fall I have taken has been on one of these and so far they have held. Should have read the post on seconding earlier, as I had to leave one behind (fell on it 4 times). However, if the crack is horizontal, I will place a tri cam. Like the other posts in here, if I am really pumped or lossing focus, I plug a metolious fcu in.
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