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Dip
Aug 17, 2010, 1:18 PM
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I've never been to the Gunks on a weekend. I hate crowds and will avoid them at all costs. But.... a friend of mine only has the option of weekend climbing, and i'd really like to get up there with him. So, how bad is it on a Sunday in August? Miserable? Do you have to stand in line for anything remotely cliassic (say Modern Times for instance)? Would i be better off going to the Nears? Any help and/or advice is appreciated.
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gblauer
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Aug 17, 2010, 1:55 PM
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I climb there every weekend and often during the week. While I prefer weekdays, I never have a problem getting on climbs during the weekend. If you stay in the Uberfall it will be crowded. If you walk down the carriage road the crowds really thin out. Further if you climb until dark (especially on Sundays) the crowds really thin out (in the 2-3ish range).
Also, if you climb 9's, 10's and up you will never have a problem finding available climbs. If you are in the moderates, you will have to look around and sometimes you may have to wait. That said, I never wait and I will often stay up on the GT ledge and run up the second pitches of lots of different climbs.
Generally speaking the Nears is less crowded, but, there are fewer climbs to choose from should it be crowded. Classics like Roseland, Birdland, Birdcage are often busy.
Finally, you could walk to Millbrook, Lost City or rope up at Peterskill (they limit to 70 cars in the lot).
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Gmburns2000
Aug 17, 2010, 2:11 PM
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what Gail said ^^ 100%
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Dip
Aug 17, 2010, 3:06 PM
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Thanks guys. I guess in my head i took the stories of crowds to an extreme. I usually go during the week, and even then i avoid the uberfall area, would never dream of trying that on a weekend.
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smallclimber
Aug 17, 2010, 5:21 PM
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We climb most weekends throughout the spring, summer and fall and August will be a lot quieter than October! A very hot forcast will put people off, as will the threat of a storm. As Gail already said the higher grade climbs are rarely taken. I have also found the further you walk the quieter the climbs get (OK with the exception of the super classics like High E and Bonnie's roof area).
The Nears are quieter and the far end of the Nears are essentially deserted these days (this is past the no entry area so you have to walk round the top). While this area may not have some of the classics you are thinking about its great being the only people climbing down there.
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Dip
Aug 17, 2010, 5:38 PM
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I'm looking for solid 8's and 9's. I've only been there twice, and i've been trying to take it slow to see where i stand on the grades. First time up i did High E, second time i did Madame G's, Arrow, and Annie Oh. All were fairly easy, although Annie Oh was definitlely thought provoking. Just want quality climb. And i have my heart set on Modern Times.
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gblauer
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Aug 17, 2010, 6:53 PM
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Dip,
Suggested climbs;
Absurdland 8
Triangle 9-
Son of easy o 8
City Lights 8-
CCK 8
Bonnie's Roof 9
Ant's Line 9
No Glow 9 (no one will be on this one!)
Keep on Struttin' hard 9
Apoplexy 9
MF 9
Airy Aria 8
Double Crack 8
Directissima 9
Gosh, there are sooo many more...but, that's a good start.
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Dip
Aug 17, 2010, 8:10 PM
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I have Ants Line, bonnies, and CCK on my "todo" list. In fact i've read up on all these, and i wish i lived a little bit closer, so i could make it up more often. I do want to do directissima, but i'm kind of saving it for when my regular climbing partner gets the balls to lead, then he could do the fun part of High E. Like you said, with so many great climbs, i should be okay saving that one for a bit.
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boymeetsrock
Aug 17, 2010, 8:22 PM
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If you're at the McCarthy wall, I've always enjoyed Higher Stannard (9) and Something Interesting (8?) isn't boring.
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Dip
Aug 17, 2010, 8:25 PM
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something interesting leads into the dangler doesn't it? Have to admit, despite the whole Gunks cliche photo op thing, i wouldn't mind having that picture...
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boymeetsrock
Aug 17, 2010, 8:31 PM
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Yep. There is a good reason some of the routs are so photographed at the Gunks... They are really photogenic !
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gblauer
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Aug 17, 2010, 8:32 PM
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Dip wrote: something interesting leads into the dangler doesn't it? Have to admit, despite the whole Gunks cliche photo op thing, i wouldn't mind having that picture...
Make sure you have a camera on CCK!
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Dip
Aug 17, 2010, 8:47 PM
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I never leave home without it. Just talked to my friend, we'll be there on the 29th, maybe i'll see you there.
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gblauer
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Aug 17, 2010, 9:28 PM
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maybe...I am a short, whiny red head who is usually rubbing her feet between climbs!
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Dip
Aug 17, 2010, 11:16 PM
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tall balding white guy here, probably hiding said baldness with a red sox hat.
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rangerrob
Aug 18, 2010, 12:30 AM
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If you are looking to avoid crowds, then you need to head to Millbrook. However, if you like your climbing sterilized and gauranteed, then you better stay in the Trapps. You may wind up not climbing at all if you miss the rappel into Millbrook. You may not be able to find anything other than Westward Ha!, the gear situation may scare the crap out of you. It's an adventure for sure.
Lost City is an option, but again, it is not sanitized. You have no idea what you are getting on. A lot of people don't like that. It can make for super exciting and adrenaline filled climbing though.
All that being said, you can just leave the list of 3 star routes at home and just climb whatever looks good to you as you walk the Trapps. That always invites adventure, and you're sure to not wait in line.
have fun!
RR
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Gmburns2000
Aug 18, 2010, 1:08 AM
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Dip wrote: tall balding white guy here, probably hiding said baldness with a red sox hat.
nice hat.
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bill413
Aug 18, 2010, 2:27 AM
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Chiming in late, but...
If you have your heart set on a specific climb, well, you might have to wait for it. If you are willing to jump on whatever (that appeals to you), you don't have to wait.
The way I deal with the Uberfall area is luck of the draw. If I'm walking by & one I would like to do is open, I jump on it. Otherwise, I just walk on. That strategy actually works out pretty well.
[Tip]Move to the base of the climb you want to do BEFORE you pull out your sandwich for lunch. Don't eat, then go look for the climb.[/tip]
(This post was edited by bill413 on Aug 18, 2010, 2:27 AM)
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climbingbetty22
Aug 18, 2010, 2:51 AM
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Double Crack is another great .8, right next to CCK technically a .7, but still a quality climb.
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blueeyedclimber
Aug 19, 2010, 1:03 PM
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climbingbetty22 wrote: Double Crack is another great .8, right next to CCK technically a .7, but still a quality climb.
They are not right next to each other. Are you thinking of the first pitch of erect direction (which is also an 8). That is right to the left of Cck (definitely a 7).
Josh
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Dip
Aug 19, 2010, 2:50 PM
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That your profile picture is rad and i want it, only with me in it instead of you. 
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blueeyedclimber
Aug 19, 2010, 4:02 PM
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Dip wrote: I have Ants Line, bonnies, and CCK on my "todo" list. In fact i've read up on all these, and i wish i lived a little bit closer, so i could make it up more often. I do want to do directissima, but i'm kind of saving it for when my regular climbing partner gets the balls to lead, then he could do the fun part of High E. Like you said, with so many great climbs, i should be okay saving that one for a bit.
Those are all GREAT, CLASSIC climbs, but here is a list of 7's, 8's and 9's that are also good, but are a little more obscure or a further walk away, if you want to avoid the crowds.
Overhanging Layback 5.7
Silhouette 5.7
Te Dum 5.7
Main Line 5.8
Eastertime Too 5.8
Bold-Ville 5.8
Grand Central 5.9 (not so obscure, but it wasn't mentioned and is one of my favorite 9's)
CCK Direct 5.9 (also not obscure, but is just as classic as the original)
Inverted Layback 5.9 (Eat your Wheaties for this one)
Le Teton 5.9+
If you are looking to do any 10's, let me know. I have done quite a few of them, and IMO that is when the GREAT climbing starts at the Gunks.
Josh
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Dip
Aug 19, 2010, 4:28 PM
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I'm still a little iffy/intimidated by 10's. On bolts no problem, but i haven't been leading on gear for that long, a little over a year, and i don't wanna get in over my head.
I figure there's enough great moderates there to get really comfortable with my placements before pushing it up a notch. If you know of any 10's with super solid gear the whole way i may give it a go, but overall it's just a little bit outside my comfort zone, for now. Hopefully next year i'll have the mileage in where i feel confident enough to lead harder routes.
That being said, i still may do the dangler next weekend...
Edited to fix grammar
(This post was edited by Dip on Aug 19, 2010, 4:41 PM)
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johnwesely
Aug 19, 2010, 4:38 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: Dip wrote: I have Ants Line, bonnies, and CCK on my "todo" list. In fact i've read up on all these, and i wish i lived a little bit closer, so i could make it up more often. I do want to do directissima, but i'm kind of saving it for when my regular climbing partner gets the balls to lead, then he could do the fun part of High E. Like you said, with so many great climbs, i should be okay saving that one for a bit. Those are all GREAT, CLASSIC climbs, but here is a list of 7's, 8's and 9's that are also good, but are a little more obscure or a further walk away, if you want to avoid the crowds. Overhanging Layback 5.7 Silhouette 5.7 Te Dum 5.7 Main Line 5.8 Eastertime Too 5.8 Bold-Ville 5.8 Grand Central 5.9 (not so obscure, but it wasn't mentioned and is one of my favorite 9's) CCK Direct 5.9 (also not obscure, but is just as classic as the original) Inverted Layback 5.9 (Eat your Wheaties for this one) Le Teton 5.9+ If you are looking to do any 10's, let me know. I have done quite a few of them, and IMO that is when the GREAT climbing starts at the Gunks. Josh
+1 for Grand Central. That climb is one of the raddest .9s around.
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