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rsmiller
Dec 18, 2002, 7:56 PM
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After several years of trying to pull a wall trip together it is going to happen.
We are going to do Space Shot in January (weekend of the 17th). We are planning to spend at least one night on the wall - I know many people fire it off in a day but I am green.
Any idea on the amount of traffic the route gets in January?
I have read that the bolt ladder on pitch 8 above Earth Orbit Ledge is pretty worn and manky with some real reaching. Anyone have beta concerning this?
Any other beta about the route is appreciated!!!
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wigglestick
Dec 18, 2002, 8:12 PM
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I know you are green but consider not hauling on Spaceshot. It sucks. Believe me I know. We had to bail from the top of P5 due to a bad storm so I can't help you out with the beta about the bolt ladder above earth orbit.
The first three pitches suck. Try to get the bag near the base of the Alpine start pillar and haul from the top of P2. Hauling up that chimney sucks. There are some fixed pins on the ledge that can help you direct the haul line away from the chimney. Don't do the bushwhack on P3. Instead go straight up from the anchors on P2.
(Keep in mind that all this I am telling you is stuff that I didn't do and suffered because of it)
You can bivy at the top of pitch 3 without a portaledge. But that is probably the only place. I have heard that it is possible on Earth Orbit but very uncomfortable.
Short of blasting the route in a day you might want to consider fixing pitches 1-4 one one day. Then going into town for some pizza and a beer and then blasting the rest the next day. Traffic shouldn't be much of a problem in January.
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rocknpowda
Dec 18, 2002, 8:16 PM
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Spaceshot was my first "wall" ever. We got the bag up the first few pitches by having the second climb with it on their back as the leader belayed them and kept tension on the haul line. $#!&ty but it worked pretty smoothly.
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rsmiller
Dec 18, 2002, 8:18 PM
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How was the hauling above P3? Did you have a large bag or a small one?
We are going to take a small pig just enough for the essentials and a night on the wall. I am green but the fella that I am going with is not.
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dsafanda
Dec 18, 2002, 8:24 PM
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Spaceshot was my first wall as well. We spent a night on the wall(top of pitch 6). The hauling on the first three pitches is horrible. The hauling on the rest of the route is extremely easy. You should however bring a lower out line because the route follows a diagonal path.
I don't remember the bolts on the final pitch being difficult.
Here's a little Flash trip report/slide show I put together...
http://www.safanda.com/flash/spaceshot/index.htm
It's a great route. I want to go back some day and do it in a day.
[ This Message was edited by: dsafanda on 2002-12-18 12:34 ]
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rsmiller
Dec 18, 2002, 8:28 PM
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Thanks for the info. Did you haul up the alpine start also?
I read some where that the bolts were really reachy - I am only 5'5".
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dsafanda
Dec 18, 2002, 8:36 PM
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I remeber reading that hauling up alpine start would make things easier but we didn't do it that way. I can't remember why. We just made sure that one guy stayed with the bag so that it could be lifted, kicked, pushed over obstacles.
btw. I'm 6'2" so that may explain why I don't remember any of the bolts being reachy.
[ This Message was edited by: dsafanda on 2002-12-18 12:51 ]
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sierramike
Dec 18, 2002, 8:49 PM
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I haven't done Space Shot, but have done other walls, including some solo stuff in Yosemite. Anyhow, I'm on the short side as well (5'6") and the item that saves me much headache, and fear, is a stick clip. They work super well and allow you to get past manky, or missing, gear. Good luck.
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rsmiller
Dec 18, 2002, 8:56 PM
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Now that is a great idea! Did you make yours or buy one of the commercial ones?
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dsafanda
Dec 18, 2002, 9:00 PM
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I've never had to use a cheater stick but here's an idea for ya. Does your ledge's fly come with a tent pole? I know most of the A5 ledges do. Anyway, that tent pole would double as a great cheater stick.
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wigglestick
Dec 18, 2002, 9:08 PM
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You can probably make an "equalizer" stick out of a long quickdraw, a coat hanger or piece of rigid plastic and some duct tape. This way you can carry it on your rack and there is no need to dig into the haul bag everytime you are 5 inches short of reaching a bolt.
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sierramike
Dec 18, 2002, 9:12 PM
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I bought the clip in portion at a climbing shop. About $10, I think. Next, I bought 4 tent poles, around 18-24" and threaded shock cord through them. Check out army surplus shops for these. The shock cord is VERY important. Next, I tied some string (small cord--3-4mm) to the clip in portion and had it the length of the entire stick. The string allows you to pull the stick off a 'biner should it get stuck. Be sure to tape the clip in portion to the tent pole. Leave an old 'biner on the clip in portion so you can clip it to your harness as you climb.
Now, lots of folks will tell you that this isn't the best type of stick clip. And they are right, sort of. A painter's pole is better for stick clipping right off the ground, but I don't want to haul something that big up a wall, so I opt for the tent pole method. It has worked very well for me.
One more thing: make sure that the 'biners you will stick clip will fit in the clip in portion. Not all 'biners fit. Good luck and have a blast.
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rsmiller
Dec 18, 2002, 9:15 PM
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Even better idea.... what about using a rubber band to hold the gate open.
Any other beta on the route?
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sierramike
Dec 18, 2002, 9:24 PM
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Sure. Just make sure that the gate slams home when you remove the stick.
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rockprodigy
Dec 18, 2002, 9:43 PM
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I've done spaceshot twice. I'm 5'7" and the bolts are not at all reachy. Keep in mind that a shorter person can usually get higher in their aiders. Also, many people consider a stick clip to be cheating.
It's going to be F--ing cold there at night in january, and there's only about 10 hours of daylight, so ask yourself what you're going to do for 14 hours on a portaledge. I really like the suggestion of fixing the first few pitches, then doing the rest in a day. That said, a reasonably competent party should be able to easily do the entire route in a day.
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rsmiller
Dec 18, 2002, 9:50 PM
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Yea, we have considered the cold and are hoping for some good weather. We’ll see. Fixing is always an option if the weather looks poor.
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epic_ed
Dec 18, 2002, 10:01 PM
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Cold? Yeah...in spades! Then again, I'm an Arizona wuss. Kinda used to being warm. We went up last February (ended up not climbing anything) and it was mighty cold for us. We are heading back up there about the time you are--might be looking at Moonlight Buttress. Let us know how it goes. Hope you have fun.
Ed
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flamer
Dec 18, 2002, 11:46 PM
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My buddy soloed the route about 2 weeks ago...sick %@#$er did it at night(so he could pass while people slept) and in like 11 hours! He told me- I just asked him- the bolts are no big deal, also some wuss apparently added a bolt to the top of the bolt ladder(pitch4) so you can avoid the blown out pinscar. Also if you take a #1 lowe ball the crux is C1.
The day time in January is nice the night sucks! Have fun!
josh
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cologman
Dec 19, 2002, 12:08 AM
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While I haven't done Spaceshot yet, I did Moonlight last early Feb. We watched a guy Solo spaceshot over 2 days. Looked cold. I would recommend Moonlight over Spaceshot but only because of the warmer aspect it presents. I'm with those who suggest fixing and blasting. Beer...Portaledge, Beer...Portaledge, Beer....Portaledge, Beer...Beer...Beer...Beer!
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flamer
Dec 19, 2002, 10:18 PM
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Ah, no offense, but spaceshot is in the sun all day...moonlight only gets like 2 hours.. did you mix up the names?
josh
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dsafanda
Dec 19, 2002, 10:49 PM
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That doesn't seem right either. Those two routes are on either side of a north/south canyon. They should be receiving similar amounts of sunlight during the coarse of a day. Spaceshot gets afternoon sun while Moonlight gets moring sun. Touchstone wall wich faces south should be getting the most sun this time of year.
[ This Message was edited by: dsafanda on 2002-12-19 16:17 ]
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skywalker
Dec 19, 2002, 11:24 PM
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Dude! Spaceshot is gravy in terms of placements, etc. It was my first wall too. We tried to do it in a day but realized we weren't going to make it. So we fixed up through the first aid pitch and fired it the next day, no problem. We were very green. After a couple pitches you figure it out and you move faster. My advice is not to haul anything to heavy. Earth orbit would suck to bivi on because its not flat. Descending with a big haul bag would suck too because of the many down climbs you have to do. If it is dark when you are decending be sure to rap to the first ledge on the first rappel. That is the first rappel is SHORT, then walk downstream along the ledge and find the anchors above the chimney. The rest are pretty plum. We did it in the dark and rapped too far on the first rap. Fix and Fire! Cheers!!!
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