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rocknrock
Aug 23, 2010, 3:22 AM
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I heard many french climbers don't use chalk is that true? I'm curious because I've seen some claim chalk makes things worse for them, I sweat a lot and am considering not using chalk to see how it goes. It's more of a problem for me indoor than out, gyms tend to be hot and stifling in so cal with limited airflow.
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kriso9tails
Aug 23, 2010, 3:59 AM
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I don't think that it actually is true as a general statement, but I'm not really in the know on what climbers do in France. I heard that pof is still used in certain areas like Fontainebleau, but that chalk usage is growing in those same areas these days. Again, not really my area of expertise, just what I've heard. In terms chalk usage in general, well, it's mostly your business. I could be off the mark, but my suspicion is that oily fingers are responsible for more grief than sweat. Washing your hands thoroughly before climbing, when possible, may have more of an impact than anything else. After that you should be able to get away with chalking less.
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curt
Aug 23, 2010, 4:16 AM
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kriso9tails wrote: I don't think that it actually is true as a general statement, but I'm not really in the know on what climbers do in France. I heard that pof is still used in certain areas like Fontainebleau, but that chalk usage is growing in those same areas these days. Again, not really my area of expertise, just what I've heard... The two are not compatible--that's for damn sure. At Font, many problems have been ruined forever by the use of pof (rosin) and repeating a problem coated with pof by merely employing chalk is nearly impossible, in many cases. Fortunately, it is also true that most of the higher standard problems being established at Font these days are done with chalk and not with pof. Curt
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kachoong
Aug 23, 2010, 1:08 PM
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rocknrock wrote: I heard many french climbers don't use chalk is that true? I've heard many don't wear pants either, but I doubt it's a cultural thing... needing adequate ventilation is universal.
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milesenoell
Aug 23, 2010, 1:21 PM
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kriso9tails wrote: I don't think that it actually is true as a general statement, but I'm not really in the know on what climbers do in France. I heard that pof is still used in certain areas like Fontainebleau, but that chalk usage is growing in those same areas these days. Again, not really my area of expertise, just what I've heard. In terms chalk usage in general, well, it's mostly your business. I could be off the mark, but my suspicion is that oily fingers are responsible for more grief than sweat. Washing your hands thoroughly before climbing, when possible, may have more of an impact than anything else. After that you should be able to get away with chalking less. +1 I very rarely use chalk ( I like cracks more than face) but I noticed that when I started using sunscreen --and then washing my hands really well to get all the sunscreen off-- my grip was at it's best. I'm a believer in the thorough hand wash now.
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yanqui
Aug 23, 2010, 3:00 PM
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Actually, the truth of the matter is that the Frenchies have become so enthusiastic about chalking up that they've developed the chalking ritual into a two part process, the second stage consisting of what's known as the "French blow". This involves touching the five fingers of the dipped hand together, bringing the hand up near the mouth and then simultaneously blowing the fingers while flicking them apart, causing a small cloud of chalk dust to float off into the air. As the French know, good French blow technique can add style points to any difficult redpoint.
(This post was edited by yanqui on Aug 23, 2010, 3:07 PM)
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gmggg
Aug 23, 2010, 3:14 PM
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yanqui wrote: Actually, the truth of the matter is that the Frenchies have become so enthusiastic about chalking up that they've developed the chalking ritual into a two part process, the second stage consisting of what's known as the "French blow". This involves touching the five fingers of the dipped hand together, bringing the hand up near the mouth and then simultaneously blowing the fingers while flicking them apart, causing a small cloud of chalk dust to float off into the air. As the French know, good French blow technique can add style points to any difficult redpoint. Ahh! You beat me to it. I was just looking for a picture to accompany that exact statement. I failed in both ways.
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devkrev
Aug 23, 2010, 4:22 PM
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rocknrock wrote: I heard many french climbers don't use chalk is that true? I'm curious because I've seen some claim chalk makes things worse for them, I sweat a lot and am considering not using chalk to see how it goes. It's more of a problem for me indoor than out, gyms tend to be hot and stifling in so cal with limited airflow. If they start to have a hard time, they just pull on the draws...
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styndall
Aug 23, 2010, 6:28 PM
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kachoong wrote: rocknrock wrote: I heard many french climbers don't use chalk is that true? I've heard many don't wear pants either, but I doubt it's a cultural thing... needing adequate ventilation is universal. This is true. I bouldered out front of LeConte in Yosemite with a French guy who wore a t-shirt, a speedo, and V10s. It was weird as hell.
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kriso9tails
Aug 23, 2010, 6:41 PM
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styndall wrote: kachoong wrote: rocknrock wrote: I heard many french climbers don't use chalk is that true? I've heard many don't wear pants either, but I doubt it's a cultural thing... needing adequate ventilation is universal. This is true. I bouldered out front of LeConte in Yosemite with a French guy who wore a t-shirt, a speedo, and V10s. It was weird as hell. That is weird as hell. Why would anyone wear a shirt bouldering?
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patmay81
Aug 23, 2010, 7:20 PM
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gym climbing, chalk is a must. The plastic is usually so greased up, I need it. I rarely climb in the gym though, so I rarely buy chalk. Climbing outdoors I almost never use chalk. I've seen some chalked up routes that were just as bad as if they had been climbed repeatedly using resin. between the repeated chalk/sweat/hand oil coats; they end up so greased up and slick a 5.9 might as well be a 5.12.
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desertwanderer81
Aug 24, 2010, 9:13 AM
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Chalk is mostly over rated for most climbers, most of the time. Mostly, unless you're moistly!
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bill413
Aug 25, 2010, 11:21 PM
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desertwanderer81 wrote: Chalk is mostly over rated for most climbers, most of the time. Mostly, unless you're moistly! True. I find that on a lot of routes (frequently in gyms) your hands will pick up chalk from all the excess lying on the holds. Try climbing without it, and see how it feels. I think most of the time it's a crutch without real function. There are times when no doubt it helps, but those are far less frequent than the general use of it imagines.
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desertwanderer81
Aug 26, 2010, 12:47 AM
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you want to know where I do actually find chalk useful? On my wrists when I'm crack climbing and it's hot out, hehe. I need to get some sort of body chalk bag for OW's... hmmmm.....
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giza
Aug 26, 2010, 1:08 AM
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Hey fruitcakes, chalk is aid!
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gosharks
Aug 26, 2010, 1:17 AM
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bill413 wrote: desertwanderer81 wrote: Chalk is mostly over rated for most climbers, most of the time. Mostly, unless you're moistly! True. I find that on a lot of routes (frequently in gyms) your hands will pick up chalk from all the excess lying on the holds. Try climbing without it, and see how it feels. I think most of the time it's a crutch without real function. There are times when no doubt it helps, but those are far less frequent than the general use of it imagines. Seriously. I went to Hueco last winter and didn't even bother taking any chalk with me. Basically the only time I use chalk is on gym routes and outside routes when it is warm.
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surfer9joe
Aug 26, 2010, 1:39 AM
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rocknrock wrote: I heard many french climbers don't use chalk is that true? I think you mean deoderant
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curt
Aug 26, 2010, 1:53 AM
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gosharks wrote: Seriously. I went to Hueco last winter and didn't even bother taking any chalk with me. Well, Hueco is a great place to boulder V0. Curt
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