|
Boydson
Apr 4, 2010, 2:25 AM
Post #1 of 15
(6286 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 4, 2010
Posts: 4
|
I used to climb Williamson regulaly but I wouldn't recommend climbing there anymore. Angry native Americans have threatened to kill me multiple times for climbing there, and yes the did have guns. Last time i was there the bolts were pulled any ways. Its not safe to climb anymore.
|
|
|
|
|
gordy
Apr 5, 2010, 8:46 PM
Post #2 of 15
(6181 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 14
|
|
|
|
|
|
Boydson
Apr 5, 2010, 9:24 PM
Post #3 of 15
(6146 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 4, 2010
Posts: 4
|
I am a local. I live about five miles south of the cliff. I always use respect and there are other things going on here. Its land issues not anything personally with climbers. Is only a friendly warning you don't have to head it if you chose not to. Whether you take my advice or not as of last August the bolts had been removed.
|
|
|
|
|
tyler
Apr 5, 2010, 10:13 PM
Post #4 of 15
(6120 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 6, 2004
Posts: 65
|
I've heard with some Indian tribes, if you learn a little of the language and the culture, they will accept you. And in some cases, if you learn the language well enough, they may even make you an honorary member (though this was more common practice in the 19th cen.).
|
|
|
|
|
wrbill
Apr 8, 2010, 6:40 AM
Post #5 of 15
(6080 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 5, 2002
Posts: 228
|
If you are having any problems with the natives let the rangers know so that can handle it. There are some issues with the area and the natives and us climbers need to work with the rangers to make sure that the area stays open. If the natives are making threats with guns in hand then the ranges need to know. Plus if that is the case then it will not be good for the natives. SO PLEASE LET THE RANGES KNOW!
|
|
|
|
|
doktor_g
Apr 8, 2010, 3:53 PM
Post #6 of 15
(6025 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 14, 2003
Posts: 152
|
Boydson,
That's too bad about your interaction with the gun toting nut jobs. However, I've been working very close with the Rangers of Williamson River Cliffs and the Chiloquin Ranger District. We are very close to a managment plan. It was the USFS that pulled the bolts. Before you get mad or want to go on a rant to the Rangers, please call me. The Access Fund is involved on a Regional level with this case. The walls beyond the first pull out are closed currently anyway. Please please please talk to me or the AF before lodging a complaint. PLEASE.
My best,
Dr. Grover Shipman
|
|
|
|
|
doktor_g
Apr 8, 2010, 3:59 PM
Post #7 of 15
(6017 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 14, 2003
Posts: 152
|
For further info and my open letter to the USFS:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...4;page=unread#unread
A recent email from Greg Orton to the AF Regional Coordinator:
Joe,
Thanks for forewarding this message to me. I called Lance today, they are developing an alternative based on local climber response. Lance was very positive about th public response they've received and how well Grover in particular has been to work with in helping them develop reasonable options that he felt has the potential to maintain access to cliffs that they were planning to chop last Sept. It's not over, but I think Lanse and the local Klamath climbers deserve a tramendous amount of credit for turning this around. From the way things were headed last September, I had little hope we could turn this one arround.
Another developement on our end. About a week before Red Rocks I contacted a Forest Service mediator and proposed a mediation involving several key biologists and climbers to evaluate and develop a more reasonable Peregrine closure at the Menagerie. Yesturday I got a call back from the mediator saying the (new) Forest Supervisor and (new) District Ranger are interested. The details are still to be worked out. Would the AccessFund be interested in having someone represent it at the meeting?
I'm not sure why things are all of a sudden looking up here in Oregon, but when it comes to the Forest Service I'm a strong believer in the Butterfly Affect.
greg
|
|
|
|
|
Boydson
Apr 8, 2010, 6:56 PM
Post #8 of 15
(5952 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 4, 2010
Posts: 4
|
This is extremely comforting to hear that some one is actually working toward keeping this place open and compromising with both parties involved (the climbers and the natives) Have you been up there recently? Is it rebolted? |
|
|
|
|
doktor_g
Apr 10, 2010, 6:23 AM
Post #9 of 15
(5900 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 14, 2003
Posts: 152
|
No bolting. The second wall is closed currently until the official management plan comes out.
The AF and my proposed plan is summed up as follows:
1. Trail access only by the first gully.
2. No foot traffic or top outs on the second wall
3. Yes that means all second wall routes must be led. No topropes.
4. All route access is via the broken trail on the bottom. No cliff top walking except the first wall due to Native cultural areas.
If this is successful we (you and I and others) will rebolt the top anchors in more appropriate positions so as to discourage (prohibit) top roping. This is the best we could do and we might not even get this.
Grover
Again if you climb there now limit only to the first wall. Sport Route 5.9 on the far right and left to The Crimp 5.11+
|
|
|
|
|
wrbill
Apr 13, 2010, 1:34 PM
Post #10 of 15
(5831 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 5, 2002
Posts: 228
|
Good to hear that things are going good with the Willy. It would be nice if they let the third wall get the bolts for TR and the one sport route that was there. Thanks for all your hard work Grover.
Bill
(This post was edited by wrbill on Apr 13, 2010, 1:41 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
Boydson
Jun 24, 2010, 12:06 AM
Post #11 of 15
(5629 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 4, 2010
Posts: 4
|
Is there any news of the area being reopened. It's not that I love the climbing but since it's 15 miles away its convenient. I don't really want to climb there though until I know exactly what is happening, just so I don't mess anything up with your negotiations.
|
|
|
|
|
wrbill
Jun 24, 2010, 2:19 AM
Post #12 of 15
(5560 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 5, 2002
Posts: 228
|
From what I know the first wall is open to climbing. All the areas to the north of the first wall are closed. I'm not sure so the best thing would to check with Doctor_g or the FS.
|
|
|
|
|
anarkhos
Jul 4, 2010, 1:01 AM
Post #13 of 15
(5491 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 1, 2006
Posts: 229
|
doktor_g wrote: 3. Yes that means all second wall routes must be led. No topropes.
As it should be!
Hell, remove all the bolts and have one or two rap stations.
The only reason I have for walking the cliff line is to retrieve anchors due to lack of a rap station :-\
|
|
|
|
|
chizzops
Aug 29, 2010, 7:27 AM
Post #14 of 15
(5295 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 24, 2006
Posts: 4
|
So am I to understand that there isn't anymore sport climbing here? I don't recall much to tie off from up top, and I don't have much trad gear. 
|
|
|
|
|
wrbill
Aug 29, 2010, 8:29 AM
Post #15 of 15
(5272 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 5, 2002
Posts: 228
|
To answer your question about the sport routes. There was only six sport routes at the Williamson. There is three routes on the 1st wall and was two routes on the 3rd wall.
Freaky 5.7 and Bold & Beautiful 5.11c/d, both of them were on the 3rd wall next to the pine tree, but all the hangers have been pulled by the Forest Rangers. All anchors on the 3rd wall have been pulled.
There is still three sport route on the 1st wall. Left Crimp 5.11?, The Crimp 5.12a?, and Elephant Express 5.10a.
With the closing of the 3rd wall down only two sport routes are gone. Plus climbing is only allowed on the 1st wall at this time till a plan can be worked out with the FS. If you have any question about the area just let me know. I have done a guide for the area.
|
|
|
|
|
|
