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What Belay device to use with 12.5 mm rope???
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dan2see


Sep 1, 2010, 10:27 PM
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Registered: Mar 29, 2006
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Re: [meanandugly] What Belay device to use with 12.5 mm rope??? [In reply to]
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meanandugly wrote:
Simple...munter for a single person load, such as you would have in the only real climbing application that a rope of this diameter would be appropriate for...toprope.

Dooh! !! for all of us.

Of course a Munter would work, and it's safe for beginners.

But looking ahead, when you guys start having fun and getting more into climbing, you'll start wondering what to do with that stupid fat rope.

So once again, I say: Get a regular climbing rope! Munter works great with that too, but all the other belay devices work just as well.


extreme_actuary


Sep 2, 2010, 12:23 AM
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Re: [Brenthuntermeeks] What Belay device to use with 12.5 mm rope??? [In reply to]
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Brenthuntermeeks wrote:
The ATC's they have arent big enough. Get bigger ones?

I would get a bigger ATC. I use a huge ATC when I belay with ropes in the 12-16mm range.

I am surprised nobody has mentioned the "Boot Axe Belay." It seems ideal for this situation.


bill413


Sep 2, 2010, 1:19 AM
Post #28 of 40 (1761 views)
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Registered: Oct 19, 2004
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Re: [extreme_actuary] What Belay device to use with 12.5 mm rope??? [In reply to]
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extreme_actuary wrote:
Brenthuntermeeks wrote:
The ATC's they have arent big enough. Get bigger ones?

I would get a bigger ATC. I use a huge ATC when I belay with ropes in the 12-16mm range.

I am surprised nobody has mentioned the "Boot Axe Belay." It seems ideal for this situation.

Because the foot belay (already mentioned) is simpler & uses less specialized gear.


wiki


Sep 2, 2010, 5:46 AM
Post #29 of 40 (1727 views)
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Registered: Sep 10, 2007
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Re: [tower_climber] What Belay device to use with 12.5 mm rope??? [In reply to]
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tower_climber wrote:
In reply to:
The other guys here are right, it's not a climbing rope.

In reply to:
In short, you have a rope useless for the tasks you need it for.

In reply to:
this rope is the wrong rope to use for recreational climbing and totally inappropriate.

This is just simply not true. A rope of the size that the poster references is no good for lead climbing, but to assume that everyone who climbs does so on lead is ignoring a whole different aspect of the sport.

I've already sent a PM to the original poster, but I will comment here as well.

Several companies (PMI springs to mind right off the bat) make static 12.5mm ropes designed for climbing. A 12.5 rope can easily be used for top roping, a I have seen several ropes courses and climbing towers that employ PMI Classic 12.5 or New England KMIII 13mm ropes in top rope and rescue situations. The ropes work very well in these applications.

Under these circumstances, an ATC will not work as a belay device. The slots in an ATC are too narrow to fit a 12+mm rope. Larger ropes work quite well with a Trango Jaws device and may function with a Reverso3, which has wider slots but I have not tested that device on these larger ropes.

Neither of the ropes mentioned in this post should be used for lead climbing. They are heavier than dynamic ropes and have very little stretch. Climbing lead with a static rope is asking for injury. But in a top rope situation with a low fall factor and a solid anchor point up top, there is no reason a static rope would not work.

+1

I LOVE having another RAT on this site! (I know there are more, but you seem onto-it (and keen to impart your knowledge) tower_climber!)

To the OP...

Rope access uses 10.5-13mm semi-static ropes that are more robust than climbing ropes - ideal for a TOP-ROPE situation at a camp - they take alot of abuse! (I have led on them on occasion at work in a don't-fall situation but do not recommend this)

To add... Check that it is actually a climbing/rope access rope before you go further. If it IS a boat rope (can look very similar to a rated climbing rope) don't use it!

If you have an industrial rope, an industrial device would be a good thing to use with it. They are designed to work well with semi-static ropes (where climbing gear isn't really).

A Petzl I.D would be good to use with a thick rope like this. Self-locking and panic functions. Because of the panic functions, it is hard to take in rope without lots of practice.

Failing this, a Petzl RIG. Cheaper and smaller without the panic functions - easier to take in with. Works like a Grigri without the external cam to get caught on things (and hold open etc...). Maybe works more like a Cinch or an Eddy...

I personally use a RIG at work - Rappelling, work-positioning, aid climbing and belaying. They are smoother than a Grigri to belay with - they feed like an ATC. Lowering is smoooooth with heavy and light climbers alike. I would love to take it out recreationally but I would look like a dick.

There are more devices of different brands out there but I am most familiar with Petzl gear.

Hope this helps!


acorneau


Sep 2, 2010, 3:00 PM
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Re: [meanandugly] What Belay device to use with 12.5 mm rope??? [In reply to]
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meanandugly wrote:
Simple...munter for a single person load, such as you would have in the only real climbing application that a rope of this diameter would be appropriate for...toprope.

You'll need to use one of those big-ass biners like Majid's new one.


tower_climber


Sep 2, 2010, 5:13 PM
Post #31 of 40 (1691 views)
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Re: [wiki] What Belay device to use with 12.5 mm rope??? [In reply to]
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Hey wiki! I'm learning a lot from the climbers on here, and starting to rethink some of the things I do in regard to rope access and SRT anchoring. Good to know I have some compatriots out there.

You make a very good point about matching industrial ropes to industrial devices. But I would advocate a Jaws over an I.d, a RIG or even a GriGri to any camp I work with. Expense, ease of use and ease of training all factor in to a camp situation, and I believe that a tube-style device wins out in all three categories.

I still teach supervising staff members about using the GriGri if they have one on-site, but I advise its use only as a rope access, self-belay aid for inspection and maintenance.


wiki


Sep 2, 2010, 8:07 PM
Post #32 of 40 (1661 views)
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Registered: Sep 10, 2007
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Re: [tower_climber] What Belay device to use with 12.5 mm rope??? [In reply to]
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I have never used a Jaws so I can't recommend it! I'll take your word for it though Smile

I am going in the opposite direction to you... I was a climber first and using more of my Rope Access skills in climbing now!

I would still teach on an ATC or other climbing belay device when I'm instructiong climbing on standard sized ropes

What sort of work do you do on towers?


killingmorethancancer


Sep 6, 2010, 2:21 PM
Post #33 of 40 (1554 views)
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Registered: Jan 24, 2010
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Re: [edge] What Belay device to use with 12.5 mm rope??? [In reply to]
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LMFAO HAHAHAH This is wonderful


killingmorethancancer


Sep 6, 2010, 2:28 PM
Post #34 of 40 (1551 views)
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Registered: Jan 24, 2010
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Re: [Brenthuntermeeks] What Belay device to use with 12.5 mm rope??? [In reply to]
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Is there a market for belay devices built for ropes made to hold up buildings? Im going to get rich if not.


tower_climber


Sep 7, 2010, 1:36 AM
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Registered: Aug 25, 2010
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Re: [killingmorethancancer] What Belay device to use with 12.5 mm rope??? [In reply to]
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killingmorethancancer wrote:
Is there a market for belay devices built for ropes made to hold up buildings? Im going to get rich if not.

Not quite buildings, but the PortaWrap IV is a popular arborist "belay" device rated for up to 19mm ropes. These tree-lowering bull lines are rated at over 20,000 lbf (88kN). There is a market, but it's already firmly sated.

WinkWinkWink




killingmorethancancer


Sep 7, 2010, 1:42 AM
Post #36 of 40 (1531 views)
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Registered: Jan 24, 2010
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Re: [tower_climber] What Belay device to use with 12.5 mm rope??? [In reply to]
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Lol Nice, so would I tie in on a bowline or an 8 for that rope?


tower_climber


Sep 7, 2010, 1:57 AM
Post #37 of 40 (1523 views)
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Re: [killingmorethancancer] What Belay device to use with 12.5 mm rope??? [In reply to]
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Hahaha good thinking! I'd go with a bowline. You might need to tie in through the belay loop though. A .75" rope might not fit through the tie-in loops.


MS1


Sep 7, 2010, 12:02 PM
Post #38 of 40 (1494 views)
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Re: [tower_climber] What Belay device to use with 12.5 mm rope??? [In reply to]
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tower_climber wrote:
Hahaha good thinking! I'd go with a bowline. You might need to tie in through the belay loop though. A .75" rope might not fit through the tie-in loops.

But what if I wanted to tie in to a 2-inch-thick steel cable? What knot would you recommend in that case?


tower_climber


Sep 7, 2010, 1:29 PM
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Re: [MS1] What Belay device to use with 12.5 mm rope??? [In reply to]
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A Figure-9. You don't want to cut the rated strength of that stuff too much. TongueTongue

I'd get out the grip trainer though. That stuff can be a royal bitch to bend.


bill413


Sep 7, 2010, 6:10 PM
Post #40 of 40 (1458 views)
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Registered: Oct 19, 2004
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Re: [tower_climber] What Belay device to use with 12.5 mm rope??? [In reply to]
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Figure 8, bowline, Figure 9 - bah. Go with an eye splice to preserve the best strength.

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