|
ranshadmi
Sep 11, 2010, 7:53 PM
Post #1 of 22
(14913 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 31, 2007
Posts: 17
|
Hi all,
I plan to submit my master thesis at the end of October, worst case end of November. Before venturing back into the real-life, I want to make a ~2 months climbing trip. What I'm looking for is:
1. Good weather
2. High-quality single-pitch sport routes. Not interested in trad, multipitch or bouldering.
3. Easy access - camp-ground/hostel within walking distance from the crags.
4. As I may be traveling alone (not sure yet), I need a good place to find climbing partners.
Any advice would be highly appreciated!
Oh, right, I can lead up to 7c (5.12d I think), if that matters...
Thanks,
Ran
|
|
|
|
|
rock_fencer
Sep 11, 2010, 8:03 PM
Post #2 of 22
(14910 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 7, 2005
Posts: 752
|
Red River Gorge KY, New River Gorge WV, Obed TN, Smith Rock OR
Having a car would be good, and partners can be easily had at RRG and NRG and Smith. Only at Smith can you really walk to the crag but it might be pretty cold by then. I'll let some locals chime in.
Tzlil
|
|
|
|
|
yevquest
Sep 11, 2010, 11:47 PM
Post #3 of 22
(14875 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 13, 2002
Posts: 71
|
I'll chime in on some of the suggestions posted above:
The Red: I think this would be your best bet IF you get there as early as possible. The scene sort of dies with Thanksgiving with Miguel's closing and many people heading to warmer climates. The pros are you can easily find very good routes in your grade range and partners (pre-thanksgiving. No walking to the the crags but easy to find people to carpool with.
The New: A little colder than the Red and a little harder to find people to climb with in late Nov and Dec. More spread out than the Red but you can walk to some of the crags from the camping (ie Rogers and Kaymoor).
The Obed: Has many sunny walls and a decent number of good, steep 5.12s. The problem is with finding partners as there really aren't that many people there during the week (if any). There's a new hostel there that I know nothing about.
Smith: No idea.
Other ideas: Vegas/St. George. Red rocks has some decent sport climbing in the 5.12 grade. You've also got Potasi, Arrow, and the suburban limestone areas. Can be harder to find people to climb with. Around Mesquite and St. George you've got the VRG, the St. George Limestone areas, and some sandstone and basalt areas. Lack of a central scene can make partners problematic.
Potrero Chico: Not in America but it fits a lot of your criteria. Easy to find people to climb with, walking to the crags, fairly dependable winter weather. The single pitch sport climbing there is pretty good but not great. It's still sort of cheap but nothing like it was 10 years ago.
Hope that helps, good luck with your trip.
|
|
|
|
|
jbro_135
Sep 14, 2010, 12:23 AM
Post #4 of 22
(14791 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 15, 2009
Posts: 662
|
yevquest wrote: Potrero Chico: Not in America but it fits a lot of your criteria. Easy to find people to climb with, walking to the crags, fairly dependable winter weather. The single pitch sport climbing there is pretty good but not great. It's still sort of cheap but nothing like it was 10 years ago. Hope that helps, good luck with your trip.
yer gonna die
|
|
|
|
|
ranshadmi
Sep 15, 2010, 11:18 AM
Post #5 of 22
(14719 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 31, 2007
Posts: 17
|
Thanks for all your info!
jbro_135: I didn't quite get it, do you wish me to die or you just think that I'm going to die? if the former, then why?? if the latter, why & how will I die exactly? will it be a slow death? please elaborate...
Anyway, that's besides the point. I wanted to add that I'm not living in the US, so options in Europe (too cold?) or other places around the globe are also possible.
After some digging in the Internet my two main alternatives are El-Potrero-Chico (Mexico) and El-Chorro (Spain). Would love to hear your opinions about these two options - or any other option I haven't thought about.
Thanks again!
Ran
|
|
|
|
|
USnavy
Sep 15, 2010, 2:34 PM
Post #6 of 22
(14682 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 6, 2007
Posts: 2667
|
ranshadmi wrote: Thanks for all your info! jbro_135: I didn't quite get it, do you wish me to die or you just think that I'm going to die? if the former, then why?? if the latter, why & how will I die exactly? will it be a slow death? please elaborate... Anyway, that's besides the point. I wanted to add that I'm not living in the US, so options in Europe (too cold?) or other places around the globe are also possible. After some digging in the Internet my two main alternatives are El-Potrero-Chico (Mexico) and El-Chorro (Spain). Would love to hear your opinions about these two options - or any other option I haven't thought about. Thanks again! Ran
El Potrero Chico is awesome; it is the number one spot in North America for multi-pitch sport climbing. EPC houses the longest multi-pitch sport route in North America (if not the world), Time Wave Zero, V 5.12a, 23 pitches, 2300 feet, a must do if you make it down there. It has hundreds of other grade III and IV multi-pitch sport routes as well. For the most part all you need is a single 70m and a rack of draws to climb the lines there as well, no bullshit dragging up some heavy second rope just so you can rap. You can camp less than a five minute walking distance from the crag. Most of the routes have a short approach time. You can literally get on a 15 pitch long sport route 150 feet from your car.
Additionally you can go to a highly "off the road" type semi-hidden crag called El Salto. You would love it there, its heaven for 5.12 to 5.13+ climbers with hundreds of routes in the 5.12 to 5.14- range, all long (often around 15 bolts long). It’s a bit of a bitch to get there as its pretty much in the middle of nowhere (its right outside a small village) but once your there its amazing. It’s about a three hour drive from El Potrero Chico.
If your into multi-pitch sport, there is no question, EPC is the only place in North America to go. If you are into single pitch sport, well there are better places, but few that are comfortable in the winter. EPC is pretty much your best bet for winter sport climbing.
Another option is Thailand. Obviously not in North America but it’s also high on “best winter sport climbing destinations” list.
(This post was edited by USnavy on Sep 15, 2010, 2:35 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
jbro_135
Sep 15, 2010, 3:07 PM
Post #7 of 22
(14667 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 15, 2009
Posts: 662
|
ranshadmi wrote: Thanks for all your info! jbro_135: I didn't quite get it, do you wish me to die or you just think that I'm going to die? if the former, then why?? if the latter, why & how will I die exactly? will it be a slow death? please elaborate... Anyway, that's besides the point. I wanted to add that I'm not living in the US, so options in Europe (too cold?) or other places around the globe are also possible. After some digging in the Internet my two main alternatives are El-Potrero-Chico (Mexico) and El-Chorro (Spain). Would love to hear your opinions about these two options - or any other option I haven't thought about. Thanks again! Ran
You'll probably get murdered by a drug cartel. Mexico isn't very safe right now.
|
|
|
|
|
spikeddem
Sep 15, 2010, 3:26 PM
Post #8 of 22
(14656 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2007
Posts: 6319
|
jbro_135 wrote: ranshadmi wrote: Thanks for all your info! jbro_135: I didn't quite get it, do you wish me to die or you just think that I'm going to die? if the former, then why?? if the latter, why & how will I die exactly? will it be a slow death? please elaborate... Anyway, that's besides the point. I wanted to add that I'm not living in the US, so options in Europe (too cold?) or other places around the globe are also possible. After some digging in the Internet my two main alternatives are El-Potrero-Chico (Mexico) and El-Chorro (Spain). Would love to hear your opinions about these two options - or any other option I haven't thought about. Thanks again! Ran You'll probably get murdered by a drug cartel. Mexico isn't very safe right now.
Despite the strawman, I'd like to point out that Spain is not actually in Mexico.
|
|
|
|
|
potreroed
Sep 15, 2010, 8:21 PM
Post #9 of 22
(14619 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 30, 2001
Posts: 1454
|
In spite of what you hear on the news El Potrero Chico is safe and has what you're looking for: good weather, easy access and about 700 single pitch routes--just because a route is long doesn't mean you have to climb past the first pitch!!!
|
|
|
|
|
jbro_135
Sep 16, 2010, 1:44 AM
Post #10 of 22
(14583 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 15, 2009
Posts: 662
|
spikeddem wrote: jbro_135 wrote: ranshadmi wrote: Thanks for all your info! jbro_135: I didn't quite get it, do you wish me to die or you just think that I'm going to die? if the former, then why?? if the latter, why & how will I die exactly? will it be a slow death? please elaborate... Anyway, that's besides the point. I wanted to add that I'm not living in the US, so options in Europe (too cold?) or other places around the globe are also possible. After some digging in the Internet my two main alternatives are El-Potrero-Chico (Mexico) and El-Chorro (Spain). Would love to hear your opinions about these two options - or any other option I haven't thought about. Thanks again! Ran You'll probably get murdered by a drug cartel. Mexico isn't very safe right now. Despite the strawman, I'd like to point out that Spain is not actually in Mexico.
i'd like to point out two things:
a) you suck at reading
b) el portrero chico is in mexico
|
|
|
|
|
BoltWar
Sep 16, 2010, 2:32 AM
Post #11 of 22
(14574 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 14, 2009
Posts: 45
|
jbro_135 wrote: spikeddem wrote: jbro_135 wrote: ranshadmi wrote: Thanks for all your info! jbro_135: I didn't quite get it, do you wish me to die or you just think that I'm going to die? if the former, then why?? if the latter, why & how will I die exactly? will it be a slow death? please elaborate... Anyway, that's besides the point. I wanted to add that I'm not living in the US, so options in Europe (too cold?) or other places around the globe are also possible. After some digging in the Internet my two main alternatives are El-Potrero-Chico (Mexico) and El-Chorro (Spain). Would love to hear your opinions about these two options - or any other option I haven't thought about. Thanks again! Ran You'll probably get murdered by a drug cartel. Mexico isn't very safe right now. Despite the strawman, I'd like to point out that Spain is not actually in Mexico. i'd like to point out two things: a) you suck at reading b) el portrero chico is in mexico
Who sucks at reading?
|
|
|
|
|
jbro_135
Sep 16, 2010, 2:36 AM
Post #12 of 22
(14572 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 15, 2009
Posts: 662
|
BoltWar wrote: jbro_135 wrote: spikeddem wrote: jbro_135 wrote: ranshadmi wrote: Thanks for all your info! jbro_135: I didn't quite get it, do you wish me to die or you just think that I'm going to die? if the former, then why?? if the latter, why & how will I die exactly? will it be a slow death? please elaborate... Anyway, that's besides the point. I wanted to add that I'm not living in the US, so options in Europe (too cold?) or other places around the globe are also possible. After some digging in the Internet my two main alternatives are El-Potrero-Chico (Mexico) and El-Chorro (Spain). Would love to hear your opinions about these two options - or any other option I haven't thought about. Thanks again! Ran You'll probably get murdered by a drug cartel. Mexico isn't very safe right now. Despite the strawman, I'd like to point out that Spain is not actually in Mexico. i'd like to point out two things: a) you suck at reading b) el portrero chico is in mexico SUre but wheres Spain smart guy. MEXICO? Who sucks at reading?
FU troll STFU n' DIE LOL
|
|
|
|
|
ranshadmi
Sep 16, 2010, 8:48 AM
Post #13 of 22
(14542 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 31, 2007
Posts: 17
|
jbro_135 wrote: You'll probably get murdered by a drug cartel. Mexico isn't very safe right now.
Seriously. What's the latest beta as to safety issue at or around EPC?
Ran
|
|
|
|
|
jbro_135
Sep 16, 2010, 6:26 PM
Post #14 of 22
(14492 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 15, 2009
Posts: 662
|
ranshadmi wrote: jbro_135 wrote: You'll probably get murdered by a drug cartel. Mexico isn't very safe right now. Seriously. What's the latest beta as to safety issue at or around EPC? Ran
Honestly you probably won't get shot, but it's a pretty unstable area right now as far as I can tell. Lots of journalists being kidnapped/murdered etc. As a climber you probably wouldn't have any trouble, but it's something to keep in mind.
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
Sep 16, 2010, 6:40 PM
Post #15 of 22
(14487 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
Go to Thailand. Way more fun than the Potrero.
|
|
|
|
|
zeke_sf
Sep 16, 2010, 6:43 PM
Post #16 of 22
(14484 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 28, 2006
Posts: 18730
|
ranshadmi wrote: jbro_135 wrote: You'll probably get murdered by a drug cartel. Mexico isn't very safe right now. Seriously. What's the latest beta as to safety issue at or around EPC? Ran
Personally, I'd go with the guy whose user name includes "potrero" in it. Although, you may be into the whole bro thing, I don't know. I am also unaware of current conditions there, but the area is probably safer than Israel. It also meets your criteria of plenty of climbing pards, walking to the crag, weather, the whole shebang. That said, there's better limestone sport out there.
|
|
|
|
|
jbro_135
Sep 16, 2010, 7:02 PM
Post #17 of 22
(14471 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 15, 2009
Posts: 662
|
zeke_sf wrote: ranshadmi wrote: jbro_135 wrote: You'll probably get murdered by a drug cartel. Mexico isn't very safe right now. Seriously. What's the latest beta as to safety issue at or around EPC? Ran Personally, I'd go with the guy whose user name includes "potrero" in it. Although, you may be into the whole bro thing, I don't know. I am also unaware of current conditions there, but the area is probably safer than Israel. It also meets your criteria of plenty of climbing pards, walking to the crag, weather, the whole shebang. That said, there's better limestone sport out there.
I'm sure ed's experience is a little different, being a local who probably speaks the language instead of some gringo lost and wandering around monterrey. Mexico safer than Israel???
|
|
|
|
|
zeke_sf
Sep 16, 2010, 7:11 PM
Post #18 of 22
(14464 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 28, 2006
Posts: 18730
|
jbro_135 wrote: zeke_sf wrote: ranshadmi wrote: jbro_135 wrote: You'll probably get murdered by a drug cartel. Mexico isn't very safe right now. Seriously. What's the latest beta as to safety issue at or around EPC? Ran Personally, I'd go with the guy whose user name includes "potrero" in it. Although, you may be into the whole bro thing, I don't know. I am also unaware of current conditions there, but the area is probably safer than Israel. It also meets your criteria of plenty of climbing pards, walking to the crag, weather, the whole shebang. That said, there's better limestone sport out there. I'm sure ed's experience is a little different, being a local who probably speaks the language instead of some gringo lost and wandering around monterrey. Mexico safer than Israel???
Yeah, Ed speaks the language and has a vested interest in the place, but my experience there during similar conditions showed Hidalgo to be fairly sedate. You've never heard of terrorist attacks in Israel, that whole East Bank/Gaza thing?
|
|
|
|
|
jbro_135
Sep 16, 2010, 7:30 PM
Post #19 of 22
(14449 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 15, 2009
Posts: 662
|
i'm a political scientist i have an ok grasp of these situations...
(not a brofessor yet though)
(This post was edited by jbro_135 on Sep 16, 2010, 7:30 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
technogeekery
Sep 21, 2010, 4:47 AM
Post #20 of 22
(14317 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 17, 2009
Posts: 146
|
A couple of people have said it already - go to Thailand...
warm, safe, lots of potential partners, endless routes at your level of ability, 2-10 min walk from your cheap accommodation, cheap as chips (once you are there), loads to do on rest days, and swedish backpackers to coo admiringly at you over your sundowner cocktails by the beach.
is there any other choice really?
|
|
|
|
|
ranshadmi
Sep 29, 2010, 10:13 PM
Post #21 of 22
(14127 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 31, 2007
Posts: 17
|
technogeekery wrote: A couple of people have said it already - go to Thailand... is there any other choice really?
I've been to Thailand a few years ago, during a September. Suffered terribly from the heat and humidity. Would it be any different during December/January?
|
|
|
|
|
ikefromla
Oct 10, 2010, 11:24 PM
Post #22 of 22
(13896 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 23, 2002
Posts: 1216
|
RED ROCKS.
DUH.
|
|
|
|
|
|
