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RockGroundMountain
Sep 15, 2010, 4:45 AM
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well hello there, i understand that the grigri is possibly the worst option for a multipitch climb, still is the only belay device i own that allows me to do multipitch. So the question is once i get to the top of the first pitch after belaying the second climber do i belay the person whose leading with the grigri clipped to the anchor or do i use it as if i was on the ground (clipped to my harness)?
Thanks!
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Colinhoglund
Sep 15, 2010, 4:56 AM
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Remember you NEED something to rappel with unless there is a safe walk off.
That being said, no matter which device you use (maybe some exception somewhere) wether belaying the 1st or 11th pitch you lead belay the same way, off your harness. Don't forget, the leader must not fall before clipping the first piece!
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clc
Sep 15, 2010, 5:04 AM
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Hey maybe read the frigging instruction? What a crazy idea. http://www.petzl.com/...145110B_D145100A.pdf
Also Colin should read the instructions then he would realize you can rap with a grigri too.
(This post was edited by clc on Sep 15, 2010, 5:05 AM)
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RockGroundMountain
Sep 15, 2010, 5:04 AM
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thanks bro for the quick reply!
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salamanizer
Sep 15, 2010, 5:04 AM
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Either way works if you know what you're doing.
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BoltWar
Sep 15, 2010, 5:04 AM
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RockGroundMountain wrote: well hello there, i understand that the grigri is possibly the worst option for a multipitch climb, still is the only belay device i own that allows me to do multipitch. So the question is once i get to the top of the first pitch after belaying the second climber do i belay the person whose leading with the grigri clipped to the anchor or do i use it as if i was on the ground (clipped to my harness)? Thanks!
doubles do not hurt to have in some cases also, but this may confuse you.
Find a partner/mentor and have fun.
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Colinhoglund
Sep 15, 2010, 5:18 AM
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Well, yes and no. You can rappel on a single strand. But if you want to get your rope back without complex tom-foolery you'll need to rap on double strands. Besides a 30m rappel on a GriGri will kill your rope's sheath in quick order.
Proud user of an ATC Guide, belay lead, 2nd and rappel with ease!
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bearbreeder
Sep 15, 2010, 5:36 AM
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gri gri works great for multi sport climbs... in fact i prefer it due to the autolock for lead ... i wouldnt use it personally for trad
you can rappel perfectly fine on a single strand ... you just have to learn how safely
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bearbreeder
Sep 15, 2010, 5:38 AM
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Colinhoglund wrote: Well, yes and no. You can rappel on a single strand. But if you want to get your rope back without complex tom-foolery you'll need to rap on double strands. Besides a 30m rappel on a GriGri will kill your rope's sheath in quick order. Proud user of an ATC Guide, belay lead, 2nd and rappel with ease!
a 30 m rap is the same thing as a 30 m lower off a gri gri ... lol
it hasnt killed m y ropes yet
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guangzhou
Sep 15, 2010, 5:53 AM
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I use various devices to belay, sport of trad. I've used and love the gri-gri on multi-pitch. When belaying the leader, I keep it on my harness. When belaying the follower, i sometime use it on my harness, sometime on fixed tot he anchor.
I love the Gri-Gri on big walls. Especially long aid pitches.
As for getting down, I've used the Gri Gri for that too. Setting up the rope is pretty easy to do. Not sure why you would say a 30 meter rappel would cause so much damage, I use mine on full 70 meter repela all the time.
I really like the gri gri when I am bolting sport routes. Makes drilling much easier.
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gosharks
Sep 15, 2010, 5:59 AM
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bearbreeder wrote: a 30 m rap is the same thing as a 30 m lower off a gri gri ... lol
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bearbreeder
Sep 15, 2010, 6:47 AM
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gosharks wrote: No it isn't.
in terms of wear it is ... or less ... a 30m rap wont "hurt" the rope anymore than a 30m lower
(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Sep 15, 2010, 6:55 AM)
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guangzhou
Sep 15, 2010, 6:56 AM
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bearbreeder wrote: gosharks wrote: No it isn't. in terms of wear it is ... or less ... a 30m rap wont "hurt" the rope anymore than a 30m lower
Completely agree.
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USnavy
Sep 15, 2010, 7:11 AM
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RockGroundMountain wrote: well hello there, i understand that the grigri is possibly the worst option for a multipitch climb,=
(This post was edited by USnavy on Sep 15, 2010, 9:29 AM)
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ozoneclimber
Sep 15, 2010, 8:01 AM
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Single strand raps are extremely easy to set up, and lowering a leader/top-roper causes the exact same stress, wear and tear on ropes as rappeling does... Think about it. Are you doing anything at all different???
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dingus
Sep 15, 2010, 10:15 AM
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20 bucks says you add another belay device to your kit...
DMT
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Lbrombach
Sep 15, 2010, 11:41 AM
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bearbreeder wrote: gosharks wrote: No it isn't. in terms of wear it is ... or less ... a 30m rap wont "hurt" the rope anymore than a 30m lower
Not to nitpick too much, and I couldn't give you a number, but there is a significant reduction in force on the device while lowering vs rapping because of the resistance of the rope running over the rings.
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viciado
Sep 15, 2010, 11:46 AM
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dingus wrote: 20 bucks says you add another belay device to your kit... DMT
And if he's not picky, for 20 bucks, he could!
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spikeddem
Sep 15, 2010, 1:33 PM
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Kartessa
Sep 15, 2010, 2:02 PM
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RockGroundMountain wrote: still is the only belay device i own that allows me to do multipitch.
???
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redlude97
Sep 15, 2010, 2:12 PM
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spikeddem wrote: Lbrombach wrote: bearbreeder wrote: gosharks wrote: No it isn't. in terms of wear it is ... or less ... a 30m rap wont "hurt" the rope anymore than a 30m lower Not to nitpick too much, and I couldn't give you a number, but there is a significant reduction in force on the device while lowering vs rapping because of the resistance of the rope running over the rings. ???
(This post was edited by redlude97 on Sep 15, 2010, 2:17 PM)
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cruxstacean
Sep 15, 2010, 2:13 PM
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redlude97 wrote: spikeddem wrote: Lbrombach wrote: bearbreeder wrote: gosharks wrote: No it isn't. in terms of wear it is ... or less ... a 30m rap wont "hurt" the rope anymore than a 30m lower Not to nitpick too much, and I couldn't give you a number, but there is a significant reduction in force on the device while lowering vs rapping because of the resistance of the rope running over the rings. Friction through the chains/biners decrease the force by ~40% during lowering. Whether this actually contributes to decreased wear i dunno, but in theory a rap has to dissipate more energy than a lower Try lowering 30m and rapping 30m with any belay device and see which heats up the rap device more...
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spikeddem
Sep 15, 2010, 2:17 PM
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Woah woah woah. I've been misattributed somebody else's words in your guys' quotes.
My deleted post was a couple of question marks, that I was later able to picture in my head. It wasn't anything like what you guys have me quoted as saying.
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spikeddem
Sep 15, 2010, 2:19 PM
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omfg just delete the whole thread or the cheesetit will spread like a virus infecting other threads
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kennoyce
Sep 15, 2010, 2:24 PM
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Kartessa wrote: RockGroundMountan wrote: still is the only belay device i own that allows me to do multipitch. ???
My thoughts exactly, do you own more than just the grigri, and if so, what is this mystery device that works for single pitch but not multipitch? I know of no such device. The closest I can think of is an ATC sport, but even it can be used for multipitch belaying, and rapping a single strand.
To answer your question, of course a grigri works for multipitch, and you lead belay the exact same way you would lead belay on the ground. I prefer my ATC Guide to the grigri, but either will work.
The only other thing I should add to this thread is that you should not be doing any multipitch climbing if you have to ask a question like this online. You need to find someone who is experienced enough to know what to do and have them take you up a multipitch so that you can learn the correct way to do things.
(This post was edited by kennoyce on Sep 15, 2010, 4:12 PM)
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