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Trad or sport?
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mariejolie


Aug 10, 2010, 8:18 PM
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Trad or sport?
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Hey, I'm beginner and was wondering where I can find sport routes around New York, or Albany?

Thanks

Marie


edge


Aug 10, 2010, 8:22 PM
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Re: [mariejolie] Trad or sport? [In reply to]
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mariejolie wrote:
Hey, I'm beginner and was wondering where I can find sport routes around New York, or Albany?

Thanks

Marie

You will have a relatively hard time finding much in the way of sport routes in that area. However if trad is an option, then you are very close to a near lifetime of world class climbs at the Gunks.


mariejolie


Aug 10, 2010, 8:56 PM
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Re: [edge] Trad or sport? [In reply to]
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Do you know where I can find sport routes on the north est coast?


edge


Aug 10, 2010, 8:59 PM
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mariejolie wrote:
Do you know where I can find sport routes on the north est coast?

New Hampshire has the highest concentration close to you. Rumney would be best, Sundown has a few as well, and then a handful of other areas close by with a small selection of sport routes.


mariejolie


Aug 10, 2010, 9:11 PM
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Thanks!!


bill413


Aug 10, 2010, 10:29 PM
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Re: [mariejolie] Trad or sport? [In reply to]
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[whisper]Trad or Sport - It's all climbing[/whisper]


rhythm164


Aug 11, 2010, 2:16 AM
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Re: [mariejolie] Trad or sport? [In reply to]
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Closest sport climbing to you is likely Little Falls. There's a good handful of bolted lines there, unfortunately not much for the beginning climber/leader. Wind Wall has a fun low commitment 5.7 warm up, which is the easiest bolted line in town. After that bolt equipped routes routes range from 5.10 to 5.13. Many of the routes including most all the quality lines are listed in the routes section of this website. There are a handful of bolted lines at Adirondacks crags, but you'll have the same problem in finding routes suitable for a new climber. If you're looking for a good smattering of sport at all grades point yourself towards Rumney NH and enjoy.


cacalderon


Aug 14, 2010, 1:38 AM
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Re: [mariejolie] Trad or sport? [In reply to]
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Best areas based on your description

sport = rumney
trad = gunks and adirondacks


(This post was edited by cacalderon on Aug 14, 2010, 1:38 AM)


rtwilli4


Aug 18, 2010, 11:16 PM
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Forget about sport. You live in a wonderful trad. area. Don't waste your time. Climb trad and Ice or learn to ski.


andrewshipley


Sep 17, 2010, 8:58 PM
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Re: [mariejolie] Trad or sport? [In reply to]
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the gunks are some of the best trad 5.7 8 9 routes out there definitely worth it besides theres not many other options you can meet some prople in that area at http://www.climbersconnect.com hope this helps see you at the top!
Andrew


c4c


Sep 19, 2010, 11:03 AM
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Re: [andrewshipley] Trad or sport? [In reply to]
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There is amazing sport climbing less than an hour north of Albany. Around the Lake George area. Buy the Adirondack rock guide book. Stop in to Rocksport climbing gym in Queensbury and ask or stop in at the EMS store in Hilton (I87 exit15) and ask for Todd.

PS- if you guys don't know what you are talking about you shouldn't reply


freedan


Sep 19, 2010, 4:58 PM
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Re: [mariejolie] Trad or sport? [In reply to]
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Wind Wall and other bolted stuff on that side of tracks is private property, get owner's permission first.

Shanty has a few and AdirondackRock will guide you to others.


rhythm164


Sep 19, 2010, 7:00 PM
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Re: [freedan] Trad or sport? [In reply to]
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freedan wrote:
Wind Wall and other bolted stuff on that side of tracks is private property, get owner's permission first.

Shanty has a few and AdirondackRock will guide you to others.

Yea, I should have mentioned that. I hear that guys is not super friendly. If you go to Shanty, make sure you pull into the clearing RIGHT NEXT TO the guardrail to avoid an epic approach. Not that I speak from experience or anything... Oh, and be damn sure you pack a head net, it gets brutal back there.


(This post was edited by rhythm164 on Sep 19, 2010, 7:00 PM)


freedan


Sep 19, 2010, 7:13 PM
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Re: [rhythm164] Trad or sport? [In reply to]
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Shanty now has a nice little parking pull off, walk across road, down to campsite, cross river and now there is a beaten herd path right to the cliff (that avoids thrashing through the swamp). Easy access unless Sacandaga is running high.


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