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eclarke98
Dec 19, 2002, 11:29 PM
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...I edited the title of the post now that I know what this is...
So I just got some older climbing gear from a friend and in it was this Chouinard double beak like piton thing. It's about 3" high and 2.25" wide, roughly the same size as my A5 beaks. There is no taper from the center to the tip of the beak part, but the entire "head" of it is raised up at an angle which would give it camming action if placed in a vertical crack then weighted. I don't think it could be driven with a hammer because there really isn't a good striking surface. So has anyone used one of these or know what it's actually called? I'm just curious.
http://www.eddieclarke.com/doublebeak.jpg
[ This Message was edited by: eclarke98 on 2002-12-19 19:53 ]
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tim
Dec 19, 2002, 11:33 PM
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Is that a Crack'N'Up? I've been told by several people that it is a crying shame Chouinard stopped making those.
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dsafanda
Dec 20, 2002, 12:45 AM
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Interesting...looks like it is desinged to work either left facing or right facing corners by simply flipping it around.
[ This Message was edited by: dsafanda on 2002-12-19 16:46 ]
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copperhead
Dec 20, 2002, 1:29 AM
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Yup, that’s a Crack’N’Up. Pretty cool piece of history, aint it?
If I remember correctly, Chouinard made 6 different sizes, based on thickness. It would be cool to see BD make these again but it will probably never happen. Hold onto ‘em if you’ve got some... they’re collectors’ pieces now.
And you can see where The Bird got the idea for the Birdbeak – just chop off one side, give the ‘beak’ a little bit of a taper on a grinder and there you have it... a Beak. Wasn’t there a picture of one of these modified pieces in a R&I article back in the late 80’s? You know, the article about Bridwell and the FA of The Big Chill on HD? At one point, he was using beaks that were cut out of saw blades. Whatever works, right?
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pywiak
Dec 20, 2002, 1:36 AM
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The cool thing about Crack'N'Ups is the slight tweak between the head and the stem. This makes for a camming action that can lock the tip into very shallow placements. There is also a slight taper between the bottom and top of each "beak" (like a stopper). A #4 Crack'N'Up is one key to a clean ascent of "Misbegotten", Mission Gorge, San Diego.
[ This Message was edited by: pywiak on 2002-12-19 17:39 ]
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dsafanda
Dec 20, 2002, 2:03 AM
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Copperhead, you taking a break from the ST forum to play in the kiddie pool for a bit? You busted me as well.
btw. Not really directly related to the subject but...Copperhead has a kick ass collection of big wall photos up on Supertopo right now. It's worth checking out...
http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/progallery.html?gid=13
[ This Message was edited by: dsafanda on 2002-12-19 18:33 ]
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copperhead
Dec 20, 2002, 2:49 AM
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Uhhh... I guess so.
Thanks David.
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flamer
Dec 22, 2002, 7:33 PM
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Uh, those krack-n-up's are actually really $#!&ty piece's! Don't believe a word any of these people have said. Being the nice guy that i am I would be willing to take these terrible piece's of $#!& off your hands for say 5 bucks a piece? Wouldn't want you to get stuck with them....
josh
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copperhead
Dec 22, 2002, 7:46 PM
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Ha ha ha ha ha...
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