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eric_k
Sep 25, 2010, 6:19 AM
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Sorry I am sure this is a repeat post but I did try to search.
I bought some cordelette this summer, it was 6.5mm of PMI I think. After a summer of mild use it is still too stiff. Will this stuff loosen up more or should I look into getting a different set?
Do you have any suggestions on a good type? Again, sorry if this is a repost.
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csproul
Sep 25, 2010, 1:05 PM
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eric_k wrote: Sorry I am sure this is a repeat post but I did try to search. I bought some cordelette this summer, it was 6.5mm of PMI I think. After a summer of mild use it is still too stiff. Will this stuff loosen up more or should I look into getting a different set? Do you have any suggestions on a good type? Again, sorry if this is a repost.
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clc
Sep 25, 2010, 9:40 PM
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just use normal 8mm cord. I bet the stuff you have is 5.5mm spectra and it will always be "stiff"
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tedman
Sep 25, 2010, 10:01 PM
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8mm cord for cordalette? talk about bulk! No, I know the stuff you are talking about 6mm pmi... I have one cord of the same stuff, its like freaking wire. For my primary cordalette I use one of the 8ft mammut 8mm contact slings http://www.rei.com/product/751490. Suuuper low bulk and no knot to snag things up. Has its downsides (can't untie to use for other things, dosnt do prussiks because its so slick, only 8 feet), but I find I can make it work for most anchor situations.
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bill413
Sep 25, 2010, 10:27 PM
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If it hasn't loosened up yet, it probably won't. Some folks use 8mm, some use 7mm, nylon/perlon.
In theory I like the slightly dynamic properties of this over the spectra cords.
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eric_k
Sep 26, 2010, 1:20 AM
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Thanks for the suggestions,
My biggest problem is trying to tie prusiks with this stuff. I need to wrap the cord around the rope at least 6 times before it will grab. I guess I will start looking for something else soon.
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clc
Sep 26, 2010, 1:27 AM
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I wouldn't go below 7mm nylon for a cordellete for strength reasons. I use about 20ft, then tie with doublefishermans. use 5-6mm for prussiks.
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socalclimber
Sep 26, 2010, 3:49 AM
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Like bill said, if it hasn't loosened up yet, it likely won't.
Ignore the 8mm advice. 7mm nylon is fine. I've got some of the 7mm "tech" cords (spectra, dynema) what ever you want to call it. I have used them extensively in guiding and they are still stiff as well.
These are not bad products, just a bit of a pain to use.
With 8mm you're going to need longer lengths and have more bulk. Not really optimal. 7mm is fine.
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chilli
Sep 26, 2010, 3:50 AM
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tedman wrote: ...For my primary cordalette I use one of the 8ft mammut 8mm contact slings...
to each his own, but personally, i don't like the suggestion on two accounts.
1) i like the versatility of a good 20+ft of cord (which, as you mentioned, is limited by this mammut sling)
2) the nylon cord offers a better dynamic distribution on impact. i'm not a big proponent of the dreaded shock-load (though i do buy into the principle); but i'd prefer to have a little more give in my system than dyneema/spectra offers
OP:
as far as the suggestion for cordalettes themselves, i'm happy with 7mm (not any less). my partner likes 8mm. IMHO either way, doubled over, you have the tensile strength plus some. this has already been stated.
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climbingaggie03
Sep 26, 2010, 4:19 AM
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I use 7mm too, 8mm is too bulky, I'd add that instead of the double fishermans which in my experience gets welded over time, I prefer using 2 overhand on a bights, right next to each other. Way easier to untie when you need it, and the second knot keeps the first one from rolling.
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tedman
Sep 26, 2010, 5:36 AM
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chilli wrote: to each his own, but personally, i don't like the suggestion on two accounts. 1) i like the versatility of a good 20+ft of cord (which, as you mentioned, is limited by this mammut sling)
20 ft cord? so a 10 foot loop? or are you talking 40 feet looped into a 20 foot cord? If its 20 ft total, then really the 8' mammut is really a 16 foot cord...always got confused on how they measured slings...
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bill413
Sep 26, 2010, 9:52 PM
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In general, if it's sold in a closed loop configuration it is usually measured in that configuration (so (roughly) 4 feet of webbing = 2 foot sling).
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socalclimber
Sep 27, 2010, 12:31 AM
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Cordelette lengths vary to taste. Some where between 18 and 22 feet end to end is more than sufficient. 7mm will be fine.
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rgold
Sep 27, 2010, 1:24 AM
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I'm not a cordelette fan, but I do have some I use for certain occasions. I've had some from various manufacturers, and I think the 7mm Sterling Rope cordelettes are the best because, at least in my experience, they are the most flexible.
http://www.sterlingrope.com/...0C/_/7mm_Cordelettes
Nylon is better for cordelettes than the so-called high-strength cords, and 7mm is all that is needed for ordinary climbing applications.
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Rudmin
Sep 27, 2010, 3:39 PM
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Do you mean tying the ends together with a backed up EDK? Whatever you are doing, if you have to keep the knot from rolling, it is probably the wrong knot for making a cordalette with.
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climbingaggie03
Sep 27, 2010, 3:45 PM
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I guess that's another way of putting it, it's the same as when you tie you ropes together with an EDK to rappell, only on the cordelette. I know it's unconventional, but most of the guys that I know that work for RMI use it. I've used it for like 4 years and I love it.
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acorneau
Sep 27, 2010, 4:41 PM
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One more vote for 7mm cord. I use ~17' of cord tied to make an 8' loop (12" are used for knots and tail), that way I can double it and it's the same length as a 4' sling.
Comes in handy sometimes.
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chilli
Sep 27, 2010, 5:13 PM
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tedman wrote: 20 ft cord? so a 10 foot loop? or are you talking 40 feet looped into a 20 foot cord? If its 20 ft total, then really the 8' mammut is really a 16 foot cord...always got confused on how they measured slings...
yes 20ft of cord to a 10ft loop. i guess it would have been more clearly stated had i said that. when i buy 7mm cord, i usually get ~30ft, cut out a few feet for some prussik loops (shoulder length closed loop), and keep the rest as the cordalette, giving me about 22ft of cord to an 11ft closed loop (or somewhere thereabouts last time i checked).
anyway, point being i like 7mm nylon cord more than all the fancy spectra stuff, but i'm not ragging on you if your system works for you.
and yes, bartacked slings are measured closed.
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Colinhoglund
Sep 27, 2010, 5:47 PM
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One more vote for 7mm nylon cord.
Every guide I have ever talked to (about 4) has said 7mm is the go to size. Any thicker and it wont work *well* for rescue as a prusic for ascending ect. Any thinner and it wont have the strength needed for a solid anchor. I have a 7mm x 5m cord with me for anything but sport cragging.
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bandycoot
Sep 27, 2010, 6:57 PM
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rgold wrote: I'm not a cordelette fan, but I do have some I use for certain occasions. I've had some from various manufacturers, and I think the 7mm Sterling Rope cordelettes are the best because, at least in my experience, they are the most flexible. http://www.sterlingrope.com/...0C/_/7mm_Cordelettes Nylon is better for cordelettes than the so-called high-strength cords, and 7mm is all that is needed for ordinary climbing applications.
I agree. 7mm nylon is the best for cordelette since you can cut it and leave it to bail or use as prussiks, but I never use cordelette anymore. I view it as a logical progression in learning to build anchors, but one to move away from once you've learned to do more with less.
Josh
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summerprophet
Sep 27, 2010, 7:14 PM
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eric,
If you are finding your cordalette too stiff, then you likely have spectra/dynema/techcord or any number of other variations of the same theme.
These designer cords should NOT be used for prussiks, as they do not handle heat very well at all.
If you want the ability to clip each end of the cordalette to a bolt (2 pt anchor) you will need 8mm minimum.
If you want to do the same thing with three points you will need 7mm minimum (or 5.5mm tech cord).
If you want to tie it in a loop and leave it that way, you can get by with 6mm as long as you are using 2 pt anchors or better.
I personally use 7mm x 24' (not looped). It works for pretty much anything I do.
If you are concerned about prussiks, 8mm works well on 11mm ropes, 7mm on 10mm ropes, 6 on 9 ect ect. The general rule is a prussik works well grabbing a rope 1.5 times its own diameter.
Personally I am waiting for the 3mm tech cord arriving soon. Stronger than 6mm, and ready to terrify my partners.
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bearbreeder
Sep 27, 2010, 7:23 PM
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i dont use 7mm cord anymore ... i use 8mm cord or rope in a snake cord config ... or a 2.5m nylon sling ... or full strength webbing
7mm cord is not full strength unless doubled ... which is a pain for tree and rock belays
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