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unga123
Sep 29, 2010, 9:33 PM
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Ok, So I'm buying used gear from someone. I am young so i can't afford to buy new stuff. What should i look for in the gear to make sure I'm not getting ripped off. Thanks alot.
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bill413
Sep 29, 2010, 10:45 PM
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unga123 wrote: Ok, So I'm buying used gear from someone. I am young so i can't afford to buy new stuff. What should i look for in the gear to make sure I'm not getting ripped off. Thanks alot.
Personal opinion:
I won't buy used soft goods (harness, slings, rope) unless I personally know the seller & the equipment.
Hard goods (metal) should be ok.
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Rudmin
Sep 29, 2010, 10:49 PM
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As for not getting ripped off. A rule of thumb is anything used is worth %60 what it cost new. Obviously the condition and the age factor in as well.
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billcoe_
Sep 29, 2010, 11:12 PM
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unga123 wrote: Ok, So I'm buying used gear from someone. I am young so i can't afford to buy new stuff. What should i look for in the gear to make sure I'm not getting ripped off. Thanks alot.
If you want to avoid being ripped off: just don't pay too much.
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Colinhoglund
Sep 30, 2010, 12:31 AM
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How to not get ripped off? I'll give you a formula.
N-U=P, If P<L you got ripped off.
N - new price
U - used price
L - YOUR LIFE
In all seriousness, by new soft goods (harness, slings, helmets etc), you might live longer
(This post was edited by Colinhoglund on Sep 30, 2010, 12:32 AM)
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unga123
Sep 30, 2010, 2:27 AM
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Everyone, Thanks so much for the information! I understand that buying soft stuff new is optimal, but if i had to buy soft gear used, what stuff should i be aware about so that i don't buy gear that will fail on me, other than the obvious wear/tear.
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garythenuke
Sep 30, 2010, 2:59 AM
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In my opinion stay away from used ropes and harnesses. The harness may be okay if you can examine it and there is no UV damage... Like it was a gym harness.
I really feel your pain on this. There is just too much risk to trust you life to used gear that is keeping you off the ground.
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west_by_god_virginia
Sep 30, 2010, 3:01 AM
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helmets are not soft goods. i would buy a used ecrin rock anyday...
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jbro_135
Sep 30, 2010, 11:44 AM
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unga123 wrote: Everyone, Thanks so much for the information! I understand that buying soft stuff new is optimal, but if i had to buy soft gear used, what stuff should i be aware about so that i don't buy gear that will fail on me, other than the obvious wear/tear.
If you or someone you trust doesn't know the history of the gear then you are risking your life. Age, UV damage, abrasion and general wear are all things you should take into account, but the absence of these factors doesn't guarantee that the gear is safe to use. You're going to die.
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j_ung
Sep 30, 2010, 12:55 PM
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jbro_135 wrote: unga123 wrote: Everyone, Thanks so much for the information! I understand that buying soft stuff new is optimal, but if i had to buy soft gear used, what stuff should i be aware about so that i don't buy gear that will fail on me, other than the obvious wear/tear. If you or someone you trust doesn't know the history of the gear then you are risking your life. Age, UV damage, chemical exposure, abrasion and general wear are all things you should take into account, but the absence of these factors doesn't guarantee that the gear is safe to use. You're going to die.
Added one.
OP, do you know the person selling the gear well? If not, I don't think you're in a good spot here. Save money.
(This post was edited by j_ung on Sep 30, 2010, 12:56 PM)
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jbro_135
Sep 30, 2010, 1:01 PM
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j_ung wrote: jbro_135 wrote: unga123 wrote: Everyone, Thanks so much for the information! I understand that buying soft stuff new is optimal, but if i had to buy soft gear used, what stuff should i be aware about so that i don't buy gear that will fail on me, other than the obvious wear/tear. If you or someone you trust doesn't know the history of the gear then you are risking your life. Age, UV damage, chemical exposure, abrasion and general wear are all things you should take into account, but the absence of these factors doesn't guarantee that the gear is safe to use. You're going to die. Added one. OP, do you know the person selling the gear well? If not, I don't think you're in a good spot here. Save money.
I left that out because there's really no way to inspect for it, it's one of the reasons the OP is going to die
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error
Sep 30, 2010, 10:57 PM
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jbro_135 wrote: I left that out because there's really no way to inspect for it, it's one of the reasons the OP is going to die
We are all going to die at some point. Suck it up.
I would not buy used soft gear though.
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mach2
Oct 1, 2010, 1:52 AM
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I'll be the one to say that it's quite difficult to explain via the interweb, just what soft goods feel and look like after they are beyond their lifespan. Harnesses, Ropes, and webbing/cord items might just be worth the extra couple bucks. Yes being young limits the income, but the bonus is that Adults are often more likely to take you out on their gear if you show a bona fide interest in climbing.
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Neel
Oct 1, 2010, 2:17 AM
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mach2 wrote: Yes being young limits the income, but the bonus is that Adults are often more likely to take you out on their gear if you show a bona fide interest in climbing.
I've found that every time i went "cheap" on gear, I always ended up replacing it, or wanting to replace it, with better stuff a short while later. May as well save up and get the stuff you really want as you can afford it + if you have someone that you climb with regularly, split the costs... on person buys draws, one person buys rope, etc. and as you have a bit more spare cash, fill in the gaps.
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Colinhoglund
Oct 1, 2010, 4:26 AM
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Neel wrote: mach2 wrote: Yes being young limits the income, but the bonus is that Adults are often more likely to take you out on their gear if you show a bona fide interest in climbing. I've found that every time i went "cheap" on gear, I always ended up replacing it, or wanting to replace it, with better stuff a short while later. May as well save up and get the stuff you really want as you can afford it + if you have someone that you climb with regularly, split the costs... on person buys draws, one person buys rope, etc. and as you have a bit more spare cash, fill in the gaps.
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Johnny_Fang
Oct 1, 2010, 4:39 AM
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jbro_135 wrote: j_ung wrote: jbro_135 wrote: unga123 wrote: Everyone, Thanks so much for the information! I understand that buying soft stuff new is optimal, but if i had to buy soft gear used, what stuff should i be aware about so that i don't buy gear that will fail on me, other than the obvious wear/tear. If you or someone you trust doesn't know the history of the gear then you are risking your life. Age, UV damage, chemical exposure, abrasion and general wear are all things you should take into account, but the absence of these factors doesn't guarantee that the gear is safe to use. You're going to die. Added one. OP, do you know the person selling the gear well? If not, I don't think you're in a good spot here. Save money. I left that out because there's really no way to inspect for it, it's one of the reasons the OP is going to die
just curious if anyone can think of a single broken soft good that happened on purchased used gear?
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mach2
Oct 1, 2010, 5:19 AM
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Didn't black diamond do tests on old weathered slings, and find failure rates quite a bit lower than their rated strength. There was a rope break at a gym some years back supposedly due to chemical exposure. Tod Skinner's harness also comes to mind of worn equipment failing.
While this gear wasn't used, there could be gear out there like this stuff, and the $20 difference between new and used doesn't seem worth it.
It is entirely possible that he could get used gear and be fine, but sometimes it only takes one bad sling to permanently ruin your day.
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bill413
Oct 1, 2010, 2:16 PM
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Also, there was a Rock & Ice / Arctyrex testing of harnesses that showed many a used harness was not as strong as it should be. It was a caution to people who loan out their old harnesses. (If you won't use it anymore...)
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markc
Oct 1, 2010, 3:43 PM
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jbro_135 wrote: j_ung wrote: jbro_135 wrote: unga123 wrote: Everyone, Thanks so much for the information! I understand that buying soft stuff new is optimal, but if i had to buy soft gear used, what stuff should i be aware about so that i don't buy gear that will fail on me, other than the obvious wear/tear. If you or someone you trust doesn't know the history of the gear then you are risking your life. Age, UV damage, chemical exposure, abrasion and general wear are all things you should take into account, but the absence of these factors doesn't guarantee that the gear is safe to use. You're going to die. Added one. OP, do you know the person selling the gear well? If not, I don't think you're in a good spot here. Save money. I left that out because there's really no way to inspect for it, it's one of the reasons the OP is going to die
Understood, but that's the primary reason so many of us are wary of buying used softworks from an unknown source. Chocks, biners, cams (aside from the slings) and other goods can be inspected to see if they're in proper working order. You can check cables for tweaks, gates and cams for smooth action, etc.
You can inspect a rope for core shots, soft spots, and general wear. There's no way to know if it's been exposed to a harmful chemical. If you're dealing with Ebay, you might be buying gear from someone who wasn't the initial owner and who may not have any climbing experience. I'd stick to face to face interactions and hardware. Look for deals and save your nickels for slings, harness, and a rope.
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bill413
Oct 1, 2010, 4:36 PM
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One other thought about rope on Ebay: I can go to a local army surplus and buy ropes that look like climbing ropes, but with no assurance that they are. Certainly they are cheaper there...but that doesn't mean I'd buy them.
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kennoyce
Nov 16, 2010, 3:40 PM
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Johnny_Fang wrote: jbro_135 wrote: j_ung wrote: jbro_135 wrote: unga123 wrote: Everyone, Thanks so much for the information! I understand that buying soft stuff new is optimal, but if i had to buy soft gear used, what stuff should i be aware about so that i don't buy gear that will fail on me, other than the obvious wear/tear. If you or someone you trust doesn't know the history of the gear then you are risking your life. Age, UV damage, chemical exposure, abrasion and general wear are all things you should take into account, but the absence of these factors doesn't guarantee that the gear is safe to use. You're going to die. Added one. OP, do you know the person selling the gear well? If not, I don't think you're in a good spot here. Save money. I left that out because there's really no way to inspect for it, it's one of the reasons the OP is going to die just curious if anyone can think of a single broken soft good that happened on purchased used gear?
Here's one. A used tricam had the sling rip at the roll pin. The reason for failure is undetermined but it looks like the sling may have had unseen chemical damage at the spot where it failed.
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