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Gmburns2000
Oct 1, 2010, 11:25 PM
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hafilax wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: camhead wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Most worthless piece of gear in general: stick clip. Sigh. Burnsie, you don't know what you're talking about. I have a regularly use a stickclip. And I don't think we need to debate about my trad/soloing/r/x/headspace abilities, either, so don't even go there. then why use it? Why place gear?
feels a lot different to me. generally speaking, if I don't feel comfortable putting in that first piece because of its location (or in this case, clipping the first draw) then I will very likely not lead it.
I totally get and understand the first bolt being high for the second bolt concept, but I'd still rather either walk away or clip the first bolt as I climb.
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hafilax
Oct 1, 2010, 11:55 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: hafilax wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: camhead wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Most worthless piece of gear in general: stick clip. Sigh. Burnsie, you don't know what you're talking about. I have a regularly use a stickclip. And I don't think we need to debate about my trad/soloing/r/x/headspace abilities, either, so don't even go there. then why use it? Why place gear? feels a lot different to me. generally speaking, if I don't feel comfortable putting in that first piece because of its location (or in this case, clipping the first draw) then I will very likely not lead it. I totally get and understand the first bolt being high for the second bolt concept, but I'd still rather either walk away or clip the first bolt as I climb.
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johnwesely
Oct 2, 2010, 12:01 AM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: Most worthless piece of gear I've seen specifically on High E in the 'Gunks: Big Bros (seriously, wtf?)
Good times.
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Gmburns2000
Oct 2, 2010, 12:10 AM
Post #30 of 225
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hafilax wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: hafilax wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: camhead wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Most worthless piece of gear in general: stick clip. Sigh. Burnsie, you don't know what you're talking about. I have a regularly use a stickclip. And I don't think we need to debate about my trad/soloing/r/x/headspace abilities, either, so don't even go there. then why use it? Why place gear? feels a lot different to me. generally speaking, if I don't feel comfortable putting in that first piece because of its location (or in this case, clipping the first draw) then I will very likely not lead it. I totally get and understand the first bolt being high for the second bolt concept, but I'd still rather either walk away or clip the first bolt as I climb. Why would you let a question of style keep you from climbing a good route?
seriously, do I need to answer this, particularly in this thread?
OK, you wanted thread drift, here we go with the forever basic question that gets asked about a dozen times per year: why do you climb?
I climb for me. I don't climb for anyone else, even though I will gladly lend my services to my partner so that (s)he can also climb for him/herself. I try very hard to make climbing satisfying for me, and I get disappointed when I don't succeed in reaching that goal. Using a stick clip is very unsatisfying to me. Therefore, for me, which, as you may note is consistently how everyone else has responded to the question at hand, a stick clip is a worthless piece of gear.
Someone else noted tri-cams. I couldn't disagree more, but I assume, based on my answer above, that they have a reason for saying that, and that's because they climb for themselves, too, and that tri-cams don't factor into their climbing-satisfaction equation, so to speak.
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Gmburns2000
Oct 2, 2010, 12:11 AM
Post #31 of 225
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johnwesely wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Most worthless piece of gear I've seen specifically on High E in the 'Gunks: Big Bros (seriously, wtf?) Good times.
she was kinda sexy though.
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bill413
Oct 2, 2010, 12:40 AM
Post #32 of 225
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Gmburns2000 wrote: hafilax wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: camhead wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Most worthless piece of gear in general: stick clip. Sigh. Burnsie, you don't know what you're talking about. I have a regularly use a stickclip. And I don't think we need to debate about my trad/soloing/r/x/headspace abilities, either, so don't even go there. then why use it? Why place gear? feels a lot different to me. generally speaking, if I don't feel comfortable putting in that first piece because of its location (or in this case, clipping the first draw) then I will very likely not lead it. I totally get and understand the first bolt being high for the second bolt concept, but I'd still rather either walk away or clip the first bolt as I climb.
Why not respect the first ascensionists/bolters who designed the route to use a stick?
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johnwesely
Oct 2, 2010, 1:41 AM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: johnwesely wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Most worthless piece of gear I've seen specifically on High E in the 'Gunks: Big Bros (seriously, wtf?) Good times. she was kinda sexy though.
She was a he Greg.
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ensonik
Oct 2, 2010, 3:58 AM
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johnwesely wrote: She was a he Greg.
Awkward.
More to the point : Rap rings at Rumney.
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giggly
Oct 2, 2010, 4:49 AM
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carabiners
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Gmburns2000
Oct 2, 2010, 10:17 AM
Post #37 of 225
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johnwesely wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: johnwesely wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Most worthless piece of gear I've seen specifically on High E in the 'Gunks: Big Bros (seriously, wtf?) Good times. she was kinda sexy though. She was a he Greg.
um, there were three of them, and the one with the big bros hanging off her harness was a she.
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Gmburns2000
Oct 2, 2010, 10:17 AM
Post #38 of 225
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bill413 wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: hafilax wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: camhead wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Most worthless piece of gear in general: stick clip. Sigh. Burnsie, you don't know what you're talking about. I have a regularly use a stickclip. And I don't think we need to debate about my trad/soloing/r/x/headspace abilities, either, so don't even go there. then why use it? Why place gear? feels a lot different to me. generally speaking, if I don't feel comfortable putting in that first piece because of its location (or in this case, clipping the first draw) then I will very likely not lead it. I totally get and understand the first bolt being high for the second bolt concept, but I'd still rather either walk away or clip the first bolt as I climb. Why not respect the first ascensionists/bolters who designed the route to use a stick?
heh.
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USnavy
Oct 2, 2010, 11:41 AM
Post #39 of 225
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gblauer wrote: metollius rope hook
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johnwesely
Oct 2, 2010, 12:32 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: johnwesely wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: johnwesely wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Most worthless piece of gear I've seen specifically on High E in the 'Gunks: Big Bros (seriously, wtf?) Good times. she was kinda sexy though. She was a he Greg. um, there were three of them, and the one with the big bros hanging off her harness was a she.
I am just yanking your chain.
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moose_droppings
Oct 2, 2010, 4:51 PM
Post #41 of 225
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johnwesely wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: johnwesely wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: johnwesely wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Most worthless piece of gear I've seen specifically on High E in the 'Gunks: Big Bros (seriously, wtf?) Good times. she was kinda sexy though. She was a he Greg. um, there were three of them, and the one with the big bros hanging off her harness was a she. I am just yanking your chain.
Five foot penalty slack for chain yanking to johnwesely.
Ten foot penalty slack for not getting it to Gmburns2000.
Net loss of 5 foot penalty slack to Gmburns2000
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marc801
Oct 2, 2010, 4:52 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: I totally get and understand the first bolt being high for the second bolt concept, but I'd still rather either walk away or clip the first bolt as I climb.
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uni_jim
Oct 2, 2010, 5:18 PM
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The only route I have ever used a stick clip on was my own.
The thing is, it was not so much a route as a one bolt "stick clip problem." If the landing didn't suck so bad it would have been a cool highball, but it was bad so I sunk one bolt. You stick clip it, climb through the crux moves on TR, and then move above the bolt on 5.9 to top out and walk off.
too short to bolt like a sport climb, and a top rope setup puts the rope over an abrasive edge, so this seemed like the best way to protect the climb.
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swoopee
Oct 3, 2010, 2:23 AM
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johnwesely wrote: swoopee wrote: SMC Camlocks.  Yes. Why do you have them?
I had a few until recently. I haven't seen them since I moved but they are probably around here somewhere.
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johnwesely
Oct 3, 2010, 2:56 AM
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swoopee wrote: johnwesely wrote: swoopee wrote: SMC Camlocks. Yes. Why do you have them? I had a few until recently. I haven't seen them since I moved but they are probably around here somewhere.
I have the entire set, including the wired one.
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jakedatc
Oct 3, 2010, 2:19 PM
Post #46 of 225
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hafilax wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: hafilax wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: camhead wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Most worthless piece of gear in general: stick clip. Sigh. Burnsie, you don't know what you're talking about. I have a regularly use a stickclip. And I don't think we need to debate about my trad/soloing/r/x/headspace abilities, either, so don't even go there. then why use it? Why place gear? feels a lot different to me. generally speaking, if I don't feel comfortable putting in that first piece because of its location (or in this case, clipping the first draw) then I will very likely not lead it. I totally get and understand the first bolt being high for the second bolt concept, but I'd still rather either walk away or clip the first bolt as I climb. Why would you let a question of style keep you from climbing a good route?
He has quite a long list of reasons why he won't try hard...ever. among others are too hot, too cold, too scared, too hard, too steep, too crimpy, too slopey,..........
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bill413
Oct 3, 2010, 3:25 PM
Post #47 of 225
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jakedatc wrote: hafilax wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: hafilax wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: camhead wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Most worthless piece of gear in general: stick clip. Sigh. Burnsie, you don't know what you're talking about. I have a regularly use a stickclip. And I don't think we need to debate about my trad/soloing/r/x/headspace abilities, either, so don't even go there. then why use it? Why place gear? feels a lot different to me. generally speaking, if I don't feel comfortable putting in that first piece because of its location (or in this case, clipping the first draw) then I will very likely not lead it. I totally get and understand the first bolt being high for the second bolt concept, but I'd still rather either walk away or clip the first bolt as I climb. Why would you let a question of style keep you from climbing a good route? He has quite a long list of reasons why he won't try hard...ever. among others are too hot, too cold, too scared, too hard, too steep, too crimpy, too slopey,..........
....It's a high gravity day.
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milesenoell
Oct 3, 2010, 4:07 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: Most worthless piece of gear in general: stick clip.
Have fun at Smith.
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Gmburns2000
Oct 4, 2010, 1:06 PM
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marc801 wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: I totally get and understand the first bolt being high for the second bolt concept, but I'd still rather either walk away or clip the first bolt as I climb. This makes zero sense. It's like saying you wouldn't want to do the Nose because it has a couple of pendulums.
uh, yeah, because single pitch sport climbs and classic big walls are the same thing. there are plenty of the prior in this world and not very many of the latter. sometimes in life one takes what one can get. if and when I'm ever ready to take on the Nose, I'll pendulum. single pitch sport climbs? simply not worth it.
there are very, very, very few absolutes in life. activism is a matter of convenience. if anyone says any different then they're full of shit.
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Gmburns2000
Oct 4, 2010, 1:09 PM
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jakedatc wrote: hafilax wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: hafilax wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: camhead wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Most worthless piece of gear in general: stick clip. Sigh. Burnsie, you don't know what you're talking about. I have a regularly use a stickclip. And I don't think we need to debate about my trad/soloing/r/x/headspace abilities, either, so don't even go there. then why use it? Why place gear? feels a lot different to me. generally speaking, if I don't feel comfortable putting in that first piece because of its location (or in this case, clipping the first draw) then I will very likely not lead it. I totally get and understand the first bolt being high for the second bolt concept, but I'd still rather either walk away or clip the first bolt as I climb. Why would you let a question of style keep you from climbing a good route? He has quite a long list of reasons why he won't try hard...ever. among others are too hot, too cold, too scared, too hard, too steep, too crimpy, too slopey,..........
yeah, yeah Jake you climb hard. we know how hard you climb. you climb FUCKING HARD. but knowing how hard of a climber you are, how big your sack is, and how little I am compared to you, I still won't stick clip because I think its stupid.
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