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go_dyno
Oct 3, 2010, 3:38 AM
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Registered: May 8, 2005
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Howdy Girls
I'm a good brother-n-law introducing my brother & sis-n-law to rock climbing. My sis is a strong athlete and powerful long distance runner. We are in Austin, TX and will be climbing around Austin and Enchanted Rock (slab). I am a die hard La Sportiva guy but open to any suggestions for shoes for her. I was thinking LS Nagos or Mythos? Beginner so I want them to be comfortable enough to keep her climbing during the learning curve. Any recommendations? Thanks
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smallclimber
Oct 3, 2010, 11:46 PM
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Could they both rent some the first time they climb - just to see if they take to it or not? difficult to believe but there are some people who do not enjoy climbing.....
I love my La Sportiva Mythos, though they are not the cheapest shoes for a beginner.
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acorneau
Oct 4, 2010, 1:51 AM
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Not a girl, but...
First thought, get the shoes that fit the best.
Austin is limestone, very polished and smooth. Soft rubber will perform better than harder rubbers.
Erock is coarse granite, large crystals, and has plenty of cracks and face climbs besides the slab stuff. Either kind of rubber seem to do well here.
Good luck with your shoe search.
[edit for spelling]
(This post was edited by acorneau on Oct 4, 2010, 2:24 PM)
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go_dyno
Oct 4, 2010, 3:25 AM
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Just moved back to TX been climbing only ice for the last 10 yrs and looking forward to the rock and my sis is fired up about it and has the aptitude. Just figured I'd get the low down on a few of the latest girls shoes to point her in that direction. The rock shoe choices have increased a bit in the last 10 years and I'm behind the curve and know nothing about the gals slippers. If some one might give me 4-5 shoes that they feel perform well here that are not too severe on noobie feet I'd appreciate it. Price isn't a problem and renting... I'm confident she and her husband will love it.
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justroberto
Oct 4, 2010, 4:12 PM
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Seriously, just buy cheap ones in a comfortable size for them. $130 mythos + erock granite + beginner climber = money down the drain. they'll shred them so fast.
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go_dyno
Oct 4, 2010, 4:16 PM
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So, far no one has answered my question. I do not need advice on how to deal with a rookie climber. I am asking about specific shoes. If any one has that knowledge I would appreciate it.
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wonderwoman
Oct 4, 2010, 5:03 PM
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Wide toe box, small heal: Anything Velcro from Five-Ten or Evolv has worked well for me.
Skinny feet: LaSportiva Mythos (I can't fit my fat feet into them).
Also, if you can, have her try them on because sizing does vary. If not, at least ask her what shape her foot is and bring that info with you to ask the sales clerk.
This was my first climbing shoe:
http://fiveten.com/...wear-detail/66-spire
Back in the day, they were turquoise with florescent green laces. Quite lovely!
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go_dyno
Oct 4, 2010, 6:52 PM
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Thanks! I will take her to try some on. I just know that some shoes have idiosyncracies that you do not find out until a week or 2 after wearing them. Like stitching that rubs on the top of toes, etc. I'm not familiar with EVOLV, but will look into them when we go to the stores.
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justroberto
Oct 4, 2010, 11:18 PM
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Registered: Feb 21, 2006
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In Austin, the Whole Earth Provision Co is the locally-owned place with climbing shoes, though the selection is thin. REI downtown has a pretty limited selection, but they do carry a couple of models of la sportivas and evolvs, which is probably why half the kiddies in austin are sporting the evolv evos. The REI in the Arboretum has, by far, the best selection of shoes (and the best deals, for some reason).
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go_dyno
Oct 4, 2010, 11:21 PM
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Thanks!
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