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Dip
Oct 19, 2010, 7:17 PM
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In reply to: but I also just did Modern Times the other day and that blew the doors of CC for me. CC is still right up there, but wow, what a finish on MT...just fucking wow.
sonofabitch. That thing has been on my todo list all summer, and i have yet to get on it. I want it to be on my funnest route list too!
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Gmburns2000
Oct 19, 2010, 7:20 PM
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Dip wrote: In reply to: but I also just did Modern Times the other day and that blew the doors of CC for me. CC is still right up there, but wow, what a finish on MT...just fucking wow. sonofabitch. That thing has been on my todo list all summer, and i have yet to get on it. I want it to be on my funnest route list too!
just go do it. make sure you have a partner who can either follow or prussic, though. there was a party in front of us where the second fell and she didn't know how to prussic. thankfully there were some other folks at the top waiting to get some pics of the route who were able to lower and show her how to do it. but yeah, you won't regret it.
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markcarlson
Oct 19, 2010, 8:47 PM
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Sport?
Despite my limited experience, I still have a few top contenders for "funnest route" I've done:
Logan's Run, Skaha, BC
Zen Arcade, Lake Louise, AB
Pushing 40, Bataan, AB
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Dip
Oct 19, 2010, 10:32 PM
Post #29 of 63
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In reply to: just go do it
Four hours away, sadly. I am hoping to get up there in November though, provided there's a weekend where it's at least 45 degrees.
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Gmburns2000
Oct 19, 2010, 11:58 PM
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Dip wrote: In reply to: just go do it Four hours away, sadly. I am hoping to get up there in November though, provided there's a weekend where it's at least 45 degrees.
it's four hours from boston, too, and the boston crew is there nearly every weekend.
btw - I'm in State College as I write this, which was about a four hour drive. odd coincidence?
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jakedatc
Oct 20, 2010, 1:25 AM
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RRG- Gettin' lucky in Kentucky or Defy the laws of tradition.
Rumney - Orangahang.. similar to greg's MT story.. the feeling of holy shit after the crux was awesome.
Gunks- Ants line and Bonnies
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Dip
Oct 20, 2010, 2:59 AM
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yes, and i'd be there every weekend too, but i have an 18 month old and mama doesn't climb, so i'm trying the whole "balance" in my life thing. I'd like to say i'll be able to get out there more as he gets older, but i'm sure the activities and all that good stuff will pick up, so it looks like i'm a once a monther. You doing any climbing in State College? Elk and Hunters are kinda cool...
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minibiter
Oct 20, 2010, 3:13 AM
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Oh yeah - Roadside Attraction was awesome. Of the routes I've been on at the RRG it's probably my favorite. Too Many Puppies would probably be second.
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Gmburns2000
Oct 20, 2010, 12:24 PM
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Dip wrote: yes, and i'd be there every weekend too, but i have an 18 month old and mama doesn't climb, so i'm trying the whole "balance" in my life thing. I'd like to say i'll be able to get out there more as he gets older, but i'm sure the activities and all that good stuff will pick up, so it looks like i'm a once a monther. You doing any climbing in State College? Elk and Hunters are kinda cool...
ah yeah, that makes more sense. congrats on fatherhood and good luck with it.
I'm only staying the night here in PA on the way to the New and Red.
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Dip
Oct 20, 2010, 12:32 PM
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Thanks and have fun down there. If you've never done it, Two Bag Face at Fern Buttress in the new is a very fun, very gunks like pitch with a rewarding view throughout most of the climb. I highly recomend it.
(This post was edited by Dip on Oct 20, 2010, 12:39 PM)
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shimanilami
Oct 20, 2010, 3:48 PM
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It's hard to choose a single funnest route, but these rank high on my list:
AC Devil Dog (Grotto, CA)
OZ - Hobbit Book linkup (Tuolemne)
Serenity Crack - Sons of Yesterday linkup (Yosemite)
Haystack (Lovers Leap)
These are all pretty local for me, and I'll do them virtually every chance I get.
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xtrmecat
Oct 20, 2010, 3:52 PM
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climbingaggie03 wrote: the grack center in yosemite. 5.6 3 pitches slabby crack fist to fingers.
I was testing out a new partner, so we did the Grack and it was a fun route. But I would have to say Snake Dike was more than twice the fun due to you could move so fast inimpeded by placements and pro. It just was fun to move until it became aerobic exercise. Gotta reel in the rope fast too.
Never done RA though, but I have been told it is close.
NE buttress of Middle Cathedral (10c) I think. Started late on a semi rainy day, two parties moving fast and light, split up mid route. My team did the classic chimney, was slower, and it was a blast. Raps in the dark in the snow and chossy gully just added to the fun.
Just did the Durrance again about two weeks ago at DT with a couple newer friends, and it is still a fun and classic line. Funny how the funner lines seem to be easier grades!
So many fun lines, so short a life to get them done. Oh yea, don't forget the Robbins classic, Nutcracker. I usually try out new partners on it, and it just seems to be funner every time.
Burly Bob
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dingus
Oct 20, 2010, 3:55 PM
Post #38 of 63
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shimanilami wrote: It's hard to choose a single funnest route, but these rank high on my list: AC Devil Dog (Grotto, CA) OZ - Hobbit Book linkup (Tuolemne) Serenity Crack - Sons of Yesterday linkup (Yosemite) Haystack (Lovers Leap) These are all pretty local for me, and I'll do them virtually every chance I get.
I certainly didn't expect to see AC Devil Dog on this list Shimi! But it is a great route, bet I've done it 50 times! (seriously)
Serenity / Sons definitely ranks way up there on my all time FUN list, as does Haystack.
Never done Oz., for some reason.
DMT
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shimanilami
Oct 20, 2010, 4:18 PM
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I get giddy just thinking about those climbs! Man, I want to go right now!
What about you, Dingus? You're from the area, right? What are your favorites?
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spikeddem
Oct 20, 2010, 5:38 PM
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Crackattack (10a/b) at Tennessee Wall. It's 90' of fun and varied climbing!
===Beta Spoilers===
===Beta Spoilers===
===Beta Spoilers===
It starts out with easy, fun climbing on what I recall being slightly chossy rock that overhangs maybe 10 degrees, but has huge buckets. After that initial ten feet, there's a transition into the crack climbing. Having an aresenal of available crack technique will help one get through this section, which, I seem to recall being the crux. Adding a slight mental challenge to the crux, if one looks up he or she is presented with a seriously roofy section. This roof section begins immediately after a pretty good rest. The climbing through this part is reminiscent of the hauling in Sunny and Steep. It's likely near the same angle, but it's probably only like a body length and a half or two in length.
The part that made it so memorable: Placing a blue camalot in the middle of this roof--which is kind of cut by a skinny dihedral--with a heel-toe cammed left foot heel hook and a bomber right hand, both at the same height, with my right leg dangling in the exposure beneath me.
This isn't a very good picture of the route at all, but it's all I could find on the internet. The photographer is at the end of a different route.
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dingus
Oct 20, 2010, 6:28 PM
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shimanilami wrote: I get giddy just thinking about those climbs! Man, I want to go right now! What about you, Dingus? You're from the area, right? What are your favorites?
Really hard for me to pick a fave, my tastes change all the time.
If I use the 'vote with my feet' measure I can think of few routes I have climbed more often than that pillar at the Grotto. A couple of the cracks there probably more times though.
Um, Reg Route on Fairview... +20 ascents
Roughly the same for East Butt Middle.
Close to 20 times up West Crack.
I think West Ridge of Conness would rank way high, as would SE Face of Cathedral, though I haven't done either of those 20 times.
My favorites will all be found in the moderate category and usually are very popular routes (for all the same reasons that I like them too, of course)
I like Gemini Cracks on Hammer Dome.
I like Corrugation Corner but that is probably because it was my first mulitpitch in CA and I actually FELL 2nding a pitch hah!
When I start thinking of great dome routes like Charlotte, or Fresno, or Chiquito, or the Eagle BEaks, etc... why my list just keeps expanding.
DMT
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hafilax
Oct 20, 2010, 8:24 PM
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Sport?
Does the pitch coming out of the Monkey's mouth on the Peasant Route of the Monkey Face count if you ignore the bolt ladder to get to it?
Most exposed, airy 5.7 I've ever climbed topped off by a full free hanging 50m rappel to get back down.
Can't say that any other sport climbs have really gotten my attention so far.
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pdpcardsfan
Oct 20, 2010, 10:21 PM
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Dynabolt Gold at the red, try and hit it everytime im in Muir Valley.
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ACJ
Oct 26, 2010, 4:49 PM
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Can't remember the names, but there is a 5.6 and 5.7 at the red river gorge that I just love. Simple plate hauling up to the anchors, nothing hard, just fun.
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MS1
Oct 26, 2010, 4:56 PM
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ACJ wrote: Can't remember the names, but there is a 5.6 and 5.7 at the red river gorge that I just love. Simple plate hauling up to the anchors, nothing hard, just fun.
Not sure about the 5.7 (maybe "The Offering" in Muir Valley?) but the 5.6 you are thinking of is "Eureka" at Global Village. Giant jugs for 90 feet. When I have new climbers with me at the red, it is a mandatory outing. Plus I get to climb Kentucky Pinstripe around the corner, which is always fun.
If you like Eureka you should make sure to get out to the Gallery and try 27 Years of Climbing. Same style but 5.8 (because of the first move and a bulge before the anchors). It's a bona fide hoot.
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olderic
Oct 26, 2010, 5:09 PM
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hafilax wrote: Sport? Does the pitch coming out of the Monkey's mouth on the Peasant Route of the Monkey Face count if you ignore the bolt ladder to get to it? Most exposed, airy 5.7 I've ever climbed topped off by a full free hanging 50m rappel to get back down. Can't say that any other sport climbs have really gotten my attention so far.
How come even in the sport forum most people's favorite routes are trad? But we can always count on Jake....
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jamatt
Oct 26, 2010, 5:27 PM
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j_ung wrote: cragmasterp wrote: good ole Zoo View at Moores Wall, NC is hard to beat for the fun factor. I can certainly say it's my favorite in NC.
Have you done the Maginot Line?
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hafilax
Oct 26, 2010, 7:12 PM
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olderic wrote: hafilax wrote: Sport? Does the pitch coming out of the Monkey's mouth on the Peasant Route of the Monkey Face count if you ignore the bolt ladder to get to it? Most exposed, airy 5.7 I've ever climbed topped off by a full free hanging 50m rappel to get back down. Can't say that any other sport climbs have really gotten my attention so far. How come even in the sport forum most people's favorite routes are trad? But we can always count on Jake....
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justroberto
Oct 26, 2010, 8:19 PM
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I don't know that I'd even be able to narrow it down to just five routes...
Bolted lines off the top of my head:
Baby's Got a Bolt Gun at Summersville Lake
Rico Suave and Flight of the Gumby at the NRG
Will the Wolf Survive? and Snot Girlz at EPC
Mind Games at Iron Gate
Lonesome Dove on the Barton Creek Greenbelt
Stranger Than Friction at Enchanted Rock
DC Comics at Sauratown
Crimson Chrysalis in Red Rocks is almost a sport route
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ACJ
Oct 26, 2010, 11:20 PM
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Eureka for sure. Hmm, the offering... Is that right of Methane Rising (which is amazing, too bad the start is terrible in my opinion)? I like the 5.7 there that trends up and right over the dropoff.
I also really enjoyed autumn, looking forward to andromeda strain the first weekend of november. Roadside attraction, mmm so good.
Safari Jive at looking glass is amazing as well.
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