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finnishsport
Dec 6, 2010, 3:03 PM
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Hey guys, I'm looking to add to my rack but would love feedback on what to get.
Here's what I got so far:
#.3-#2 C4's
#4 Flex Cam
#00, #0, #2 Ultralight TCU's
4-13 BD stoppers
1.5-2.5 Tricams
My rack sees its use at Looking Glass and Rumbling Bald.
Thanks!
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csproul
Dec 6, 2010, 3:30 PM
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For starters...when you are climbing at LG or RB, is there a size that you often find yourself wishing for, or a size you often run out of? Do you use your partner's gear and find yourself really liking some of it? If it were me (and I climb at both places a good amount), I'd want some Mastercams or Aliens up to red, a #3 C4 and some extra stoppers in the small range. Then double up on the middle of the C4 range (0.5-2).
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sbaclimber
Dec 6, 2010, 3:42 PM
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finnishsport wrote: 1.5-2.5 Tricams My rack sees its use at Looking Glass and Rumbling Bald.
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rock_fencer
Dec 6, 2010, 3:44 PM
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i'd add some more finger sized cams (master cams, C3's whatever you fancy), then offset nuts (brass or alloy), then offset cams in the finger sizes again. You could double up on .75-2 C4's or get a #3. People like the tricams so you could go down to the black one, though i personally do not climb with them, and rarely do i say damn i wish i had one here.
Drop the #12 & 13 BD stoppers.
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jbro_135
Dec 6, 2010, 4:55 PM
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It looks like the #1 tcu would be a good fit for your rack
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Colinhoglund
Dec 6, 2010, 5:07 PM
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finnishsport wrote: Hey guys, I'm looking to add to my rack but would love feedback on what to get. Here's what I got so far: #.3-#2 C4's #4 Flex Cam #00, #0, #2 Ultralight TCU's 4-13 BD stoppers 1.5-2.5 Tricams My rack sees its use at Looking Glass and Rumbling Bald. Thanks!
You have a good start, most importantly as a few have said above. "What do you wish you had?" Buy more of those.
My recommendations.
#1 mastercam is an awesome piece, I use it a lot.
#3 BD for when the cracks get bigger.
Pink and Red Tricam (since you already have some I'll assume you like them)
And to start doubling up if you have the Funds . . .
A second set of Bd .75-2, always nice to have.
Mastercams 2-4, I love placing those things.
And Bd Nuts 5-8ish, when I see which of my nuts is most banged up, those are the ones. (Humour as side)
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finnishsport
Dec 6, 2010, 5:09 PM
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Thanks C, I'll work on getting all that.
And I do need the smaller tricams, got the three I have for 10 bucks each from sierratradingpost.com a few weeks back.
But small cams and doubling up in the C4's is probably what I'll focus on for the next little bit.
Thanks everyone
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cornstateclimber
Dec 6, 2010, 5:56 PM
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i seemed to use my small tricams, pink and red , allt at looking glass. i wish i wouldve had doubles on them!
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TarHeelEMT
Dec 6, 2010, 9:34 PM
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I wouldn't personally use the 0 or 00 TCUs as trad gear unless I had no alternatives. They're aid pieces in my mind. A #1 comes in handy at the glass, though.
Double up on .75-2 C4s and consider getting a #3.
Get the pinkie and black tricams.
(This post was edited by TarHeelEMT on Dec 6, 2010, 9:36 PM)
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c4c
Dec 6, 2010, 9:59 PM
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DMM offsets
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jamatt
Dec 6, 2010, 10:17 PM
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there's a couple of key placements in wnc i can think of that need larger pro.
the last move on p1 of sundial crack (lg) needs a #3 C4, and both the piece before and after the crux of frosted flake (rb) take a #3, and a #4 C4 respectively.
if i remember correctly, lost at sea at ship rock has a key #3 C4 as well.
and i always find somewhere to plug my blue #1 tcu, especially the first piece on the cave route (lnv/tr).
good luck and climb safe.
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BirminghamBen
Dec 7, 2010, 3:01 PM
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TarHeelEMT wrote: I wouldn't personally use the 0 or 00 TCUs as trad gear unless I had no alternatives. They're aid pieces in my mind. A #1 comes in handy at the glass, though.
I wholeheartedly disagree...
Especially at Looking Glass...
In granite that good, a quality 0 or 00 will do just fine.
You shouldn't be falling all over your gear anyway, but the smallest cams do hold falls on a regular basis....but do so at your own risk.
On the other hand, TarHeels recommendation for pink and black tricams I couldn;t agree with more.
And those DMM Offsets will come in handy, too.
Also....for NC granite....once that rack gets more fundamentally filled in, some small offset cams come in handy in eyebrows and flaring cracks.
(This post was edited by BirminghamBen on Dec 7, 2010, 3:06 PM)
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johnwesely
Dec 7, 2010, 3:12 PM
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jamatt wrote: the last move on p1 of sundial crack (lg) needs a #3 C4, and both the piece before and after the crux of frosted flake (rb) take a #3, and a #4 C4 respectively.
On Frosted Flake, it is a #2 before the crux and a #3 after.
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finnishsport
Dec 7, 2010, 4:17 PM
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Thanks guys
Yeah like Ben said, I don't place the 0 or 00 with the plan on flailing on them, but they're good if nothing else will fit.
Pink and Black tricams are in the mail as we speak!
I'll look into the offsets as well after I get more small cams and double c4's.
Thanks again, fellas!
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esander4
Dec 7, 2010, 4:57 PM
Post #15 of 18
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finnishsport wrote: Hey guys, I'm looking to add to my rack but would love feedback on what to get. Here's what I got so far: #.3-#2 C4's #4 Flex Cam #00, #0, #2 Ultralight TCU's 4-13 BD stoppers 1.5-2.5 Tricams My rack sees its use at Looking Glass and Rumbling Bald. Thanks!
Do you prefer a U-stem or do you like single stem units better? If you don't mind U-Stem, the Metolius Super Cam for one (and just one!) of your bigger sizes may serve you well. It's got close to the same range as a bigger c4. If not, and you're tight on money, Trango Flexcams are a cheaper alternative to the C4s. They don't have the double axle for the extended range obviously, but they are pretty good cams to me.
If you want something in the really small sizes that's cam-like, I would recommend a Ball Nut. They hold slightly more in a fall than smaller cams. A little harder to place, but definitely worth it and cheaper than small cams
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moose_droppings
Dec 7, 2010, 5:09 PM
Post #16 of 18
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Usually if the #.5 (pink) tricam comes in handy then the #1 (red) has some usefulness too.
I'd fill in that gap in your tricams too.
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finnishsport
Dec 7, 2010, 8:44 PM
Post #17 of 18
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I've only been leading since the beginning of the summer so I haven't really found a preference yet, esander. I have both and I like both fine.
Not too huge a fan of the Flexcam though, just something about the way the lobes retract seems that it has a small range/harder to place.
Haven't looked a ball nuts too much, might have to give them a chance as well.
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